Die cutting machines cut shapes by pressing a steel die through material using rollers, plates, and pressure — and the whole process takes about a minute once you know the sandwich order.
For the full breakdown, see our best Die Cutting Machine for Beginners guide.
Whether you just unboxed your first machine or you’ve owned one for years, the steps for using a die cutting machine come down to one thing: building the right plate stack. Get the order right and the die cuts cleanly the first time. Get it wrong and you’ll fight with half-cut shapes and jammed rollers. Here’s the exact process that works across the major craft machines.
What Goes Into the Machine: The Plate Sandwich
Manual die cutting machines work like a wringer washer — you crank a handle that pulls a flat stack through two rollers. That stack, called a sandwich, applies even pressure across the die so it cuts your material cleanly. The classic order, bottom to top, is:
- Base plate (the thick platform that comes with your machine)
- Cutting plate or pad
- Your material (paper, cardstock, or fabric)
- The die, blade edge facing DOWN toward the material
- Top cutting plate
Stampin’ Up’s beginner guide stresses the same setup: build the correct sandwich, slide it through the rollers, and never force the stack. If it resists, stop and check your plate order rather than cranking harder.
The blade-edge-down orientation matters more than any other detail. Some dies have a subtle cutting edge you can barely see; running one upside down will crease your paper without cutting it. When in doubt, run a quick test cut on scrap cardstock first.
How to Feed a Manual Machine Without Jamming It
Once your sandwich is built, feeding it through is straightforward. Set the machine on a flat, stable surface, place the stack at the opening between the rollers, and turn the handle steadily. The rollers grab the plates and pull everything through in one pass.
Two details make this easier. First, stagger the plates slightly — slide the top plate back a quarter-inch so the leading edge steps down like a ramp. This helps the stack feed smoothly instead of thumping into the rollers. Second, flip your cutting plates regularly. They develop wear patterns, and rotating them extends their life while keeping cuts crisp.
Most manual machines also have a pressure dial. Create and Craft’s beginner guide recommends adjusting it according to the instruction manual for your specific die and material — thicker cardstock needs more pressure, thin paper needs less. Start light, test on scrap, and increase only if the cut doesn’t fully release.
Cutting With an Electric or Digital Machine
Digital machines like Cricuts skip the sandwich entirely. Instead of a die, they use a blade carriage that moves across a cutting mat. With these, the material setting in the software does the work of the pressure dial. Select the right setting for your material in Design Space, load the mat, and follow the on-screen prompts for positioning and cutting.
Electric machines still demand the same prep: your material must be flat, clean, and free of wrinkles. Don’t overload the mat — material should sit smoothly within the adhesive area, and it must fit within the machine’s platform size. And always do a test cut on scrap before committing to your final piece. That single habit prevents more wasted cardstock than any other tip.
One important gate to know: machines have maximum thickness limits. Some paper-focused models top out around 3 mm, while industrial machines can handle up to 10 mm. Fabric, plastic, and foam all cut fine — but only within the thickness and die-type rating of your specific model. Check the spec sheet before feeding something chunky.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Most die-cutting failures trace back to the same handful of errors. The plate order is wrong for the machine, the die faces up instead of down, the stack is forced through with too much pressure, or the material is too thick, curled, or loose. All four damage plates or dies and produce ragged cuts.
Inspect your machine and die before each session. Look for burrs on the die’s cutting edge, warped plates, or debris between the rollers. A damaged die tears instead of cutting; a warped plate creates uneven pressure that leaves one end cut and the other scored. If a result looks off, fix the cause before running your final piece — don’t just crank it through again.
FAQs
Why is my die cutting machine not cutting all the way through?
Usually it’s a pressure problem. Your sandwich needs more pressure, your material is thicker than the die can handle, or the die’s cutting edge is dull or facing the wrong direction. Run a test cut on scrap with increased pressure first; if it still won’t cut, check the die for damage and confirm your plate order matches the machine manual.
Can I cut fabric with a die cutting machine?
Yes, but only if the machine and die are rated for it. Fabric needs a different sandwich than paper — usually a dedicated fabric cutting plate set — and the die must be sharp enough to shear fibers cleanly. Check the thickness rating and test on scrap fabric before cutting your final piece.
Do I need to use the manufacturer’s plates with my machine?
Yes. Plates are machine-specific — the thickness and size are calibrated to the roller gap. Using off-brand or mismatched plates can damage the rollers or fail to apply enough pressure. Stick with the base plate, cutting plates, and pads made for your model.
References & Sources
- Spellbinders Blog. “What Is Die Cutting? A Beginner’s Guide for Cardmakers.” Explains die orientation and the plate sandwich for manual machines.
- Stampin’ Up Blog. “Die Cutting Machine Basics for Beginners.” Covers sandwich order, staggering plates for feeding, and plate rotation.
- Crafter’s Companion. “The Beginner’s Guide to Die Cutting.” Details pressure dial adjustments and material-specific settings.