Repainting garden furniture takes cleaning, sanding, priming, and durable exterior paint matched to wood, metal, or plastic.
Fresh color changes patio vibes fast, but lasting results come from method, not speed. This guide gives a clear plan for wood, metal, wicker, and plastic pieces.
Material And Finish Selector
| Material | Prep Focus | Best Finish |
|---|---|---|
| Wood (softwood/hardwood) | Wash, sand to dull, spot prime knots | 100% acrylic exterior paint; satin or semi-gloss |
| Metal (steel/iron) | Scrape loose rust, sand edges, prime bare steel | Rust-inhibiting enamel; gloss for easy wipe-downs |
| Aluminum | De-grease, scuff with fine pad, bonding primer | Acrylic or enamel compatible with primer |
| Plastic/resin | Deep clean, scuff lightly, plastic primer or plastic-bond spray | “Bonds-to-plastic” spray or acrylic over bonding primer |
| Wicker (wood) | Vacuum dust, light sand, prime | Sprayable acrylic; satin for smooth touch |
| Wicker (resin) | Wash with mild soap, rinse, plastic primer | Plastic-rated spray; thin coats |
Repainting Outdoor Furniture: Tools And Setup
Set out a drop cloth, painter’s pyramids or blocks, and a sturdy table or sawhorses. Gather a bucket, sponge, nylon brush, tack cloths, sanding sponges (80/120/220 grit), degreaser, masking film, and nitrile gloves. Keep a quality brush for nooks, a small foam roller for flats, and a spray can or HVLP gun for slats and wicker.
Weather makes or breaks jobs. Aim for a dry day, 10–29°C, with low humidity and light wind. Work in shade to avoid flash-drying. If rain lurks, wait.
Surface Prep That Makes Paint Last
Deep Clean First
Wash every surface. Mix warm water with mild detergent and scrub away sunscreen, pollen, and soil. Rinse well and let parts dry.
Deal With Old Coatings Safely
Test older finishes before scraping or sanding. Finds made before 1978 can carry lead. If the piece may date to that era or you plan dust-heavy work near a pre-1978 structure, use lead-safe methods or hire a certified pro. The EPA RRP work practices explain containment, cleanup, and safe removal steps.
Remove Failing Paint
Lift loose flakes with a carbide scraper. Feather edges with 80–120 grit until the ridge disappears. Rust on steel needs extra care: brush back to sound metal, then wipe with mineral spirits. If pits remain, use a rust converter on small spots, then prime the area.
Sand For Tooth And Smoothness
Sand glossy areas to a dull glow so the new coat can bite. Wood frames like 120 grit followed by 180–220 on touch points. For plastic, a gray scuff pad is safer than coarse paper.
Dust Off And Mask
Vacuum, then wipe with a damp cloth. Finish with a tack cloth. Mask feet and hardware. Raise the piece on blocks so edges wrap clean.
Small Parts And Hardware
Remove knobs, bolts, and caps. Bag fasteners by chair so reassembly is easy. Wire-brush rusted screws, prime them on cardboard, and spray in short bursts. New stainless hardware is a simple upgrade that prevents orange streaks on fresh paint.
Prime The Surface For Grip And Defense
Primer bridges old and new. Bare wood drinks primer; one or two coats lock down tannins. Knots can bleed, so spot prime with shellac. On steel or iron, use a rust-inhibiting primer that seals metal from air and moisture. For plastics and powder-coated frames, a bonding primer for low-energy surfaces gives the topcoat grip. Check labels and match products for compatibility. Many plastic-bond sprays include primer in the can; for tough polypropylene, a dedicated bonding primer still helps grip on armrests and seat pans. On aluminum frames, oxidation looks chalky; scrub it off and prime the bare spots before the color coat.
Choose The Right Paint And Sheen
Acrylic exterior paint resists UV fade and flexes with wood. Enamel adds hardness for metal. Sprays reach curves and wicker; brush and roller shine on flat arms and tabletops. Satin hides touch marks; semi-gloss wipes clean.
