How To Plant Cabbage In Garden? | Simple Steps

Cabbage thrives in cool weather and steady moisture. With a bit of planning—right timing, healthy transplants, and steady care—you’ll pull tight, heavy heads from a small space. This guide walks you through setup, timing for spring and fall crops, spacing, watering, feeding, pest control, and harvest so you get firm heads with sweet flavor.

Planting Cabbage In Your Backyard Garden: Timing And Prep

Set your schedule by local frost dates and your zone. For spring harvests, start seeds indoors about 4–6 weeks before your last light frost and set transplants out when the ground can be worked. For fall harvests, start new seedlings in mid- to late summer so heads size up in cool weather. If you don’t know your zone, use the official USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to match cabbage timing to your region.

Good soil makes the crop easy. Cabbage likes full sun, fertile loam, and steady moisture. Aim for a soil pH near 6.2–6.8, plenty of compost mixed in, and a balanced pre-plant fertilizer based on a soil test. Keep the bed weed-free so young plants don’t stall.

At-A-Glance Settings For A Strong Start

Factor	Target Range	Notes
Seed Start Indoors	4–6 weeks before last frost	Bright light; keep temps near 60–70°F
Transplant Window	As soon as soil is workable	Plants handle light frosts
Seed Depth	¼–½ inch	Firm seedling mix gently
Plant Spacing	12–18 inches	Wider gaps grow larger heads
Row Spacing	24–36 inches	Leaves need airflow
Soil pH	~6.2–6.8	Neutral to slightly acidic
Soil Moisture	Even; 1–1.5 in./week	Mulch helps hold water
Light	6+ hours full sun	More sun = tighter heads
Fertilizer	Light feed at planting; side-dress later	Too much N late can split heads
Days To Maturity	60–100+ days	Varies by type and spacing

Choose The Right Type For Your Bed

You’ll see early, mid-season, and late types. Early kinds size up fast and are great for spring. Mid-season strike a balance of speed and weight. Late types hold longer and store well. If space is tight, pick compact or “mini” heads. Savoy types give crinkled leaves for tender slaw, while round green or red types shine in wedges and roasts. Match the days to maturity to your frost window so heads finish in cool weather.

Start Seeds Indoors For A Head Start

Clean trays, fresh mix, and bright light make sturdy seedlings. Sow two seeds per cell at ¼–½ inch deep. After germination, snip to one strong plant. Keep temps near the mid-60s°F so stems stay stocky. Run a fan on low for airflow and stronger growth. About a week before planting out, harden off plants by setting them outside for longer periods each day.

Transplant Without Stress

Pick a cool, cloudy afternoon. Water seedlings a few hours ahead so roots slide out intact. Space plants 12–18 inches apart in rows 24–36 inches apart. Bury stems only to the original soil line, not deeper. Water each plant in well and add a ring of mulch right away—shredded leaves, straw, or chipped wood work fine.

Direct Seeding Works Too

In mild spring weather, you can sow directly in the bed. Plant ¼–½ inch deep in a wide band, then thin to final spacing once seedlings hold two to three true leaves. Keep the top inch of soil evenly moist until stands are set.

Watering That Builds Tight Heads

Shallow, frequent splashes lead to weak roots and bitter leaves. Aim for 1–1.5 inches of water across the week, split into two to three deep soakings. Drip lines or soaker hoses shine here. Keep moisture even during head fill; big swings can cause cracked heads. Mulch holds water, cools soil, and reduces weeds—three wins at once.

Feeding Schedule That Doesn’t Cause Splits

At planting, mix a light dose of balanced fertilizer or compost into the hole. Three to four weeks later, side-dress with a small band of nitrogen a few inches from the stem and water it in. Stop feeding as heads begin to firm; heavy late nitrogen can push fast growth and split heads. When in doubt, test soil and follow extension guidance from a trusted source like UMN Extension’s cabbage page for rates and timing that match your bed.

Temperature, Frost, And Heat Tips

Cabbage grows best with cool days and cooler nights. Plants handle light frosts and often taste sweeter after a nip of cold. Heat over the mid-70s to low-80s°F can stall growth or trigger loose heads. Use shade cloth on hot spells and keep water steady. For fall crops, sow or set out so the final swell happens under cool skies—heads will be tight and crisp.

Smart Spacing For The Size You Want

Spacing sets head size and airflow. At 12 inches, you’ll get more but smaller heads. At 18 inches, fewer plants, but heavy, wide heads. Keep rows wide enough for breeze and easy harvest. Where space is narrow, use a staggered offset pattern so leaves don’t crowd. Good airflow limits foliar disease, keeps slugs in check, and helps leaves dry after rain.

