To build a brick garden bed, map the size, set a level base, stack or mortar the bricks, then fill with a rich, well-drained mix.
Bricks make tidy edges, hold soil, and look good through seasons. A brick bed also warms early, drains well, and stays neat beside paths or lawn. This guide covers planning, layout, base prep, wall building, and soil filling. You’ll see ways to keep costs in check and tips that prevent wobble, bulge, or soggy corners.
Making A Brick Garden Bed: Sizing And Layout
Pick a spot with at least six hours of sun for vegetables, or morning sun and light shade for greens and herbs. Keep the bed away from large roots and underground lines. A common footprint is 4 by 8 feet so you can reach the middle from both sides without stepping on soil. Leave paths wide enough for a wheelbarrow if space allows.
Measure the space, then mark the outline with string and stakes. Check square by comparing diagonals; if both match, the rectangle is square. Decide on height. One to two brick courses works for shallow crops, while three or four courses give room for tomatoes and peppers. Taller walls need better anchoring and may call for mortar or a cap.
Materials And Tools Checklist
Count bricks by perimeter and height. Standard modular bricks are about 7 5/8 inches long, so fifteen units span ten feet before joints. Order extras for cuts and breakage. For a clean look and better longevity, choose solid clay pavers or face brick, not crumbly salvage.
| Item | Typical Quantity | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Bricks (clay paver or face) | Perimeter ÷ 0.635 ft × courses | Wall units |
| Base gravel (3/4 in.) | 2–3 in. layer | Drainage and leveling |
| Coarse sand | 1 in. layer | Bedding layer |
| Landscape fabric (optional) | Bed footprint | Weed barrier under base |
| Mortar mix (optional) | As needed | Bonding for taller walls |
| Cap stones or soldier course (optional) | Perimeter | Finish and stiffness |
| Rebar pins (optional) | Every 2–3 ft | Extra anchoring on slopes |
| Tools | Level, mallet, square, spade, rake | Layout and build |
Plan The Base So The Bed Lasts
A stable base keeps the wall true. Strip sod and roots inside the outline. Dig down 4–6 inches for the trench if you want two or more courses. On clay ground, dig a bit deeper and widen the trench, then tamp the bottom. Add 2–3 inches of compacted gravel. Add an inch of damp sand and screed it flat using a board riding on temporary rails.
On patios or concrete, skip the gravel and use a thin sand bed. Set up drainage so water can leave the bed. Leave small weep gaps between bricks at the lowest course if you plan to mortar the joints.
Dry-Stack Or Mortar: Pick A Build Method
Dry-stacking is quick and forgiving. Minor gaps let water bleed off, which helps on wet sites. Mortared walls feel solid and hold shape under bumps and frost. For beds taller than two bricks, a bonded wall or a mortared core gives better strength. Keep the face level course by course so the top stays even.
Set the first course on the sand bed, pressing each unit with a mallet and checking level across and along the run. Stagger joints on the next course. For tight curves, switch to half bricks or thinner pavers and tighten joints to keep a smooth arc.
When Mortar Makes Sense
Use mortar for tall beds, heavy caps, or spots near play areas where a hard bump is likely. Butter only what you can place within a few minutes so the bond stays fresh. Strike joints slightly recessed to shed water. If you plan a cap, leave joints full at the top for better grip.
Soil Depth, Mix, And Drainage
Most herbs and leafy crops grow well with 8–12 inches of loose soil above the native grade. Deeper-rooted plants need more headroom. Mix screened compost with a quality growing mix for most beds. If the wall stands on pavement, fill the full height; if the bed sits on ground, loosen the subsoil first so roots can reach below.
A reliable blend for many crops is one part finished compost and one part soilless mix. In deeper frames, add up to one fifth screened topsoil for structure. Keep pH near neutral and top up with fresh compost each season. Shape a gentle crown so rain sheds to the edges without pooling at the center. See the depth notes in the UMN Extension raised bed guide.
