How to Use a Concrete Drill Bit? | Hole-Making the Right Way

The number one mistake people make when drilling concrete is grabbing a standard twist bit and a regular drill. That combination will spin uselessly, generate heat, and barely scratch the surface. The right tool for the job is a carbide-tipped masonry bit used with a hammer drill or rotary hammer that delivers the percussive force concrete needs. This guide covers the bit and tool you need, the exact step-by-step process for a clean hole, and the common mistakes that ruin bits and waste your time.

The Right Bit and Drill Setup for Concrete

You need two things to drill concrete successfully: a carbide masonry bit and a hammer drill or rotary hammer. A regular drill lacks the impact action; a twist bit lacks the carbide tip.

Masonry bits for concrete come with different shank types. Bosch, a major tool manufacturer, explains that concrete and stone work requires hammer drill bits with SDS-plus, SDS-top, or SDS-max fittings. These SDS shanks are designed to lock securely into the chuck of a compatible rotary hammer or SDS hammer drill, allowing the tool to transfer maximum impact energy to the bit. A standard round shank bit will not fit these tools correctly.

If you’re using a standard hammer drill (not a rotary hammer) with a three-jaw chuck, you’ll need a masonry bit with a standard round shank. The key is matching the bit’s shank to your tool’s chuck system.

Step-by-Step: How to Drill Into Concrete

Here is the sequence that works, whether you’re hanging a shelf or mounting a fixture.

1. Mark the spot. Use a pencil or marker to clearly mark the exact location for your hole.
2. Set the drill to hammer mode. If your drill has a selector switch, choose the hammer or impact drilling setting. This activates the percussive action needed for concrete.
3. Start slow. Begin drilling at a low speed to create a pilot indentation. This prevents the bit from skating across the smooth concrete surface. Per Bosch’s guidance, for a small hole diameter you can increase to a high speed, while a large hole diameter should be drilled at a low speed.
4. Keep it perpendicular. Hold the drill at a ninety-degree angle to the wall or floor, maintaining a straight line. Avoid applying lateral or sideways pressure, which can cause the bit to bind or break.
5. Use steady, moderate pressure. Let the drill and bit do the work. Apply consistent, light-to-moderate forward pressure—enough to keep the bit cutting, but not so much that you force it.
6. Clear the dust. Periodically withdraw the bit from the hole to allow the flutes to pull out debris and dust. This also helps cool the bit and prevents it from binding. A good rhythm is to pull the bit out every ten to fifteen seconds, matching MasterClass’s guidance.
7. Confirm the depth. Check your hole’s depth against your mark or a piece of tape on the bit, then continue drilling until you’ve reached it.

When the drilling is done, you should have a clean, round hole with straight, perpendicular walls.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even with the right technique, a few common errors can ruin your bit or your hole.

• Using the wrong bit. A regular twist bit is for wood and metal, not concrete. Always use a masonry bit with a carbide tip. Also, ensure the bit’s shank (SDS-plus, SDS-max, etc.) is compatible with your drill’s chuck.
• Applying too much force. Forcing the drill or applying heavy lateral pressure can damage the bit’s carbide tip or cause it to wander. Let the hammering action do the cutting.
• Drilling too fast at the start. Starting at full speed makes the bit skip across the surface. Begin slowly to seat the bit, then increase speed.
• Ignoring the dust. Not clearing the hole slows progress and increases heat and wear on the bit. Regularly withdrawing the bit to clear debris is essential.

When you’re ready to purchase a high-quality bit, our tested roundup of the best concrete drill bits for the job can help you choose the right one for your project.

What About Hitting Rebar?

Hitting a piece of steel rebar buried in the concrete is an unwelcome surprise that can stop your progress or damage your bit. The material difference is often clear—the drill will suddenly stop advancing or make a distinctly different, higher-pitched sound.

According to DREBO’s guidance, when drilling rebar, you should not try to force the bit through. Instead, the drill bit should be raised every 10 to 20 seconds. This lifting action helps manage the stress on the bit. If the bit struggles to progress, you may need a drill bit designed for metal to get through the rebar, after which you can switch back to your masonry bit.

Safety and Dust Control

Drilling concrete is a dusty job. MasterClass recommends wearing eye protection and a respiratory filter to protect yourself from the fine silica dust. Setting up a vacuum or a dust-control system near the hole will also keep your work area cleaner and reduce the amount of dust you breathe in. A dust mask or respirator is a non-negotiable piece of safety gear for any concrete work.