How To Make A Garden Bridge From Pallets | Weekend Build

Want a simple footbridge that looks charming, costs little, and goes together with basic tools? This guide walks you from plan to finish coat using reclaimed pallet boards and a few pieces of structural lumber. You’ll see how to choose safe pallets, size the span, prep a stable base, and assemble a bridge that’s sturdy underfoot and easy on the eye.

Project At A Glance

Item	Specs	Notes
Finished size	4–6 ft span; 24–36 in wide	Works over dry creek, swale, or garden bed
Pallets	Two to four, heat-treated (HT) only	Look for IPPC/HT stamp; avoid MB
Main runners	Two 2×8 or 2×10 PT beams	Length = span + ramps
Deck boards	1×4 to 1×6 pallet slats	Gap 1/4 in for drainage
Stringers/joists	2×4 PT crosspieces	12–16 in on-center
Posts/rails	4×4 posts; 2×4 rails	Optional but helpful for footing
Hardware	Exterior screws; exterior brackets	Use hot-dip galvanized or stainless
Finish	Exterior stain/sealant	UV and water protection
Base	Compact gravel pads or pavers	Keeps runners off wet soil
Tools	Saw, drill/driver, square, level	Clamps helpful

Safety And Material Choices

Pick pallets with a clear HT stamp so you’re working with heat-treated wood, not chemical fumigation. Avoid any boards with dark oil stains, chemical odors, heavy mold, or loose nails. For structure, pair the pallet slats with pressure-treated runners and joists rated for outdoor use. Match fasteners to the treatment: stainless or hot-dip galvanized screws and connectors resist corrosion far better than uncoated steel.

Plan a footprint that fits the site. A 4–6 ft span keeps the build quick and the parts light. Keep the walkway wide enough for comfortable steps—30 inches is a sweet spot for small gardens. If the crossing is soggy, design shallow ramps at both ends and raise the deck on compacted gravel pads so water never sits around the wood.

Building A Pallet Garden Bridge — Safe Span And Size

Here’s a sizing rule that keeps things simple: use two 2×8 runners for spans up to five feet, or two 2×10 runners for spans up to seven feet, with 12–16 inch spacing for the 2×4 joists that hold the pallet slats. That layout feels solid underfoot and leaves room for a shallow arch if you want one. For longer crossings, switch to heavier lumber and add a center pier rather than pushing the limits.

Tools And Materials Explained

Pallet Selection

Scan the side stringers for the HT mark and a country code. Skip pallets with MB on the stamp. Pick units with straight runners and tight slats; hairline checks are fine, but deep splits near nail holes shorten the life of the deck.

Runner Lumber

Pressure-treated 2×8 or 2×10 stock carries the frame. Choose pieces with minimal crown and twist. If you plan a gentle arch, mark both boards together so the curves match.

Fasteners And Brackets

Use exterior screws for every structural joint and decking slat. Where you need angles, choose exterior-rated brackets that match the screw coating. Mix-and-match metals can stain wood and weaken joints over time.

Step-By-Step Build

1) Source And Prep Pallets

Check local classifieds, big-box garden centers, and small hardware stores; ask for HT-stamped pallets in decent shape. Pry off cracked slats and de-nail carefully. Plane or sand the faces smooth so they’re safe to walk on. Sort your boards by thickness so the deck sits at one height later.

2) Lay Out The Site

Mark the span and walkway width with stakes and string. Scrape off sod, add four to six inches of compactable gravel where the runner ends will sit, and level it. If your soil holds water, set concrete pavers over the gravel so the wood never touches mud.

3) Cut The Runners

Rip two pressure-treated 2×8s or 2×10s to the full span plus the length of both ramps. If you’d like a gentle arch, snap a curve and cut both pieces together so they match. Bevel the ends for ramps that meet the ground without a toe-stubber edge.

4) Add Crosspieces

Install 2×4 joists between the runners at 12–16 inches on-center. Check square as you go. Predrill and drive exterior-rated screws through galvanized angle brackets or toe-screw the joints. A rigid rectangle now is the best insurance for a flat, squeak-free deck later.

5) Set The Frame

Carry the frame to the site and rest it on the gravel pads or pavers. Shim with composite shims until the runners land solidly with no rock. Check both level and diagonal measurements. If you added an arch, keep the crown up.

