Use an undercoat rake with short, gentle strokes in the direction of hair growth to remove loose undercoat without damaging the topcoat.
For the full breakdown, see our best Dog Undercoat Rake guide.
An undercoat rake is one of the best tools for managing a double-coated dog’s seasonal shedding, but technique matters as much as the tool itself. Used incorrectly, the rake can irritate skin or cut the topcoat; used right, it pulls out loose undercoat in satisfying clumps your dog will thank you for. Here’s the exact method, plus the safety rules worth following.
What an Undercoat Rake Does
An undercoat rake has long, sturdy teeth spaced wide enough to reach through the topcoat and pull loose undercoat from deep in the coat. It differs from a slicker brush or pin brush, which mainly work the surface. The rake’s job is to remove dead undercoat before it mats or ends up on your furniture.
Undercoat rakes are designed for dogs with dense, double coats or heavy undercoats — think Newfoundlands, Aussies, Golden Retrievers, and similar breeds. On single-coated dogs or those with fine, thin coats, a rake can be too aggressive and damage the topcoat.
How to Use an Undercoat Rake: Step by Step
Start with a calm dog and a dry coat. If the coat is tangled or matted, brush those out first — the rake is not a detangling tool. The Northern Newfoundland Club’s grooming guide recommends using the rake “to get into the coat, then comb slightly outward from the body rather than scraping it across the skin.”
- Work in small sections, moving from head to tail or in layers and lines so the teeth reach the skin without scraping it.
- Rake in the direction of hair growth using short, gentle passes. Never saw back and forth.
- Lift the rake slightly outward as you finish each stroke instead of dragging it across the skin.
- Clean hair from the rake frequently. A full rake stops pulling undercoat and starts pulling skin.
- Be extra careful around thin-skin areas: the stomach, legs, genitals, ears, armpits, hocks, and flank. Use lighter pressure there or skip those spots entirely.
For best results, keep sessions to about 5–10 minutes depending on coat thickness. Frequent short sessions beat one long, punishing one.
Wet or Dry? Safety and Common Mistakes
Sources disagree on wet versus dry coats. One grooming source says rakes are designed for dry fur and wet use can cause pulling and irritation, while another says undercoat rakes can be used wet or dry and may work well before bathing or in the tub. The safest bet: use the rake on a dry coat most of the time. If your dog’s coat is wet, wait until it’s fully dry before raking.
Safety rules worth following:
- Never use the rake on skin sores, bruises, or active skin conditions. Wait until a vet has treated them.
- Excessive strokes or pressure can irritate skin or, on some coat types, cut the topcoat. Light pressure and fewer passes are always safer.
- Start with wider teeth and move to narrower teeth only if needed.
- Clean and dry the rake after use to prevent rust on non-stainless parts.
If you’re not sure which rake fits your dog’s coat, our roundup of the best dog undercoat rakes breaks down tooth spacing, handle comfort, and which coats each model suits best.
References & Sources
- Northern Newfoundland Club. “Grooming a Newfoundland.” Details rake technique, including the comb-outward motion and thin-skin cautions.
- Icelandic Sheepdog Association of the United States. “De-Shedding Instructions.” Covers wet/dry use, tooth width, and cleaning guidance for undercoat rakes.
- Australian Shepherd Club of America. “Grooming Your Australian Shepherd.” Describes rake technique and double-coat care for dense-coated breeds.
