Yes, you can plant a raised garden in stages—prep the soil, set spacing, and water on a steady schedule for strong growth.
Starting a raised bed is easier when you break it into clear moves. This guide walks you from first shovel to first harvest with spacing, timing, and care that actually works in a boxed bed. You’ll see what to plant first, how deep to plant, and how to keep moisture and nutrients in the sweet spot.
Planting A Raised Garden Bed Step-By-Step
Work through these steps in order. You can finish them in a weekend, then add plants as the season rolls.
Pick The Spot And Size
Put the bed where it gets 6–8 hours of sun. Keep the short ends aimed north–south so rows get even light. A common width is 3–4 feet so you can reach the center without stepping in. Length is flexible; 4–12 feet is common. Leave paths wide enough for a wheelbarrow if you can.
Build Or Check The Frame
Use rot-resistant wood, metal, or stone. Aim for 6–12 inches of depth for most crops; go deeper for carrots, parsnips, and tomatoes. Add hardware cloth on the base if burrowers are a problem. Ensure drainage holes if you use a stock tank or trough.
Blend The Planting Mix
Fill with a mix that drains well and holds moisture. A simple target is half quality topsoil and half bulky organic matter like compost, with a bit of perlite for air space. Break clods. Wet the mix lightly so it settles, then top off to reach the rim minus an inch.
Map The Bed
Sketch where each crop goes before planting. Group by height and days to harvest so taller plants don’t shade short ones. Keep perennials like strawberries to one edge. Reserve a sunny corner for flowers that pull in pollinators.
Check Soil Temperature And Frost Dates
Cool-season seeds sprout in cooler soil; warm-season seeds need heat. Use a kitchen thermometer at 2 inches depth. Cross-check your zone and last frost date with the official USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. That page explains zones and links to state maps.
Plant With The Right Spacing
Raised beds shine when you space plants by mature size instead of long empty rows. Tighter spacing shades soil, keeps weeds down, and saves water. Use the guide below to set depth and distance for common crops.
Quick Spacing And Timing Guide
Use this compact table to set seeds and transplants at the right depth and distance. Soil temperature is measured about 2 inches down.
| Crop Group | Soil Temp To Plant | Spacing (Inches) |
|---|---|---|
| Leafy greens (lettuce, spinach) | 40–50°F soil | 6–8 between plants |
| Peas | 40–50°F soil | 2–3 between plants |
| Carrots & beets | 45–50°F soil | 2 between plants |
| Broccoli, cabbage family | 50–60°F soil | 16–18 between plants |
| Beans (bush) | 60°F+ soil | 3–4 between plants |
| Corn | 60°F+ soil | 8–12 between plants |
| Cucumbers & squash | 65°F+ soil | 18–24 between plants |
| Tomatoes (indeterminate) | 65°F+ soil | 24–30 between plants |
| Peppers & eggplant | 65°F+ soil | 16–18 between plants |
Set Seeds And Transplants The Smart Way
Direct-Sow Crops
Mark rows with a stick or a string line. Plant small seeds at a depth of about two to three times their size. Press soil gently, then water with a soft spray so you don’t wash seed away. Thin seedlings to the spacing in the table once the first true leaves show.
Transplants
Harden off plants for 5–7 days outdoors in dappled light. Set each transplant at the same depth it grew in the pot—except tomatoes, which can be set deeper to root along the buried stem. Backfill, firm, and water until the root ball is soaked.
Mulch Early
After seedlings take hold, add 1–2 inches of straw or shredded leaves. Mulch holds moisture, cools roots in heat, and keeps fruit clean. Leave a small ring open around stems.
Water On A Steady Rhythm
Most beds need about an inch of water per week from rain or irrigation. A simple rain gauge tells you what fell. Drip lines or soaker hoses make it easier to hit a steady target without wetting leaves. For a clear yardstick on weekly needs, see the University of Minnesota’s guide on watering the vegetable garden.
Morning Beats Late Day
Water early so leaves dry fast. That reduces leaf spots. In heat waves, check soil daily with your finger; if the top inch is dry, it’s time to water.
New Beds Dry Faster
Fresh mixes drain well and can dry between hot days. Slow, deep sessions help roots chase moisture. Short daily sprinkles train shallow roots, so save that for seed starting only.
Feed Without Overdoing It
Most mixes start rich from compost. Six to eight weeks after planting, side-dress heavy feeders like tomatoes and squash. Use a balanced, slow-release product or a light infusion of compost. Go modest with nitrogen or you’ll grow lush leaves and few fruits.