Health And Safety Checks
Old urban lots can carry lead from paint and past traffic. Test soil where kids play or where food crops will grow. If levels are moderate, plant fruiting crops and add organic matter, keep dust down, and set mulch to limit splash. Keep pH near 6.0–7.0 to reduce uptake. If levels are high, grow in a lined bed with fresh mix or plant ornamentals instead. The updated screening approach is summarized by the EPA here: soil lead guidance.
Build Steps You Can Follow Today
1) Map And Mark
Sketch the plan, choose height, and list materials. Mark the area with stakes and string. Check for square and adjust until the diagonals match. Mark any curves with a hose, then trace with marking paint.
2) Excavate And Compact
Strip sod and dig the trench. Keep the bottom flat. Tamp in two passes. If rain is due, cover the trench so sides don’t slump.
3) Add Gravel And Sand
Pour in gravel, rake level, and compact. Lay an inch of damp sand and screed level. Remove the screed rails and fill the grooves.
4) Set The First Course
Start at a corner. Set the first brick into the sand, tap until level, then work along the line. Use a long level and a straight board. Every few units, check both directions so the course stays flat.
5) Stagger And Stack
Lay the next course with joints offset by half a brick. Use shims of sand to fine-tune height. On long runs, pull string lines to keep the face straight. Stop and adjust early if you see a bow.
6) Tie Corners And Curves
Interlock corners by alternating the overlap on each course. For a curve, use narrower joints and partial units. Keep the outer face smooth; small shape shifts hide on the inside.
7) Add Mortar Or Cap (Optional)
Mix small batches if you choose mortar. Butter the ends and bed joints, press units in, and strike joints once the mix firms up. Set a stone or brick cap in a thin bed for a finished lip that sheds water.
8) Line, Fill, And Plant
Line the inside with geotextile if you want to keep soil from washing through. Fill in lifts, watering and settling between loads. Mix in slow-release fertilizer if your crop needs it. Rake level, water again, then plant on a simple grid so roots have room.
Smart Design Tips That Save Work
Break large gardens into multiple small beds so you can rotate crops and reach every plant without stepping on soil. Keep width to 3–4 feet for easy reach. A taller wall near a path saves bending. Use a straight soldier course or bullnose cap so hoses and carts glide past without snagging. Plan for water with a drip line under mulch and a shutoff at the head of the bed.
Brick Choices And Sizing Math
Clay pavers resist freeze-thaw and hold up to foot traffic. Many builders pick the common modular size near 7 5/8 by 3 5/8 by 2 1/4 inches. That size lets you hit even foot lengths with minimal cutting when you stagger joints. Dry-fit a few rows on the ground to confirm your count before you buy a full pallet.
Here’s a quick way to estimate needs. Convert the perimeter to inches, divide by the exposed brick length, then multiply by the number of courses. Add five to ten percent for waste, cuts, and future swaps. If you plan a cap, count those units by perimeter and add corner pieces.
Soil Depth Guide By Crop Type
| Crop Group | Minimum Depth | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Leafy greens, radish, bush beans | 8–12 in. | Shallow roots; dries faster |
| Peppers, eggplant, cucumbers | 12–18 in. | Needs steady moisture |
| Tomatoes, squash, root crops | 18–24 in. | Deeper mix adds stability |
Drainage, Frost, And Wear
Water builds pressure behind solid walls. Add weep gaps or a thin gravel backfill to relieve it. In cold regions, a compacted base and good drainage keep freeze lift in check. Where kids run or carts clip the edge, add a cap with a slight overhang to guard the face. In sloped yards, terrace with short beds instead of one tall bank.
What To Do Before You Dig
Call the local utility marking line if you plan to dig near service routes. Wear gloves, eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting or sweeping. Keep kids and pets away from the job area during mixing and cutting. If you work with salvage units, rinse off dust and avoid crumbling stock that may weaken the wall.