Mind the recoat window. Oil-rich enamels often need a longer wait than water-based acrylics. Many spray lines go again within an hour, while brush enamels may want a full day. Here’s one reference: see the Stops Rust enamel sprays TDS for dry and recoat guidance.
Apply Like A Pro: Step-By-Step
1) Set Up
Stage parts on stands, work outside or in a breezy area, and wear eye protection and a respirator suited for paint mist.
2) Prime Evenly
Stir can primers; shake sprays for a full minute. Lay light, even passes, moving side to side, then front to back. Tip off sags while wet.
3) Sand Between Coats
After primer dries, scuff with 220 grit for a smooth base. Wipe clean.
4) Paint In Thin Coats
Load the brush lightly and keep a wet edge. Three thin coats beat one heavy coat.
5) Watch Edges And Feet
Edges wear first. Float a touch more paint on corners and feet. Check underside lips and hidden rails.
6) Let It Cure
Dry to touch and full cure are different. Recoat sooner than you can place cushions or stack chairs. Respect the cure window.
Drying And Recoat Timelines
| Coating | Touch Dry | Recoat/Cure Window |
|---|---|---|
| Acrylic exterior paint (brush/roll) | 1–2 hours | Recoat 4 hours; light use next day; full cure ~30 days |
| Oil/alkyd enamel (brush) | 2–4 hours | Recoat ~24 hours; harder cure over several days |
| Bond-to-plastic spray | 20–25 minutes | Handle ~1 hour; recoat per label, often within 1 hour |
| Rust-inhibiting spray enamel | 1–2 hours | Recoat per TDS; many systems allow same-day recoats |
Numbers vary by brand, temperature, and humidity. Check the product label or data sheet. Spray lines often want either “within 1 hour” or “after 24 hours.”
Weather, Safety, And Setup Details
Plan around shade and breeze. Direct sun speeds skinning and can trap solvents. A tent or canopy helps. Keep dust down with damp ground and a clean drop cloth. If you work near an older building, keep debris contained and clean thoroughly.
Wear gloves when handling solvents. Store oily rags in a metal can with a tight lid. Keep sprays away from flames and pilot lights. Ventilate well.
Color Choices, Touch-Ups, And Care
Pick colors with the setting in mind. Greens blend with plantings. Whites and creams brighten shade. Dark arms hide smudges; light tabletops stay cooler. Buy an extra can for touch-ups so the batch matches later.
Skip harsh bleach on painted wood and metal. Use mild soap and water, then rinse. Add felt pads under chair feet. Store cushions and stack chairs under cover when storms roll in. Small chips on metal should get a quick sand and a rust-stopping dab.
Troubleshooting Common Paint Problems
Peeling Or Poor Adhesion
Cause: glossy base, oil or sunscreen residue, or missed primer on tricky surfaces. Fix: clean again, sand to dull, and use a bonding primer or the metal system suited for the frame.
Blisters Or Wrinkles
Cause: heavy coat, hot sun, or solvent trapped under a skin. Fix: let it cure, sand flat, and repaint in shade with thinner passes.
Rust Stains On Fresh Paint
Cause: hidden rust or missed bare metal. Fix: sand to bright metal, treat pits, prime with a rust inhibitor, and repaint.
Tannin Bleed On Wood
Cause: knots or extractives pushing through. Fix: spot seal knots with shellac primer, then re-prime and repaint.
Rough Feel Or Nibs
Cause: airborne dust or pollen. Fix: de-dust the work zone, scuff sand, and wipe down between coats.
Project Planner: Time And Cost
One chair needs roughly one day of active work across prep, primer, two to three finish coats, and cleanup, plus drying time. A small dining set fits a weekend. Costs vary with tools on hand, but budget for primer, topcoat, sandpaper, masking, and a new brush or two.
Follow labels and tech sheets and your patio set will shrug off weather. Smart prep, the right primer, and patient coats do the heavy lifting, and silky smooth.