How To Make A Garden Fence Out Of Chicken Wire | Easy Build

Want a budget fence that keeps greens safe? Poultry netting works when you match mesh size, height, and anchoring to the animals in your area. This guide shows the build from layout to gates.

What You’ll Need And Why It Matters

Buy galvanized materials for weather resistance. Pair light mesh with stout posts so the fence stays tight through wind and rain.

Item	Recommended Specs	Why It Helps
Mesh	1" poultry netting, 20–22 gauge; or 1/2"–1/4" hardware cloth for burrowers	Small openings block rabbits and young pests; thicker cloth resists chewing and digging
Posts	Pressure-treated 4×4 wood or steel T-posts, 6–8 ft long	Height plus depth set overall fence strength and lifespan
Fasteners	Fence staples for wood; heavy zip ties or wire ties for T-posts	Secure attachment keeps mesh taut and quiet in wind
Top line	12-gauge smooth wire or 1×2 wood cap	Stops sag and gives a straight reference line
Bottom edge	Landscape pins, buried skirt, or trench with hardware cloth	Prevents lift-ups and blocks diggers
Gate	3–4 ft wide wood frame with diagonal brace	Comfortable access for barrows and wheelbarrows
Tools	Post hole digger, level, string line, staple gun, fencing pliers	Clean cuts, straight lines, and safe tensioning

Plan The Layout And Height

Sketch the bed or perimeter. Mark corners with stakes. Run string lines and measure each span, then count rolls and posts. Place posts 6–8 feet apart on straight runs, closer on curves. On long sides, a center brace or an extra post keeps the mesh flat.

Match height to the animals you see. For rabbit pressure, 24–30 inches of mesh works when openings are 1 inch or less, aligning with Iowa State guidance. For deer, add height or a second line; chicken wire can be the lower guard with taller netting or rails above. If burrowers show up, add a buried skirt of hardware cloth along the base.

Building A Garden Barrier With Poultry Netting: Size And Height

Mesh choice sets success. One-inch hex openings stop bites on tender stems and keep small heads out. Lightweight 20–22 gauge netting bends easily around posts yet holds shape once stretched. Where chewing is common, step up to welded hardware cloth at the lower 18–24 inches or line the base only.

Set Strong Corners First

Good corners make straight sides. Dig corner post holes 24–30 inches deep. Drop gravel for drainage. Set posts and check plumb on two faces. Backfill and tamp in lifts so the post won’t drift. On long runs, add a brace and a diagonal to keep the corner square.

Run The Line And Place Intermediate Posts

With corners set, pull a tight string between them. Mark intermediate spots at 6–8 feet. Drive T-posts until the anchor blades are buried. For wood line posts, set them 18–24 inches deep with tamped soil or fast-setting mix. Keep post tops at a consistent height so the finished fence looks level across uneven ground.

Attach And Tension The Mesh

Roll out netting along the run with 6–12 inches extra length. Start at a corner. Align the bottom and fasten from top to bottom, then every 6 inches down the post. Twist wire ties on T-posts or drive 3/4-inch staples on wood posts at a slight angle.

Keep the mesh level with the string line. At the next post, pull by hand first, then use a temporary 2×2 as a lever: board on edge against the mesh, clamp, and pry to take out slack. Tie or staple while the tension holds. Work post by post, checking that the bottom line stays straight.

Secure The Bottom Edge

The base is where most breaches start. On firm soil, pin the bottom every 12–18 inches with landscape staples. For digging pests, trench 8–12 inches and bury a skirt of 1/2-inch hardware cloth, bent into an L that faces outward. Many extension sheets call for deeper barriers on tough diggers; one common depth is 18 inches in the Arizona guide.

Build A Simple Gate That Doesn’t Sag

Cut two uprights and two rails to make a rectangle 36–42 inches wide. Add a diagonal from the lower hinge side up to the latch side. Skin the frame with the same mesh, then add a wood stop on the latch post so the gate seals the opening. Hang with two strap hinges and set the latch so it closes with a push from your hip when your hands are full.

