How to Make a Chicken Feeder? | Two Proven Builds

For the full breakdown, see our best DIY Chicken Feeder guide.

Building your own chicken feeder saves money and lets you size it to your flock. Two designs dominate backyard coop builds: the bucket-and-tray style and the PVC pipe feeder. Both funnel feed so birds eat from dedicated openings rather than scratching it everywhere. Before buying another galvanized trough, consider a weekend project that uses hardware store parts you may already own.

The 5-Gallon Bucket Feeder

A bucket feeder works on gravity. Feed sits inside the bucket and flows out through holes cut near the bottom edge. A tray or shallow pan catches the feed as it exits. Chickens eat from the tray, and as they lower the feed level, more flows down to replace it.

Start with a clean 5-gallon bucket, a sturdy tray or pan roughly 3 inches deep, a drill with a hole saw bit, and screws or bolts. A flat-bottomed plastic pan from a feed store works well, but any shallow, food-safe container does the job.

Mark 4 to 6 hole locations around the bucket’s side, about 1 to 2 inches up from the bottom edge. Space them evenly. Using a hole saw, cut each opening. The size depends on what you feed—pellet eaters do well with holes about the size of a nickel, while a mash or crumble diet may need slightly smaller openings to prevent waste.

Critically, smooth all cut edges with sandpaper or a utility knife so chickens don’t injure themselves at feeding time. After sanding, fasten the bucket to the center of the tray using screws through the tray bottom into the bucket base. Place the feeder off the ground on a cinder block or wooden stand so the tray sits at chicken-chest height—about 6 to 8 inches for standard breeds. Test the flow with a scoop of feed before introducing it to the flock.

For a hanging version, attach an eye bolt to the bucket lid and suspend it from a hook. Make sure the hook and hardware hold the weight—a full 5-gallon bucket of feed weighs about 30 pounds.

The PVC Pipe Feeder

The PVC approach requires little more than a length of 4-inch diameter pipe and a few fittings. A Y-connector or capped elbows at the bottom create downward-facing outlets that rely on gravity instead of a tray.

Cut the pipe to your desired height—shorter sections (around 2 feet) work for smaller flocks, while longer columns hold more feed. Attach the Y-connector or elbows at the bottom, creating one or two openings facing down. Cap the top of the pipe with a clean-out cap.

To cut the down-facing outlets, a hand saw or pipe cutter works fine. The Y-connector branches typically angle about 45 degrees downward. Smooth any rough edges with sandpaper before assembly. Apply PVC cement to the joints and allow it to cure for at least an hour before adding feed.

The pipe feeder mounts to a wall or fence with plumber’s strapping, or stands on a flat base. Feed fills from the top—simply lift the cap, pour in a scoop, and replace it. Birds peck at the feed in the lower openings, and gravity pushes more down as they eat.

This design excels at keeping food protected from the elements when mounted inside a coop. It also reduces scratching since chickens can’t scatter feed from an open tray. For a small flock of 3 to 4 birds, a single Y-connector feeds them all comfortably.

If your DIY skills go beyond basic plumbing, a treadle feeder adds an extra layer of protection. A treadle-style lid opens only when a chicken steps onto a pedal, keeping feed fully closed off between meals. Sheet metal strips roughly 16 by 48 inches form the body, and the mechanism needs careful hinge alignment to respond to a bird’s weight.

Keeping Feed Dry and Rodents Out

Moisture ruins feed and invites pests. Keep any homemade feeder in a sheltered spot or under a roof overhang to limit rain exposure. For ground-level bucket feeders, place a brick or paver beneath the tray to keep it from tipping and to avoid ground moisture wicking upward.

Rodents dig at accessible feed. Hanging the bucket from the coop ceiling is one simple fix. For treadle or PVC styles, check the seals at joints regularly and brush off any accumulated feed residue after rain.

FAQs

How high should the holes be on a bucket feeder?

Hole placement works best about 1 to 2 inches above the bucket’s bottom edge. This height lets feed flow out freely while keeping the feed inside the tray rather than spilling onto the ground. If the tray is shallow, place holes at about 1 inch; deeper trays allow a slightly higher placement.

What size holes prevent feed waste?

Match the hole size to the feed type. Pellet feed works well with holes roughly the diameter of a nickel, since pellets pour freely without jamming. Mash and crumble need smaller openings to avoid avalanching out when the bucket is full. Start slightly smaller than you think, test with feed, and widen only if the flow stalls.

How long does a homemade bucket feeder last?

With basic care, a bucket feeder lasts several years. Food-grade buckets resist cracking, and the main wear point is the tray. Protect it from direct sun to prevent plastic brittleness, and keep it under cover so joints and screws don’t rust. Replacing the tray costs only a few dollars when it eventually wears through.