How to Install Electrical Outlet for Wall-Mounted TV | Safe Wiring Steps

Hiding every cable behind a wall-mounted television is the finish that makes the setup look professional. The task is fundamentally an electrical project: extending power from an existing outlet into a new box behind the TV. While many homeowners complete it successfully, the work involves live electrical circuits and must follow the National Electrical Code (NEC). For many, the safest route is hiring a licensed electrician. If you proceed yourself, the workflow below—used with a listed in-wall power kit or a new old-work receptacle box—keeps the job code-compliant.

Before You Start: Tools, Materials, and the Big Safety Rule

This job requires a few specialized tools and a clear head. Gather a single-gang old-work box (like the Carlon SC100RR), a receptacle, a faceplate, NM-B/Romex cable, a drywall saw, a stud finder, wire strippers, and a non-contact voltage tester like the Klein NCVT-2. The cable size must match your circuit: 14/2 NM-B for a 15-amp circuit, and 12/2 NM-B for a 20-amp circuit.

The single most important rule: turn off the breaker for the source outlet and confirm the power is dead with your tester before touching a single wire. Working on live conductors is how serious injuries happen. A good practice is to use a plug-in tester or multimeter to double-check that the circuit is de-energized.

The Step-By-Step Installation Process

The goal is to move power from an accessible outlet to a new box in the wall cavity directly behind the TV. The Money Pit’s guide to installing an outlet for a wall-mounted TV outlines the practical process. The critical first move is to find the source receptacle and determine which side of the stud it is on. You will place your new outlet in the bay on the same side, which makes fishing the cable through the wall cavity far easier.

Here is the core procedure:

1. Kill the power. Turn off the breaker controlling the source outlet at the panel.
2. Verify the circuit is dead. Use your non-contact voltage tester on the receptacle and the wires inside the box. Leave the tester on while you work.
3. Prepare the source box. Remove the cover plate and the receptacle from the existing box, taking care to note the wiring configuration.
4. Cut the new opening. Use the new old-work box as a template to trace its outline on the drywall, then cut the hole with a drywall saw.
5. Run the cable. Fish the NM-B cable from the source box to the new opening. Leave about 8 inches of cable protruding from each hole so you have plenty of wire to work with.
6. Wire the new receptacle. Strip about 3/4 inch of insulation from each conductor. Make the connections: the bare copper ground wire to the green screw, the white neutral to the silver screw, and the black hot wire to the brass screw.
7. Connect the source box. Reconnect the existing receptacle, and use wire nuts and pigtails as needed to tie the new cable into the circuit properly.
8. Finish and test. Secure the old-work box in the wall, reinstall both receptacles and their faceplates, turn the breaker back on, and test the new outlet.

If it does not, turn the breaker back off and re-check your connections.

Code Rules That Shape the Job

The NEC exists to prevent fires and injuries, and it directly governs this project. The most commonly violated rule is running a TV’s standard power cord through the wall; that is not a code-compliant wiring method. In-wall power must come from listed kits or proper NM-B cable installed with approved boxes.

Two more code points matter. First, if your cable passes within 1.25 inches of a stud face, you must install nail plates for protection per NEC 300.4(D). Second, avoid extending from kitchen, bathroom, or dedicated appliance circuits; tap a general-purpose receptacle instead. If you plan to run high-wattage equipment, consider GFCI protection or a dedicated 20-amp circuit, though that is an upgrade beyond a simple tap.

Key Components and Typical Choices

For a cleaner look, recessed outlet kits from brands like Legrand Adorne and Leviton Decora Smart are designed to sit behind the TV and support the mount without creating a bulge. Whatever kit you choose, its listed rating must match your circuit’s amperage and box-fill requirements. If you are ready to shop for one, our tested roundup of the best electrical outlets for TV wall mounts compares the top options.

FAQs

Is it legal to install an outlet behind a TV on your own?

In most US jurisdictions, a homeowner can perform electrical work on their own property, but it must pass inspection and meet NEC standards. Some areas reserve this work for licensed electricians. Check your local building department for permit and inspection requirements before starting.

Can you just plug a TV into the outlet behind it?

Yes, once the outlet is installed and powered, you plug the TV’s cord directly into it. A recessed outlet is ideal because it sits deep enough in the wall that the TV mount can hang flush against the drywall without the plug forcing the TV outward.

What wire do I need for a TV outlet?

Use 14/2 NM-B cable for a 15-amp circuit or 12/2 NM-B for a 20-amp circuit. The wire gauge must match the breaker rating; installing 14-gauge wire on a 20-amp breaker is unsafe and violates code.