Mulch, Weed Control, And Clean Beds

Weeds steal water and delay head fill. Lay 2–3 inches of organic mulch after transplanting. Hand pull weeds early while roots are small. Keep old brassica stems, roots, and leaves out of the bed after harvest. Rotate out of the cabbage family for 2–3 years to cut pest and disease carryover.

Simple Pest Prevention That Works

The most common leaf feeders are imported cabbageworm, cabbage looper, diamondback moth larvae, and cross-striped caterpillars. A few bites won’t ruin a crop, but heavy feeding will slow growth. Floating row covers from day one block egg-laying. If you don’t use covers, scout the undersides of leaves weekly and hand-pick small larvae.

If chewing gets ahead of you, use targeted options labeled for edible gardens, and spray in the evening when pollinators are inactive. Keep sprays off heads near harvest. Clean up plant debris at season’s end to break the cycle.

Quick Troubleshooting Table

Issue	Signs	What To Do
Caterpillars	Holes; green frass on leaves	Row covers; hand-pick; spot-treat with labeled BT
Aphids	Sticky leaves; curled tips	Blast with water; prune infested leaves; encourage lady beetles
Slugs	Ragged holes; slime trails	Mulch dryness; traps; iron phosphate baits
Cracking	Split heads near harvest	Keep moisture even; harvest promptly; reduce late nitrogen
Loose Heads	Leaves won’t tighten	Plant earlier or later for cool finish; use compact types; check spacing
Clubroot	Wilting; swollen roots	Rotate 3+ years; adjust pH toward neutral; remove infected roots

Season Extensions: Get Two Crops

With row cover and a simple cold frame, you can push spring planting earlier and protect young transplants from insects and wind. For fall, start a new round 6–10 weeks before your first fall frost. In hot areas, germinate seeds in shade, then move seedlings into sun. Water seedlings well during late-summer heat and mulch deeply to cool the root zone.

Harvest, Storage, And Kitchen Prep

Heads are ready when they’re firm to a squeeze and feel heavy for their size. Cut the stem just below the head with a sharp knife, leaving a few wrapper leaves for padding. If rain is forecast and heads are tight, harvest to avoid splits. Many varieties hold on the stalk for a short window; if you can’t pick right away, twist the head a quarter turn to sever some feeder roots and slow uptake.

For short-term storage, keep heads cold and humid in the fridge. For longer storage, trim, wrap lightly, and keep them near 32–40°F with high humidity. Red types and late varieties usually keep the longest.

Common Mistakes And Easy Fixes

Planting Too Late For Spring

Heat softens heads and invites pests. Start seeds early enough that heads tighten before summer peaks. If you missed the window, switch to a fall schedule.

Uneven Watering

Long dry spells followed by heavy soaks lead to cracks. Use mulch and a schedule—deep, regular soakings. A simple rain gauge helps you track weekly totals.

Heavy Nitrogen Near Harvest

Strong growth late can split heads. Front-load fertility, side-dress mid-grow, then stop once heads begin to firm.

No Rotation

Planting brassicas in the same spot year after year builds up pests and diseases. Rotate with beans, onions, or salad greens to break the cycle.

Step-By-Step Planting Walkthrough

1) Prep The Bed

Clear crop debris, spread 1–2 inches of compost, and rake smooth. Check pH and adjust as needed. Set drip lines or soaker hoses in place before planting.

2) Set Transplants

Lay out plants at 12–18 inches in staggered rows. Water holes first, tuck in roots at the same depth they grew in trays, and firm the soil around the stem.

3) Water And Mulch

Water deeply to settle soil. Add 2–3 inches of mulch around each plant, keeping it just off the stems.

4) Side-Dress Mid-Grow

Three to four weeks after transplanting, feed lightly along the row, scratch it in, and water. Stop feeding once you feel heads starting to firm.

5) Scout Weekly

Lift outer leaves and look for small green larvae or clusters of eggs. Pick pests early. If pressure climbs, use row cover or a targeted treatment.

6) Time The Harvest

When heads feel tight and heavy, cut in the cool of morning. Chill quickly to hold flavor and crunch.

Why Cool Weather Makes Better Heads

Cabbage is built for cool seasons. During warm spells, plants push leaves fast and can get loose centers. When days and nights are cool, plants pack leaves tightly, sugars rise, and heads hold better in the bed. That’s why the best fall crops often taste the sweetest after a light frost. If your springs run short and hot, shift your main crop to fall.

Reliable Guidance Worth Bookmarking

For local frost dates, zone details, and bed prep, the USDA zone map is the standard reference. For planting depth, spacing, and care basics drawn from tested trials, see this clear Utah State Extension cabbage guide. Both resources help you tune the steps above to your climate and soil.