Replacing a garden fence takes planning, sturdy posts, and careful alignment; most DIYers finish a typical yard run in one to two days.
If your panels wobble, posts lean, or boards rot, a full swap clears the problems in one go. This guide walks you through planning, tools, safe digging, set-and-plumb posts, panel hanging, and tidy finishes. You’ll see cost ranges, time cues, and fixes for tricky soil. The first table gives a fast snapshot of gear and budget so you can shop once and get it done.
What You’ll Need And Budget At A Glance
Use this overview to plan the trip to the store and set expectations on spend. Prices vary by region and wood species. Pick galvanized or exterior-rated hardware only.
| Category | Items | Typical Range |
|---|---|---|
| Tools | Post hole digger or auger, digging bar, level, tape, string line, clamps, circular saw or hand saw, drill/driver, hammer, wheelbarrow, shovel | $0–$60 rental per day; many homeowners own basics |
| Materials | Posts (wood or metal), panels or rails + pickets, gravel, fast-setting concrete, exterior screws/nails, post caps, preservative for cut ends | $16–$45 per post; $35–$140 per 6–8 ft panel; concrete $6–$9 per bag |
| Safety | Work gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, dust mask when cutting wood, utility locate request before digging | $15–$40 if you need to buy; utility locate is free in the U.S. |
| Time | Layout, dig, set posts day one; hang panels and finish day two | Small yards: 6–10 hours total; larger runs: add 1–2 hours per panel |
Plan The Line, Height, And Style
Walk the boundary and note slopes, tree roots, sprinklers, and gates. Measure the full run and divide by panel length to learn how many posts and panels you’ll need. If terrain pitches up or down, mark a steady top line with a string and choose stepped panels or a racked style that follows grade.
Match post size to wind and height. As a rule, thicker posts last longer and resist movement better. Wood posts are common and easy to trim. Metal posts paired with wood rails extend life in wet areas. When trimming wood, treat fresh cuts with a copper-based preservative per forestry guidance to protect against decay at the cut face (see “Cut, Treat, And Cap” below).
Call Before You Dig And Mark The Layout
In the U.S., request a free utility locate before any hole work. Use your state’s one-call service at 811 to avoid hitting buried lines. Paint post centers once the marks are in place.
Stretch a string line along the planned face of the fence—low and tight—then spray small X marks every panel length for posts. Keep gate openings square and wide enough for lawn gear, bins, or a wheelbarrow.
Replace A Garden Fence: Step-By-Step Plan
1) Remove Old Sections Safely
Pull boards or panels first so you can see the post connection. Back out screws where you can; cut nails with a recip saw and metal-cutting blade. If a post is set in concrete, dig around the footing and lever it out with a digging bar. Heavy chunks move easier if you break them with the bar.
2) Dig Post Holes To Proper Depth
Post footing depth matters more than anything for long-term stability. A common target is one-third of the exposed post height below grade, plus a few extra inches for gravel. In windy spots or sandy soil, go deeper. Make each hole about three times the post width for a good concrete collar.
3) Add Gravel And Set With Concrete
Shovel 6 inches of compacted gravel into the base for drainage. Center the post, check plumb on two sides, then add fast-setting mix and water. Many DIYers use the no-mix method described by concrete makers—pour dry mix, then add water by the bag’s directions. See the setting posts guide for hole sizing and curing tips from a major manufacturer.
Check plumb again after the first pour. Build a simple brace with scrap boards to hold the post while the mix sets. Keep the concrete crowned at the top so rain sheds away from the wood.
4) Set End, Corner, And Gate Posts First
These anchors define the whole run. Set and brace them, then run a string between tops to match height along the line. Use that string to set intermediate posts to a uniform top level. On slopes, step the string at planned panel breaks or switch to a racked panel that stays parallel to grade.
5) Hang Rails And Panels
With posts solid, attach rails to centerlines or hang ready-made panels. Keep a small gap above grade so boards don’t wick water. Use corrosion-resistant screws, not drywall screws. Sight down the run every couple of panels and nudge alignment while fasteners are still few.
6) Square And Install Gates
Use a gate kit or build a stiff frame with diagonal bracing. Hang hinges to a beefy post, shim for swing clearance, and add a latch that pulls the gate tight to a stop block. If the ground rises, set the bottom rail higher to clear bumps.
Cut, Treat, And Cap For Longer Life
Any fresh cut in treated lumber exposes more wood to the weather. The U.S. Forest Service notes that field cuts should be treated with a preservative that matches the treatment type, with copper naphthenate as a common option for end-grain and drilled holes. Apply carefully and let it dry before assembly to keep drips off soil and plants. Reference: guidance citing AWPA M4 for field treatment practices (see the Forest Service’s page on preservative-treated wood care).
Smart Layout Tips That Save Time
Work In Modules
Lay out panels and hardware in order along the line. Pre-drill rails on a flat surface to speed mounting and keep fasteners straight.
Use Clamps As Extra Hands
Spring or bar clamps hold panels while you check level and gaps. This keeps weight off your arms while you sink the first screws.