Keep Salts In Check
Bagged compost that includes manure can run salty. If leaves crisp at the edges or growth stalls, flush the bed with a long soak to move salts downward.
Trellis, Shade, And Wind Control
Vines climb gladly in a raised bed. Add a trellis on the north edge for peas, beans, and cucumbers. Use soft ties on tomatoes. In harsh sun, stretch light shade netting for a few hours each afternoon. A short windbreak on the windward side helps seedlings hold steady.
Succession Planting For A Long Harvest
Stagger plantings instead of sowing a giant batch once. Plant a new row of lettuce every two weeks. After peas finish, switch that space to bush beans. Follow garlic with late summer greens. This rhythm keeps the bed full and food rolling in.
Common Layouts That Work
Blocks Instead Of Long Rows
Plant in blocks based on spacing. For lettuce at 8 inches, set a grid with 8-inch centers. For bush beans at 4 inches, use a 4-inch grid. This style packs plants, shades soil, and boosts yield per square foot.
Tall In Back, Short In Front
On a north–south bed, put tomatoes, trellised cucumbers, or sunflowers on the north side. Then step down to peppers and basil. Keep lettuce and carrots on the south edge so they get full sun.
Mix Flowers With Veg
Add marigold, alyssum, or calendula at corners. They draw pollinators and can lure pests away from crops. They also give you easy color without shrinking your harvest.
Seasonal Timing: Cool Vs. Warm Crops
Cool-season favorites like peas, spinach, and radishes start early when soil is 40–50°F. Warm-season plants like tomatoes and peppers wait until soil holds 65°F or more. Many extension charts list the best range for each crop; zone-based timing helps you slot each sowing at the right moment.
Watering And Feeding Cheat Sheet
Scan this table when setting your weekly care plan. Adjust for heat, wind, and soil type.
| Growth Stage | Water Target | Feeding Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Seed starting & sprouts | Keep top 1/2 inch moist | No feed; rich mix is enough |
| Early vegetative | 1 inch per week total | Light compost tea if pale |
| Flowering/fruit set | 1–1.5 inches per week | Side-dress with balanced feed |
| Peak harvest | Steady moisture; no swings | Repeat light side-dress if needed |
| Late season | Back off as temps cool | Stop feeding 2–3 weeks before last pick |
Pest And Disease Basics
Start With Clean Starts
Buy sturdy transplants with thick stems and no spots. Check the undersides of leaves before you pay. Quarantine new plants for a few days if you’ve had issues in the past.
Use Barriers First
Row fabric blocks flea beetles, cabbage moths, and leaf miners. Tuck edges under stones so pests don’t slip in. Mesh over strawberries keeps birds honest.
Water The Soil, Not The Leaves
Leaf-wetness pushes many leaf spots. Drip lines, soaker hoses, and morning sessions cut the risk. Space plants so air can move.
Rotate Within The Bed
Switch plant families from one section to another each season. Follow tomatoes with beans, and follow the cabbage clan with carrots or onions. Rotation slows disease cycles and keeps nutrients in balance.
Simple Weekly Routine
On Planting Week
- Top off mix, rake smooth, and pre-water.
- Plant seeds and set transplants by the table above.
- Label rows so you can track dates and varieties.
Every Week After
- Water to reach the weekly inch, split into two deep sessions.
- Weed when seedlings are small.
- Check leaves for pests while you water.
- Prune and tie tomatoes before vines sprawl.
Troubleshooting Fast
Yellow Leaves
Could be water swings or low nitrogen. Check moisture first. If soil reads dry, give a slow soak. If growth is slow on rich moisture, add a light side-dress.
Leggy Seedlings
Plants stretched for light. Thin the shade, raise the bed’s sun exposure, or set a simple hoop with clear film for a brighter, warmer start.
Blossoms But No Fruit
Cold nights or heat can stall fruit set. Keep moisture steady and wait for a mild stretch. Flowers on tomatoes need calm air; avoid blasting them with a hose stream.
When To Replant
If a sowing fails, scrape back an inch, re-wet, and seed again once the soil temp matches the crop’s range. For warm crops after a cold snap, wait until night temps hold above 50°F.
Keep Records
Jot dates, varieties, spacing, and yield in a notebook or a notes app. Mark what worked and what didn’t. Next spring, you’ll plant smarter in the same space.