How To Plant Cabbage Seeds In Garden? | Crisp-Head Guide

Cabbage loves cool weather, steady moisture, and a firm bed. This guide shows you when to sow, how deep to plant, how to space seedlings, and how to keep pests from shredding leaves. You’ll learn fast steps up top, then deeper tips with spacing charts, watering targets, and troubleshooting. By the end, you can set seed and walk away with a plan that fits spring or fall.

Quick Timing And Seed-To-Head Timeline

Cabbage germinates at cool temperatures and grows best in mild days. Spring sowing aims to beat summer heat; late-summer sowing aims for a sweet fall harvest. Use the table below to match stages to your season.

Stage	Spring Window	Late-Summer/Fall Window
Sow Seeds Indoors	4–6 weeks before last frost	12–14 weeks before first frost
Direct Sow Outdoors	2–4 weeks before last frost with cover	Late summer when nights cool
Transplant Date	1–2 weeks before last frost	6–8 weeks before first frost
Thin To Final Spacing	At 3–4 true leaves	At 3–4 true leaves
Head Maturity	60–100 days from transplant	60–100 days from transplant

Soil Prep And Bed Setup

Give brassicas a firm, fertile bed. Work in finished compost for structure and a slow feed. Aim for loose topsoil so seedlings root fast, yet settle the surface by raking and pressing lightly with the back of the rake. This helps heads form dense cores later. If your soil stays wet, raise the bed a few inches to improve drainage. Cabbage tolerates a range of pH near neutral; many home gardens sit in a fine range already. Where clubroot appears locally, crop rotation and liming are common responses; check regional advice if that disease is present.

Pre-water the bed the day before sowing so the top inch is evenly moist. That single step cuts seed rot and uneven sprouting. Lay out rows 18–30 inches apart to give room for airflow and access.

Planting Cabbage Seeds Outdoors – Step-By-Step

Direct sowing works in cool spring or in late summer once heat breaks. Use row cover or insect netting from day one in regions with heavy moth pressure.

1. Mark Rows: Snap a taut line or use the edge of a board for straight rows. Straight rows make netting and weeding easier.
2. Make Furrows: Draw shallow furrows ¼–½ inch deep. Keep depth even; shallow seed dries fast, deep seed lags.
3. Sow Thick, Then Thin: Drop 1–2 seeds every 2 inches. Slightly denser sowing hedges against patchy germination.
4. Cover And Firm: Pull soil back and press gently along the row to set seed-to-soil contact. Firm contact speeds water uptake.
5. Water: Use a rose-head watering can or a gentle spray to moisten the top ½ inch. Avoid blasting seed out of place.
6. Shade Or Cover: In bright sun, lay a board edge-propped over the row, or use lightweight fabric. Remove once sprouts show.

Starting Indoors For Transplanting

Starting in trays gives a head start and tighter spacing control. Room temperatures around 60–70°F give stout seedlings; warmer rooms can stretch stems. Thin to one seedling per cell, then brush fingers across tops daily to toughen stems. A small fan on low also helps. Harden off for a week: shady spot first, then a bit more light daily, then a night or two outdoors before planting in the bed.

When To Sow By Frost Dates

Spring crops: start under cover late winter and set out just before the last frost. Fall crops: sow in trays mid to late summer so plants size up during cooler nights. Many extension guides advise transplanting 1–2 weeks before the last frost and 6–8 weeks before the first frost for fall heads. That schedule keeps growth steady while avoiding hot spells that loosen texture. See the University of Minnesota Extension’s cabbage guide for timing notes on cool-season planting; it aligns well with these windows and spacing ranges (UMN cabbage guide).

Depth, Spacing, And Row Layout

Seed depth stays shallow—about ¼–½ inch. For final spacing, pick a target based on head size. Compact heads need less elbow room; late storage types need more. Thin direct-sown rows to your final spacing at the 3–4 true-leaf stage. Transplanted starts can be set to final spacing from day one.

• Compact And Early Types: 12–15 inches apart in rows 18–24 inches apart.
• Mid-Season Heads: 15–18 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart.
• Large And Storage Heads: 18–24 inches apart in rows 24–30 inches apart.

Water, Light, And Temperature Targets

Keep soil evenly moist from sprout to harvest. Water 1–1½ inches per week from rain and irrigation combined. A drip line with a 1-inch mulch layer holds moisture and keeps leaves dry, which helps with disease avoidance. Full sun builds sturdy plants, but in hot regions a light mid-afternoon shade cloth keeps heads tighter during warm spells. Cool nights help sugars rise, adding sweetness to fall heads.

Feeding Without Splitting Heads

Brassicas are hungry early, then need moderation near heading. Mix compost into the bed before planting. Side-dress a small dose of nitrogen about four weeks after transplant or once seedlings stand 4–5 inches tall. Stop feeding once heads start to fill. Overfeeding at that point can cause rapid growth and split heads. Many state guides echo this rhythm: early feed for leaves, then ease off when the core begins to firm.

Netting, Pests, And Clean Leaves

Butterfly larvae chew fast; small holes multiply in days. The cleanest fix is netting from day one. Use insect mesh on hoops tall enough that leaves don’t touch the fabric. Where moth pressure is high, scout the undersides of leaves each week and remove clusters by hand. The UC Statewide IPM program details common culprits such as imported cabbageworm and simple controls suited to home gardens (UC IPM cabbageworm page).