Check Level At The Rails, Not Just The Tops
Rails tell you if panels will read straight. A small step at the post can hide at the cap; a crooked rail shows from across the yard.
Safety Steps You Shouldn’t Skip
- Utility locate before digging via your state’s 811 service in the U.S.
- Gloves and eye protection during demo and cutting.
- Hearing protection with saws or hammer drills.
- Dust mask when cutting treated lumber; work outdoors.
- Lift heavy concrete chunks with legs, not your back; split large footings into smaller pieces before hauling.
Post Hole Depth And Concrete Mix Guide
Match footing depth and mix amounts to post height and local wind. The table below offers common DIY targets for 4×4 wood posts with 6–8 ft panel spans. Soil and weather shift needs; when in doubt, go deeper and add a wider collar. For technique and bag counts, see the manufacturer’s instructions.
| Exposed Post Height | Hole Depth Target | Fast-Setting Concrete |
|---|---|---|
| 4 ft | 18–24 in + 6 in gravel | 2 bags (50–60 lb each) |
| 6 ft | 24–30 in + 6 in gravel | 2–3 bags |
| 8 ft | 30–36 in + 6 in gravel | 3–4 bags |
Material Choices That Fight Rot And Rust
Posts
Pressure-treated pine is common and affordable. Cedar resists decay and looks great but costs more. Steel posts with wood panels blend strength and style; use rated brackets to tie rails to steel.
Boards And Panels
Cedar pickets take stain well and stay straighter than many pines. Pre-made panels speed the job; site-built pickets fit slopes better.
Fasteners And Hardware
Pick exterior screws or ring-shank nails labeled for treated lumber. Galvanized or coated hardware prevents streaks and rust stains.
Drainage, Soil, And Slope Fixes
Wet Or Clay Soil
Go a size deeper on holes and widen slightly. Add extra gravel for drainage and crown the concrete high so water sheds away from posts.
Sandy Or Loose Soil
Use a tube form to keep the hole from collapsing. Add a wider concrete collar at grade.
Steep Sections
Break the run into short steps with level rails, or use panels built to rack along the slope. Keep the bottom gap even so the line looks tidy.
Finishing Touches That Matter
Stain Or Paint
Wait until wood dries to a stable moisture level; then apply exterior stain or paint. Semi-transparent stain masks color differences and hides fastener heads while still showing grain.
Post Caps
Caps keep end-grain drier and cut down on checking. Simple metal caps look clean and install in minutes.
Ground Gap And Mulch
Leave a small gap under boards so they don’t sit in wet mulch. Pull soil back from concrete to keep water from pooling at the post.
Two-Day Timeline For A Typical Yard
- Day One: Layout, utility locate confirmation, demo, dig, set end/corner/gate posts, and as many intermediates as daylight allows.
- Day Two: Hang rails or panels, install gates, add caps, stain touch-ups on cuts, and clean the site.
Cost Savers And Smart Upgrades
Where To Save
- Rent an auger only for dense soil or long runs; a manual digger works fine on short lines.
- Buy fasteners in a contractor box; per-piece pricing adds up fast.
- Cut your own pickets from straight stock if pre-made panels don’t fit the slope.
Where To Spend
- Heavier posts at gates and corners stop sag and racking.
- Quality latch and hinge sets keep gates swinging smooth.
- Post caps and stain add years and keep the look fresh.
Troubleshooting Common Snags
Post Won’t Plumb
Push or pull with braces while the mix is still wet. If it’s set, add a thin wedge of concrete on the side that needs support and backfill once it cures.
Panel Heights Don’t Match
Shim rails at the posts to raise low panels, or trim a small amount off the bottom of a proud board. Follow the string line, not the ground line.
Gate Sags After A Week
Add an anti-sag cable kit from the low latch side up to the hinge-side top. Tune tension until the latch hits cleanly again.
Care And Maintenance After Install
Rinse off lawn chemicals after yard work. Recoat stain every few years as color fades. Keep soil and mulch pulled back from posts and concrete. Trim vines and heavy shrubs so airflow keeps boards dry. Replace single pickets promptly if they split or warp.
Disposal And Handling Notes
Old treated lumber should be handled with gloves and a dust mask during cutting or sanding; avoid burning scrap wood. Guidance from public agencies explains that treated products use registered preservatives and call for simple handling care and disposal through local waste streams that accept construction debris. Check your local rules for drop-off options.
Quick Checklist Before You Start
- Measure the run and mark post centers.
- Submit the utility locate request via your state’s 811 page.
- Pick posts, panels, hardware, gravel, and concrete.
- Stage tools and clamps; sharpen or charge blades and batteries.
- Plan the two-day window and recruit a helper for panel day.
Wrap-Up: A Straight, Sturdy Fence That Lasts
Good results come from depth, drainage, and alignment. Set solid anchors first, keep rails level, protect cut ends, and shed water at every post. Follow those basics and your new line will stand straight, keep pets in, and frame the yard with clean style.