How to Make a Dish Drying Mat | Sew Your Own Absorbent Pad

A homemade dish drying mat costs a fraction of store-bought versions and lets you pick fabrics that actually absorb water. The sewing itself takes about an hour with basic tools you probably already own. The method stays the same whether you’re using old towels or fresh cotton: cut two layers, sew them together, turn, and secure the seams.

What You Need To Sew A Dish Drying Mat

Gather these supplies before you start cutting. Most are standard sewing kit items.

• Cotton fabric for the top layer (quilting cotton works well)
• Terry cloth or an all-cotton dish towel for the backing
• Thread, pins, scissors, and a rotary cutter with cutting mat
• Sewing machine with a basic straight stitch

Skip microfiber towels for the absorbent layer. Microfiber doesn’t soak up water the way cotton terry does, and it can’t handle high heat in the dryer. All-cotton terry cloth works better for the absorbent layer, as one tutorial notes.

Cutting and Sewing The Two Layers

Start by prewashing and ironing both fabrics. This step reduces shrinkage and removes wrinkles that would distort your cutting lines.

1. Cut both layers to the same size. A finished mat around 18 x 24 inches works well for most sinks. You can make any size you want — one source notes mats can be cut to any desired dimensions.
2. Round the corners. Trace a small plate or bowl at each corner and cut the curve. This keeps the corners from puckering when you turn the mat right side out.
3. Pin the layers right sides together. The pretty sides face each other, with the wrong sides facing out.
4. Sew around the perimeter with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Leave a 4-to-5-inch gap on one side for turning.
5. Clip the curved corners. Snip small notches close to the stitching, being careful not to cut the thread. This lets the curves lie flat.
6. Turn the mat right side out through the gap. Use a chopstick or knitting needle to push the corners out fully.
7. Press the edges flat with an iron, then topstitch around the entire perimeter, closing the turning gap as you go.

When you finish, the mat should lie flat with clean, sharp corners and no gap in the stitching. The water-absorbing terry side faces the counter, and the cotton top sits under your dishes.

Securing The Seams So The Mat Lasts

A simple perimeter stitch leaves the two layers free to shift and balloon in the wash. Quilting lines fix that problem.

Sew straight lines across the mat every few inches, or stitch a grid pattern, to hold the layers together. One tutorial uses quilting-style lines across a mat made from sewn fabric strips. These interior stitches stop the layers from pulling apart and keep the mat flat when wet.

For an even sturdier version, add edge stitching or a second line of topstitching around the perimeter. This extra row of thread reinforces the seam that takes the most abuse.

If you’d rather compare store-bought options before committing to a sewing project, our tested roundup of the best drying mats for dishes covers the top commercial picks and what they cost.

FAQs

What fabric is best for a dish drying mat?

All-cotton terry cloth is the best absorbent layer because it soaks up water quickly and survives hot dryer cycles. Quilting cotton works well for the decorative top. Avoid microfiber, which absorbs poorly and can’t handle high heat without melting or warping.

How big should a dish drying mat be?

A common finished size is about 18 x 24 inches, which fits most countertops beside the sink. Smaller sinks work fine with an 18 x 16 inch mat. The size is flexible — you can cut the fabric to match your counter space exactly.

Can I sew a dish drying mat without a sewing machine?

Yes, but it takes longer. Hand-sew the perimeter with a running stitch, then use a slip stitch to close the turning gap. For best results, add quilting lines by hand to secure the layers. A machine is faster but not required.