Slugs hide under boards and mulch; set beer traps or handpick at dusk. Flea beetles pepper leaves with tiny pits; floating row cover from the start keeps them out. Rotate brassicas yearly with non-brassica crops to reduce disease carryover. Remove and bin diseased debris after harvest.

Transplanting Seedlings Into The Bed

Plant on a cool, overcast day if you can. Water the tray first so plugs slide out intact. Set seedlings so the first leaves sit just above soil level; tall, leggy stems can be buried slightly deeper for support. Press soil around the plug to lock in contact, then water to settle any gaps. Add a lightweight collar of cardboard at the soil line to deter cutworms, especially in direct-sown beds.

Thinning Direct-Sown Rows The Smart Way

Thin in two passes to reduce shock. First pass: snip extras at soil level when plants are 2 inches tall, leaving a plant every 4 inches. Second pass: at 3–4 true leaves, pick the best and snip neighbors to hit your final spacing. Snipping—rather than pulling—avoids wiggling roots of the keeper plants.

Mulch, Weeds, And Airflow

Mulch locks moisture and stops mud splash. Straw, shredded leaves, or a thin compost blanket work well. Keep mulch an inch away from stems to avoid rot. Hand weed early while roots are shallow; a sharp hoe glides under cotyledons without disturbing the row. Space rows wide enough to walk and weed without brushing leaves, which also helps airflow after rain.

Temperature Swings And Bolting

Cold snaps on very young plants can trigger early buds. Use row cover for the first stretch outdoors in spring. Heat waves in early summer can loosen texture; late-summer plantings that size up during cool nights hold tighter heads. If you garden in a warm zone, lean toward fall crops for the best texture.

Harvest, Holding, and Storage

Harvest when heads feel solid from top to base. If a head starts to crack, pick it that day and refrigerate. Leave a few wrapper leaves on for protection. In fall, you can cut a head and let side buds form small “mini-heads” for a bonus harvest. For storage types, keep temperatures just above freezing with high humidity. Avoid washing before storage; brush off dirt and trim outer leaves later.

Common Mistakes And Easy Fixes

• Loose Heads: Plants spaced too tight or grown in heat. Widen spacing next round or shift the crop to fall.
• Yellow Lower Leaves: Water shortfall or nitrogen need early in growth. Add steady moisture and a modest side-dress early only.
• Hollow Cores: Growth spurts from heavy feeding or uneven water. Keep water steady and pause fertilizer at heading.
• Chewed Leaves: Moths or slugs. Net from sowing and set slug traps.
• Split Heads: Late heavy rain or overfeeding near maturity. Harvest earlier once heads are tight.

How To Sow Cabbage Seeds In The Ground – Steps That Scale

This section pulls the entire method into a single list you can repeat across beds or a larger plot.

1. Map The Bed: Rows 24 inches apart for mid-size heads; adjust to crop type.
2. Set Moisture: Pre-water the day before sowing or transplanting.
3. Sow Or Set Starts: Seed ¼–½ inch deep; or transplant to final spacing.
4. Cover: Net with insect mesh on hoops; anchor edges with soil or pins.
5. Water Schedule: 1–1½ inches per week. Use drip for even supply.
6. Feed Once: Light side-dress at week four of active growth, then stop.
7. Weed And Thin: Two-step thinning for direct sowing; hoe young weeds.
8. Scout Weekly: Flip leaves, check for small green larvae, and remove.
9. Harvest Tight: Cut when heads feel firm across the top and sides.

Size Goals, Spacing, And Yield Planning

Choose spacing by your plate and storage plans. Tighter spacing yields more small heads per square foot; wider spacing yields fewer but larger heads. Plan on one medium head per square foot at 15–18 inches between plants with 24-inch rows. Storage types may drop to 0.7 heads per square foot at wider gaps. Interplant quick radishes or lettuces in the row early; they mature before the brassicas need room.

Goal	Plant Spacing	Expected Head Size
Many Small Heads	12–15 in, rows 18–24 in	1–2 lb
Standard Kitchen Heads	15–18 in, rows 24 in	2–3 lb
Large Storage Heads	18–24 in, rows 24–30 in	3–5 lb+

Season Extensions And Heat Relief

Simple tools add weeks to either end of the season. Row cover or a small tunnel lifts spring soil temperature and shields young plants from cold winds. In fall, a low tunnel with venting keeps growth moving during early frosts. Many extension pages recommend soil-warming mulches and protective covers for early starts and late endings; a small tunnel kit often pays for itself with one extra month of growth.

Regional Tweaks You Can Trust

Cool coastal zones: direct sow more often; sea fog and mild nights are perfect for heading. Hot inland zones: aim for fall heads; start seed in shade and transplant under netting. Short seasons: start in trays under lights, then plant into a covered bed two weeks before the last frost. Snow belt gardens: lean on fall crops for the sweetest flavor and denser texture.

Method Recap You Can Print

Pick spring or fall. Build a firm, fertile bed. Sow shallow and keep moisture steady. Space 12–24 inches based on head size goals. Net early to block moths. Feed early, pause at heading. Harvest once heads are tight across the top and sides. For deeper reference on sowing windows, spacing, and cool-season care, the UMN cabbage guide lays out timing and planting basics, and the UC IPM cabbageworm page shows simple scouting and control.