How to Clean Clippers at Home | Simple 3-Step Routine

If your clippers start tugging or slowing down, the fix is usually a deep clean rather than a new tool. The process takes about ten minutes once you know what touches what. The trick is knowing which parts can get wet, which stay dry, and what to oil afterward. Here is the routine that works for corded and cordless clippers alike, backed by the manufacturers’ own steps.

Step 1: Remove Hair and Debris from the Blades

Turn the clipper off and unplug it (or disconnect it from the charger for cordless models). Pull off any snap-on guards or attachment combs. Use the small brush that came with the clipper, or a clean soft toothbrush, to sweep loose hair out of the blade teeth, the grooves where guards attach, and the gap between the moving and stationary blades. A quick brush after every use prevents buildup that gums up the cutting action later.

If your model has a removable cutter, take it off only if the manual says it is safe to do so. Philips explicitly says to remove the cutter only on models designed for it, and Wahl UK’s guidance treats snap-on/off blades as rinseable parts. For clippers without removable blades, the brush step is the only hair-removal you need.

Step 2: Clean and Disinfect the Blade Area

Here is where the water question lives. If your clipper is labeled as waterproof or rinseable — meaning the manufacturer says you can run the blade under water — you may rinse only the water-safe parts under running water, then dry them with a towel and let them air-dry fully before reassembling. That is the only situation where water touches the device.

For the vast majority of clippers, the right tool is a spray cleaner, not water. Wirecutter explicitly recommends a spray cleaner rather than getting clippers wet, then drying and oiling afterward. Wahl specifically recommends its own Hygienic Clipper Spray for disinfecting the blade between uses. Do not use household disinfectants or general-purpose cleaners; they can damage plastic housings and strip the blade’s coating.

If you prefer a DIY approach, a small amount of 70% isopropyl alcohol on the blade teeth (not the body, not the motor housing) can disinfect, but this method is not universal manufacturer guidance. When in doubt, follow the manual over any internet tip. The key rule across every source: the motor housing and electronic parts must never get wet unless the device is explicitly designed for that.

Step 3: Oil the Blades After Every Clean

This step is non-negotiable. Cleaning removes the old lubricant along with the hair and dirt. Without fresh oil, the blades run hotter, start snagging, and wear out faster. Apply a few drops of clipper oil — the guides consistently say only a few drops, not a flood — to the blade teeth and the pivot point. Turn the clipper on for a few seconds to work the oil through, then wipe away any excess with a dry cloth. Overapplying oil attracts more hair; underapplying lets friction build up.

Skipping oil after cleaning is the single most common mistake reported across the manufacturer guides. The brush-and-oil routine between full cleans extends the time between deep cleanings noticeably.

What NOT to Do When Cleaning Clippers

The most important safety rule: never immerse the entire clipper or let the motor housing get wet unless the manufacturer explicitly says it is waterproof. Leaving blades wet after rinsing invites rust, so dry them fully before storing. Avoid abrasive tools, harsh solvents, or soaking attachments in liquid. If you use a spray cleaner, keep it off the power cord and the charging port. Over-oiling is wasteful and counterproductive; the “few drops” rule applies universally.

A common question is whether you can dunk a non-waterproof clipper in rubbing alcohol to sanitize it. The answer is no — alcohol can seep into the motor housing through the blade gap and damage internal components. Stick to spray-on contact methods that stay on the blade surface.