Planting ground covers successfully means clearing weeds first, then setting each plant at its container depth in staggered rows.
Ground covers earn their keep by smothering weeds and blanketing bare soil, but they lose the battle if you skip the early steps. The common failure isn’t the planting itself — it’s the weeds and turf left behind. Clearing the site thoroughly before you dig is the difference between a carpet that fills in and a patchy mess you fight for years.
Prepare the Site Before Planting
Established weeds and grass will outcompete young ground covers, so removing them is the critical first step. Perennial weeds are especially troublesome because ground covers compete poorly with them while getting established. Remove the existing vegetation by hand, with a sod cutter, or by smothering it with cardboard and mulch well before planting day.
Once the site is clear, loosen the soil to roughly 8–10 inches deep. Work in organic matter while you’re at it — University of Maryland Extension recommends incorporating compost or other organic material to improve soil structure and fertility. A 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure turned into the bed gives young plants a strong start.
Set Plants at the Right Depth and Spacing
Plant each ground cover at the same depth it grew in its container. Burying the crown invites rot, and planting too shallow leaves roots exposed to dry out. Gently firm the soil around each rootball and water thoroughly right after planting to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
Spacing depends on the species’ mature spread, growth rate, and how quickly you need coverage — there is no universal number. Stagger the plants in diamond rows rather than straight lines; this pattern gives the quickest fill and prevents the bare diagonal gaps straight rows often leave. Check the plant tag for mature width and space accordingly, then read the rest of this section for the timing that makes it all work.
When to Plant and How to Keep New Plants Alive
Spring and fall are the best planting windows for most ground covers. Fall planting takes advantage of cooler temperatures and natural rainfall, which reduces your watering duty. Summer planting works but demands more frequent irrigation while roots establish.
Keep the soil evenly moist until the planting is established — typically one to two growing seasons. New plants have small root systems and dry out fast. Mulch around the plants helps retain moisture and suppresses the weeds that would otherwise compete, and Illinois Extension notes that a layer of mulch or fiber netting is particularly important on slopes where exposed soil can erode before the ground cover knits together.
For severe weed pressure before planting, some guidance suggests herbicide or solarization — but treat those as site-prep options, not planting requirements, and follow label directions and local rules.
| Planting Step | Key Detail | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Clear weeds and turf | Remove all vegetation first | Ground covers lose to established weeds |
| Loosen soil | Work to 8–10 inches deep | Roots penetrate and anchor better |
| Add organic matter | 2 inches of compost or manure | Improves structure, drainage, fertility |
| Set depth | Match container soil line | Prevents crown rot or dried roots |
| Space plants | Staggered rows by mature spread | Quickest coverage, no bare gaps |
| Water thoroughly | Keep soil moist until established | Small roots dry out fast |
| Mulch | Layer of mulch or fiber netting | Suppresses weeds, prevents erosion |
Planting season and water needs vary by species, so check your specific ground cover’s requirements before setting it in the ground. For a tighter timeline on coverage, small purple flowering ground cover options often establish quickly and add color while they spread.
Mix species rather than planting a single monoculture. University of Maryland Extension recommends a blend because a mix is more resilient — if one species struggles with a pest or disease, the others carry the planting. This matters more than many gardeners realize, since a uniform bed of one plant can fail completely when a problem hits.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Leaving weeds or turf in place — they outcompete young plants.
- Planting too densely — overcrowding wastes money and stresses plants.
- Straight rows instead of staggered — diagonal gaps take longer to fill.
- Wrong planting depth — too shallow dries roots; too deep rots crowns.
- Neglecting irrigation — summer plantings and the first season need steady moisture.
- Skipping mulch — exposed soil invites weeds and erodes on slopes.
Planting ground covers is a once-per-bed investment. The hours spent clearing weeds and preparing soil pay off as the planting fills in and takes over the weed-suppression job itself.
FAQs
How long does it take for ground cover to fill in?
Most ground covers need one to two growing seasons to establish and spread across the planted area. Faster-growing species with wider mature spreads can knit together sooner, while slower spreaders take longer. Spacing farther apart extends the wait — closer staggered spacing gives quicker coverage but costs more plants.
Can I plant ground cover on a slope?
Yes, but slopes need extra protection while the plants establish. Mulch or fiber netting holds soil in place and prevents erosion before roots knit the ground together. Without it, heavy rain can wash away both soil and young plants before they get a foothold.
Do I need to remove grass before planting ground cover?
Yes. Leaving grass or weeds in place guarantees competition for water and nutrients, and established vegetation usually wins. Remove the turf completely — by hand, sod cutter, or smothering — before you plant.
References & Sources
- University of Maryland Extension. “Groundcovers.” Recommends species diversity and site preparation for resilient plantings.
- Illinois Extension. “Ground Covers.” Details soil preparation and erosion control on slopes.