How to Drill Into Concrete for Screws | Clean Pilot Holes First

For the full breakdown, see our best Drill for Concrete guide.

Drilling into concrete comes down to three things: the right tool, the right bit, and a clean, deep pilot hole. A hammer drill with a carbide masonry bit is the standard. Nearly every fastener failure traces back to a skipped step — a clogged hole, a bit that wandered, or a hole that’s too shallow.

Choosing The Right Hammer Drill And Masonry Bit

A standard drill will stall or burn out against concrete. A hammer drill combines rotation with a rapid pulsing action that breaks up the aggregate as it cuts. For occasional jobs, a cordless hammer drill works fine; for long runs or dense concrete, a corded model holds speed better. Carbide-tipped masonry bits are the cutting tool — they grind through concrete, unlike standard twist bits that dull almost immediately. Concrete diamond point screws are another option; they cut their own hole without a separate bit, but work best in softer concrete.

Bit size matters. For 3/16-inch concrete screws, use a 5/32-inch masonry bit. For 1/4-inch screws, use a 3/16-inch bit. Many screw packages print the required bit size on the label — check before you drill. Impact drivers can also drive hex-head concrete screws once the pilot hole is complete; many pros use a hammer drill for the hole and an impact driver to seat the screw without stripping the head.

How To Drill The Pilot Hole

1. Mark the spot with pencil or chalk. For heavy items, mark all holes and check them with a level.
2. Set a depth stop so the hole runs about 1/4-inch deeper than the screw length. If your drill lacks a stop, wrap tape around the bit as a guide.
3. Keep the drill perpendicular to the wall. An angled hole makes the screw sit crooked and can shear it under load.
4. Start at low speed with steady, light pressure. Forcing it generates heat and dulls the carbide.
5. Pull the bit out occasionally to clear dust; a clogged flue stops the cut and can bind the bit.
6. Stop at the depth mark. A too-shallow hole will snap the screw.

Once at depth, blow out the hole with a straw, vacuum it, or sweep it with a brush. Trapped dust packs into the bottom and blocks the screw from seating fully. A screw that wiggles after driving usually means the hole was too shallow or not cleaned.

Before drilling, check the wall for pipes, ducts, and wiring. A stud finder with wire-detection mode or a look in the attic or basement can save you from a bigger project. On concrete walls, use a non-contact voltage detector over the area if unsure what’s behind the surface.

Screws vs. Anchors: Which One Do You Need?

Concrete screws — sometimes called tapcon-style screws — cut their own threads into the concrete as they’re driven. They work well in cured concrete and are the fastest option for light to medium loads. Anchors follow a different rule. For expansion anchors and similar systems, the drill bit diameter must match the anchor’s nominal diameter exactly, and the hole must be cleaned per the manufacturer’s published instructions before installation. These systems rely on the anchor expanding against the hole walls for holding power. If your concrete screws don’t catch — the hole was too wide, the concrete is crumbly, or the screw spins — switch to a concrete anchor sized for the hole you drilled.

Safety And Common Mistakes To Avoid

• Don’t force the drill. Steady light pressure cuts faster than pushing hard.
• Keep the drill perpendicular. Angled holes weaken the hold and can snap the screw.
• Clear the dust. A packed hole prevents seating and reduces holding power.
• Don’t overtighten. Over-torquing strips threads or breaks the head off.
• Brace yourself. A bound bit can spin the drill body suddenly. Keep a stable stance and use the auxiliary handle when available.
• Wear eye protection and a dust mask. Concrete dust is abrasive and fine particles hang in the air.

For overhead work, stand on a platform or scaffold rather than stretching from a ladder; proper body position keeps the drill perpendicular and reduces fatigue.

FAQs

What speed should I use to drill into concrete?

Start at the lowest speed and increase only if the bit isn’t cutting. Low speed keeps the carbide tip cool and prevents glazing. Steady, light pressure at low speed produces the cleanest hole and the longest bit life.

Can I use a regular drill instead of a hammer drill?

A regular drill can manage a shallow hole in soft concrete or masonry block, but it will struggle on cured concrete. The hammer action is what breaks up the aggregate. Rent a hammer drill if you don’t own one — it’s the difference between a five-minute hole and a stalled motor.

How deep should the pilot hole be for concrete screws?

Drill the hole at least 1/4-inch deeper than the screw will penetrate. For example, a 2-inch screw needs a hole roughly 2-1/4 inches deep. This extra depth gives dust a place to go and prevents the screw from bottoming out before it’s fully seated.