Make The Top Line Straight

Chicken wire sags without a spine. Run a smooth wire or screw a 1×2 cap along the top. On wire, twist tensioners near corners to snug the span, then tie the mesh to the top line every 12 inches. A wood cap also protects hands from cut wire ends and gives a crisp look.

Weatherproofing And Longevity

Use hot-dipped galvanized mesh and matching fasteners. Seal cut ends with cold galvanizing compound. Where soil stays wet, lift the bottom edge on pavers inside the fence or add a gravel strip for drainage. Trim grass along the fence so the mesh dries fast after rain.

Smart Dimensions For Common Pests

Heights and openings change with the pest. Rabbits need small mesh and a snug base. Deer bring jump height. Groundhogs and gophers bring digging. Use the quick guide below to match your build to the problem you have now.

Pest	Fence Height	Base Strategy
Rabbits	24–30 in of 1" mesh	Pin edge, or 8–12 in buried skirt
Groundhogs/Gophers	36 in with welded cloth on lower 18–24 in	Bury 18–24 in of 1/2" cloth in an outward L
Deer	6–8 ft total using added rails or netting above	Angle top rail outward or use a second offset line
Pets/Chickens	36–48 in	Close gaps at gates; add bottom board if needed

Gate Placement And Traffic Flow

Put the gate where you naturally push a barrow. If the path slopes, hang the gate to swing uphill so it doesn’t drag. Add a stop block for a repeatable close, and a hook to hold it open during harvest days.

Safety And Handling

Wear gloves and eye protection when cutting wire. Set posts clear of buried utilities. When using a post driver, keep two hands on the handles and feet spread for balance. Keep kids and pets away until sharp ends are capped or turned.

Common Mistakes To Avoid

Gaps at the base invite entry. Loose corners ripple down the whole run. Post spacing that’s too wide lets wind make the mesh thrum and flex. A gate without a diagonal brace will sag and rub. Fasteners set straight into the grain can split a post; angle them so the wood holds tight.

Cost, Time, And Sizing Your Materials

Budget a weekend for a small bed and a day for a simple rectangle under 50 feet per side. A 50-foot roll of 1-inch mesh usually covers a small kitchen plot. Count posts at one every 6–8 feet plus four for corners and two for the gate. Add a spare roll if your plan includes curves or terraced ground.

Proof-Backed Specs You Can Trust

Rabbits squeeze through big openings, which is why 1-inch netting and 24 inches of height are common picks in land-grant material. Where diggers are common, bury welded cloth 18 inches deep along the fence line. Those two tweaks solve most garden losses.

Care And Quick Repairs

Walk the fence monthly. Tighten ties on loose panels. Patch holes with a square of mesh that overlaps by six inches. If a post leans, brace it with a screw-on cleat, then re-tamp once soil moisture drops. Keep vines off the wire so weight doesn’t pull the top line out of level.

Step-By-Step Build Summary

1) Layout

Stake corners, pull string lines, measure spans, and mark post spots.

2) Set Corners

Dig, set, plumb, and brace. Let any mix set while you stage tools.

3) Place Line Posts

Install posts on marks, keeping tops aligned for a clean sight line.

4) Hang Mesh

Start at a corner, fasten top and bottom, then every 6 inches. Pull and tie at each post.

5) Lock The Base

Pin, board, or bury a skirt so animals can’t lift or dig under.

6) Cap The Top

Add a wire or wood cap to stop sag and protect hands.

7) Install The Gate

Build a braced frame, skin with mesh, hang square, and set the latch.

When Chicken Wire Isn’t Enough

In deer country, add height with a second material above the netting or set a second parallel line a few feet outside the first to create depth. Where rodents chew through thin wire, switch the lower band to welded cloth. In snake territory, reduce openings to 1/4 inch at the base and keep gaps at the latch closed.

Simple Design Tweaks That Pay Off

• Add a treated 2×6 inside the fence as a mowing strip and soil stop.
• Turn sharp cut ends around a wire above or down toward soil.
• Paint wood posts before hanging mesh so fasteners bite cleanly.
• Place beds at least 18 inches from the fence for a walk lane.