6) Deck With Pallet Slats

Start at the center and work outward so any tiny out-of-square error splits to both sides. Leave a 1/4 inch gap between boards for drainage. Where slats end, stagger the joints for a strong, tidy look. Predrill close to edges to prevent splits.

7) Add Rails (Optional)

For a small span, low rails add comfort and style. Bolt short 4×4 posts to the inside faces of the runners, then screw 2×4 rails to the posts. Keep the top rail near mid-thigh height for natural balance. Cap the rail with a rounded over edge so it’s friendly to the touch.

8) Seal The Wood

Brush or roll on a penetrating exterior stain or clear sealer, hitting cut ends thoroughly. Two light coats beat one heavy coat. Refresh the finish each spring, and the bridge will keep its color and shed water well.

Site Prep And Foundation Tips

Good footing matters more than fancy joinery. Firm sub-bases stop seasonal heave from twisting your frame. On clay, dig a bit deeper and use more crushed stone. In sandy soil, use geotextile under the gravel so it doesn’t vanish into the subgrade. If you expect washouts, pin the runners to the ground with rebar stakes through concealed brackets.

Hardware, Fasteners, And Long-Life Choices

Outdoor chemicals in treated lumber can eat mild steel. Choose fasteners labeled for exterior treated wood. For coastal gardens or wet sites, stainless keeps hardware from staining the wood and snapping years later. Where you use brackets, match the coating grade to the fasteners so dissimilar metals don’t set up an ugly corrosion cell.

Design Tweaks That Add Charm

Curve The Profile

A shallow arc across the runners looks graceful and sheds water. Snap a long, gentle curve with a flexible batten and trace it to both pieces before cutting. Keep the middle rise low so the deck stays sure-footed.

Blend The Approaches

Feather the ramps into the path with compacted screenings. Add flat stones as landings so the first step feels natural. Round over the deck edges with a router bit or sanding block so shoes don’t catch.

Lighting And Planting

Stake small solar lights at both approaches for dusk strolls. Tuck in low growers—thyme, mazus, blue star creeper—that knit to the edges without hiding the wood. Keep shrubs trimmed so sightlines stay open.

Time, Cost, And Skill Level

A weekend is realistic for a 4–6 ft build, including finish. With free pallets and store-bought lumber for the structure, most budgets land in the modest range. Patience with layout and square cuts matters more than fancy carpentry. A circular saw, a drill/driver, and a sharp pencil carry most of the load here.

Span And Joist Planning Guide

Joist Size	Max Span @ 16" o.c.	Use Case
2×4 PT	Up to 8–9.5 ft	Short crosspieces under slats
2×6 PT	Up to 9.5–12 ft	Heavier slats or wider bridges
2×8 PT	Up to 12–15 ft	Main runners for longer spans*

*Use conservatively for small garden walkways; add a center pier for spans beyond seven feet.

Maintenance Checklist

Each spring, sweep debris out of the gaps and rinse the deck. Tighten any proud screws. Where finish looks dull, clean and re-coat. If a slat cracks, swap it in minutes: back out the screws, cut a replacement to length, sand the edges, and refasten.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Squeaks Or Flex

Check joist spacing first. If spans grew during the build, add a mid-span crosspiece or a sleeper under the weakest spot. Loose screws also squeak; back them out and replace with fresh, longer screws.

Slippery After Rain

Sand with 80-grit to knock down mill glaze, then add a grit-additive to your next coat of sealer. Thin, even coats cure better than thick ones.

End Grain Wicking Water

Bridge ends darkening or checking? Seal cut ends with extra care. A small drip edge routed on the underside of the ramps also helps shed water.

Why Pallet Wood Works Here

Pallet slats give you character and low cost, while the structural lumber underneath does the heavy lifting. That split makes the deck look handmade without asking salvaged boards to span big gaps. When you match the right screws, keep the base dry, and refresh the finish yearly, a small backyard bridge built this way stays solid and handsome for seasons on end.

References You Can Trust

Look for the HT stamp that proves heat treatment under the international packaging standard; it’s your signal that the wood wasn’t fumigated (ISPM-15 heat treatment). And when you pick hardware, lean on manufacturer corrosion data so your fasteners match the treatment chemicals in outdoor lumber (corrosion guidance). Those two checks—stamp and screw type—prevent the most common early failures in small outdoor builds.