For garden potatoes, set certified seed pieces 8–12 inches apart and 3–5 inches deep, then hill, water steadily, and harvest after vines yellow.
Planting seed potatoes at home is simple once you dial in timing, soil prep, and a few reliable tricks. This guide walks you through each step—from picking disease-free seed pieces to lifting a clean, tasty crop—using proven methods that work in small beds and larger plots.
Planting Seed Potatoes In The Garden Bed: Timing & Soil
Start when the ground is workable and the top few inches are no longer sticky. Cool weather suits potatoes. Aim for soil temperatures near 10–13°C (50–55°F). That range sparks sprouting while avoiding rot in cold, soggy ground. Choose a sunny spot with loose, well-drained soil. Slightly acidic soil helps; pH around 6.0–6.5 is a sweet spot. Sandy loam is easy to shape into mounds and drains well after spring rain.
Work in finished compost to add structure. Break clods and rake a level surface before you mark rows. Skip fresh manure right before planting, as it can lead to scabby skins. If you use bagged fertilizer, follow a soil test and keep nitrogen modest so vines don’t outgrow tuber set.
Quick Planting Specs
The table below summarizes spacing, depth, and other targets you’ll use on planting day.
| Item | Target | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Soil Temperature | 10–13°C (50–55°F) | Warmer starts faster; cold, wet soil slows or rots seed. |
| Soil pH | 6.0–6.5 | Slightly acidic soil reduces scab risk. |
| Row Spacing | 75–90 cm (30–36 in) | Gives room for hilling and airflow. |
| In-Row Spacing | 20–30 cm (8–12 in) | Closer for many small tubers; wider for fewer, larger ones. |
| Planting Depth | 8–13 cm (3–5 in) | Cover with loose soil; sprouts point up. |
| Sun | 6–8 hours daily | Shaded beds run leafy with small yields. |
| Water | 2.5–3.5 cm weekly | Steady moisture during tuber bulking. |
Pick And Prepare Seed Pieces
Buy certified seed potatoes from a garden supplier or farm stand that sells planting stock. These tubers are inspected and free of common viruses. Store finds from the pantry aren’t a safe bet due to sprout inhibitors and disease carryover. Look for firm tubers with several “eyes.”
If tubers are large, cut them into chunks about the size of a golf ball, each with two to three eyes. Use a clean knife. Let the cut surfaces dry in a cool spot for a day so a dry skin forms. That corky layer reduces decay when you plant in cool spring soil.
Sprouting (Chitting) For A Head Start
Set seed pieces in a bright, cool room to form short, sturdy sprouts before planting. Egg cartons make handy trays. Guidance from the RHS potato guide aligns with this approach. Aim for stubby sprouts around 1–2 cm long.
Lay Out Rows And Plant
Mark rows with string so you can keep lines straight for later hilling. Pull a shallow trench 8–13 cm deep. Place seed pieces eyes up, spacing 20–30 cm. Backfill with loose soil and pat gently. If frost is still possible, a light layer of straw helps buffer cold nights.
Water And Feed Without Overdoing It
Water after planting to settle soil. Keep moisture steady, especially as shoots reach 10–15 cm tall. Slow, deep sessions beat daily sprinkles. If you feed, band a balanced garden blend in the trench first or side-dress once plants are growing. Too much nitrogen leads to lush vines and fewer tubers.
Hill For Bigger, Cleaner Yields
Once stems reach about 15 cm, pull soil up around them to form a ridge. Leave the top leaves exposed. Repeat every couple of weeks until the ridge stands 15–20 cm tall. Hilling keeps forming tubers covered, stops greening, and smothers small weeds. In light soils, a mix of soil and straw works well and saves effort.
Watering And Mulch Strategy
Potatoes thrive with consistent moisture. Aim for 2.5–3.5 cm of water weekly from rain or irrigation. The critical window is from flowering through bulking. Use your finger to check the top 5–8 cm of soil; if it’s dry, water. A mulch layer of straw or shredded leaves keeps moisture even and moderates heat as days warm.
Know When To Harvest
For tender “new” potatoes, start checking two to three weeks after plants bloom. Gently dig beside the hill and feel for egg- to plum-sized tubers. For storage, wait until vines turn yellow and begin to dry down. Lift with a fork on a dry day, working from the edge to avoid spearing tubers. Let the skins dry on the soil surface for a short spell before moving to shade.
Rotate, Scout, And Keep Beds Clean
Rotate nightshade crops—potatoes, tomatoes, peppers—on a three-year cycle if you can. Rotation lowers disease carryover in the soil. Pull and bin any plants that stay stunted or show mosaic patterns. Keep beds weeded to improve airflow and make hilling easier.
Water And Feeding Calendar (Practical Guide)
Use the schedule below as a starting point and adjust to your climate and soil.
| Stage | What To Do | Why It Helps |
|---|---|---|
| Planting To Emergence | Light, steady moisture; no heavy feed | Prevents rot while sprouts establish. |
| 10–20 cm Tall | Begin hilling; water deeply once or twice weekly | Builds ridges and drives roots down. |
| Bud & Bloom | Keep 2.5–3.5 cm water weekly; light side-dress if needed | Promotes tuber initiation. |
| Bulking | Hold moisture even; no big nitrogen boosts | Reduces hollow heart and misshapes. |
| Dry-Down | Ease off watering | Firms skins for storage. |
Common Mistakes To Avoid
Cold, saturated soil slows sprouting and invites decay. Wait for that 10–13°C soil range and use raised rows to drain spring showers. Without a ridge, tubers sit near the surface and turn green. Late soaking promotes soft skins and storage losses—ease off once vines yellow.
Smart Variety Choices
Early types like ‘Rocket’ and ‘Swift’ reach the plate fast. Midseason standbys like ‘Yukon Gold’ balance flavor and yield. Maincrop keepers like ‘Kennebec’ store well. Match your choice to your bed size and your cooking plans.
Bed Layouts That Work
Classic rows are easy to hill and irrigate. In raised beds, form a central ridge and pull mix from the sides as stems grow. In containers, use a 40–50 L bag with holes, plant three small pieces, and add mix as stems elongate. Keep water even in all setups.
Pest And Disease Basics
Scout weekly. Hand-pick beetles into soapy water. Keep foliage dry to limit blight. Space rows for airflow. Clean tools after working in wet foliage. Remove any plants that collapse early; don’t compost suspect vines.
Storage After Harvest
For keepers, brush off soil and cure in a dark, airy space at cool room temperature for about a week. After curing, move to a cooler room with moderate humidity. Keep tubers in breathable bags or vented bins.
Yield Planning And Seed Math
Ten pounds of seed can plant roughly 15–25 meters of row, depending on spacing. Yields swing with weather, variety, and care. Many home growers pull 0.5–1 kg of tubers per 30 cm of row.
Step-By-Step: From First Warm Day To First Meal
- Prep the bed, mark straight rows, and lay any drip lines.
- Cut large tubers into chunks with two to three eyes; dry the cuts.
- Pre-sprout indoors until sprouts reach 1–2 cm.
- Plant 8–13 cm deep, pieces every 20–30 cm, eyes up; water.
- Hill to 15–20 cm over several passes and add straw.
- Keep moisture even through bloom and bulking.
- Harvest new spuds after bloom; for storage, wait for yellowing vines.
Trusted Reference Points
Depth, spacing, and hilling targets in this guide match long-running advice from research-backed sources. See the University of Maine home-garden bulletin for details on soil temperature, spacing, and ridge building.