Spiral curls come from small, dry sections wrapped tightly and vertically around a curling iron held for a few seconds.
Spiral curls are the bouncy, corkscrew style that holds its shape long after straight hair falls flat. The technique differs from classic curls — you twist each section before wrapping, and the iron stays vertical the whole time. The payoff is defined, springy spirals instead of loose waves. If you want tighter, bouncier curls that survive humidity, the vertical wrap method below delivers.
Why Small Sections Make Better Spiral Curls
Your section size decides whether you get spirals or tangles. Spiral curls require every strand to wrap around the barrel in the same direction — that’s what creates the corkscrew shape. Large sections can’t do this cleanly.
Stick to sections around 1 inch wide. Anything much bigger reduces curl definition and increases the chance of tangling, as the hair can’t wrap evenly. For very tight spirals, some stylists go smaller. The key is consistency — every section should be roughly the same size so the finished curls match.
Clean sectioning matters more than speed. Clip the uncurled hair away, working from the bottom up, so each 1-inch piece is the only hair in your hand.
The Vertical Wrapping Technique
The vertical wrap is what separates spiral curls from ordinary curls. Hold the curling iron upright, barrel pointing down, and wrap each twisted section from root to tip.
Here’s the sequence that works:
- Start with completely dry, detangled hair. Wet or damp hair won’t hold a curl and risks heat damage.
- Mist the section with heat protectant from about 6 inches away. This is non-negotiable — it’s your main defense against heat damage.
- Twist the entire section from base to ends so the hair is one tight rope.
- Wrap the twisted section around the barrel, beginning as close to the root as possible.
- Rotate the iron 360° around the hair and hold for a few seconds before releasing.
Don’t start wrapping from the bottom of the section. Wrapping from the root down keeps tension even and reduces damage risk. Hold for 5–10 seconds, depending on your hair’s texture, then release.
Cooling, Separating, and Finishing
The cooling step is where most people lose their curls. Touching or brushing a hot curl makes it fall out instantly. Let each curl cool completely in your palm before you move on.
Once every section is curled and cool, run your fingers gently through the curls to loosen them and add volume. A wide-tooth comb works too, but fingers give you more control over how defined the spirals stay.
Finish with a light-hold hairspray to lock the shape. For curls that last through a long day, this final step matters as much as the wrapping technique.
If you’re shopping for a tool purpose-built for this style, the best curling irons for spiral curls prioritize narrow barrels and even heat distribution — two features that make the vertical wrap method easier to master.
FAQs
Can I use a curling wand instead of a curling iron?
Yes, a curling wand works for spiral curls, though it lacks a clip. You hold the twisted section against the barrel with your fingers or a heat-resistant glove. The technique is the same: vertical barrel, small sections, a few seconds of hold time. Wands often produce looser spirals since you have less tension control.
How do I keep spiral curls from falling out?
Three factors decide curl longevity: completely dry hair before you start, letting each curl cool fully before touching it, and finishing with hairspray. Skipping any of these steps causes premature drooping. If your hair is naturally straight or fine, hold the iron a few seconds longer and use a stronger-hold spray.
What temperature should my curling iron be for spiral curls?
Most hair types curl well between 300°F and 380°F. Fine or damaged hair should stay at the lower end, while thick or coarse hair needs more heat. Always test a small section first and adjust. If your iron has a variable temperature dial, start low and increase only if the curl doesn’t hold.
References & Sources
- L’Oréal Paris. “How to Get Spiral Curls.” Details heat protectant application and sectioning guidance for spiral styles.
- Sam Villa. “6 Different Ways to Curl Your Hair.” Covers the vertical wrap technique and iron rotation for spiral curls.
