To install a wooden garden gate, set plumb posts in concrete, hang the leaf on stout hinges, then align, latch, and weather-proof the assembly.
Your new gate keeps pets in, invites guests through, and frames the path. This guide shows clear steps, common mistakes to skip, and pro tips that save rework. You’ll set sturdy posts, hang the leaf square, tune the swing, and seal the timber so it lasts.
What You’ll Need And Why It Matters
Good hardware and treated lumber are the backbone of a long-lived entry. Posts must resist ground moisture, hinges must carry weight without sag, and fasteners must suit outdoor use. The table below lists a complete kit with a quick “why” for each item so you can shop once and build once.
| Item | Typical Spec | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Gate Leaf | 900–1200 mm wide; 1.2–1.8 m high; framed, braced, ledged | Closes the opening; choose a stiff frame so it resists twist. |
| Gate Posts | 100×100 mm or larger; pressure-treated for ground contact | Carries hinge and latch loads; sized to curb wobble. |
| Hinges | Two strap or tee hinges; 300–450 mm length | Spreads load across the stile; smooth swing without sag. |
| Latch And Stop | Ring, thumb, or gravity latch; matching keeper | Holds the leaf shut; stop protects latch from over-travel. |
| Fasteners | Exterior screws/bolts; stainless or hot-dip galvanized | Resists corrosion; keeps joints tight in wet seasons. |
| Concrete Mix | Fast-setting or standard; gravel for drainage | Locks posts plumb; gravel pads the base and sheds water. |
| Tools | Post-hole digger, level, string line, clamps, drill/driver | Accurate holes, straight layout, and clean hardware fit. |
| Finish | Exterior stain, oil, or paint; brush/roller | Seals end grain and faces; slows swell and fade. |
Installing A Timber Garden Gate – Step-By-Step
Read through once. Lay out the opening. Dry-fit the leaf between posts to verify hinge side and swing direction. Then follow the sequence below so every piece lands square and stays that way.
Plan The Opening And Clearances
Measure the leaf width. Add a 3–5 mm gap at the latch side and 3–5 mm at the hinge side for swing. Leave 25–50 mm under the leaf for uneven ground and snow shovels. If the path slopes, set the hinge side on the high end so the arc stays clear.
Mark, Dig, And Prepare Post Holes
Snap a string line to mark the fence face. Space post centers to suit your leaf plus side gaps. Dig holes three times the post width, with a flat bottom. Add 150 mm of compacted gravel for drainage. Depth targets: aim for roughly one-third of the total post length below grade, deeper in soft soil or windy spots. A common 100×100 mm post set for a 1.5 m leaf lands at about 600–750 mm deep in moderate ground.
Set Posts Plumb In Concrete
Brace each post with temporary 2×4 struts. Fill around the post with concrete up to grade, trowel a slight dome so rain sheds away from the wood, then re-check plumb in both directions. Let the mix cure as directed by the bag. A fast-setting blend allows light duty soon, but full strength still takes time.
Use outdoor-rated treatment for any wood that sits in or near soil. Ground-contact-rated stock lasts longer in splash zones and at grade. That rating is printed on the end tag at most yards.
Fit Hinges To The Leaf
Lay the leaf on padded trestles with the hinge stile flush. Size and position the two hinges so the top hinge sits near the top rail and the lower hinge sits near the bottom rail. Pre-drill pilot holes. Through-bolts with washers beat short screws on heavy leaves. Keep the knuckle line straight; that line becomes the pivot you’ll align to the post.
Hang The Leaf On The Hinge Post
Clamp a 20–25 mm spacer block to the underside of the leaf to hold your ground gap. With a helper, lift and prop the leaf in the opening. Mark hinge hole locations on the post through the hinge leaves. Take the leaf back down, drill, then set the leaf on props again and bolt or screw the hinges to the post. Open and close the leaf a few times to confirm smooth travel without scuffing the path.
Mount The Latch And Keeper
Close the leaf with the planned side gaps. Mark latch height at a comfortable reach, often near the center rail. Drill straight through for ring or thumb hardware if needed, then attach the keeper to the striking post. Add a stop strip on the keep side so the latch doesn’t take the full slam.
Tune The Swing And Gaps
Small tweaks here prevent sag later. If the latch side drifts down, lift slightly and re-set hinge screws. Many strap hinges allow a tiny shift on their slotted holes. Add a thin composite shim behind the lower hinge leaf on the post to lift the free end without re-drilling.
Seal The Timber
Brush end grain first—hinge and latch edges, exposed board tops, and any cuts you made. Then coat broad faces. Two thin coats beat one thick coat. Recoat on a calendar, not just when color fades. Shade sides and splash zones wear faster than dry faces under eaves.
Post Depth, Hole Size, And Mix Tips
Gate weight and wind drive post loads. Deeper holes and wider bells resist heave and lean. In calm, well-drained soil, a hole three times the post width with a third of the post buried gives reliable results. In soft soil or gusty sites, go deeper and use a wider base. Pack gravel in the bottom and slope the concrete top away from wood.
Concrete And Drainage Pointers
- Gravel Base: A 150 mm layer under each post drains standing water.
- Bell The Bottom: Flare the base slightly wider than the shaft for extra pull-out resistance.
- Domed Crown: Shape the top so rain sheds away from the post.
- Brace Until Set: Double-check plumb before the mix locks.
Hinge Choices And Where They Shine
Hinges are more than décor. The right style carries weight, resists racking, and swings cleanly. Here’s a quick guide to match hinge type to your leaf and site.
| Hinge Type | Best Use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Strap | Heavy, wide leaves; rustic or farm style | Long leaves spread load; through-bolts recommended. |
| Tee | Medium leaves on timber posts | Easy layout; strong for weight; clean look on boards. |
| Butt/Ball-Bearing | Narrow stile leaves; framed joinery | Sleek profile; needs solid mortises; use three on tall leaves. |
Layout Details That Prevent Sag
Pick The Hinge Side For The Slope
Hinge on the high side of a sloped path so the swing clears grade. If grade rises both ways, hang to swing inward where ground is flatter.
Brace The Leaf Correctly
The diagonal brace should run from the lower hinge side up to the latch side. That way the brace pushes down into the hinge stile and resists droop at the free end.
Mind Grain Direction And Fastener Length
Fasteners near end grain can split rails. Pre-drill and keep pilot holes straight. Use full-length screws or through-bolts where the hinge leaf spans a rail and stile joint.
Weatherproofing That Actually Works
End grain drinks water faster than faces. Seal cuts the day you make them. Use stainless or hot-dip galvanized fasteners so black streaks don’t bleed down the boards. Where sprinklers hit the leaf, expect more stain maintenance and choose a finish that is easy to renew without stripping.
Code, Treatment, And Safety Checks
Use ground-contact-rated posts for in-ground work. Look for UC4A or higher on the tag. That rating signals treatment suited for soil and splash zones. For the concrete set process and hole sizing steps, a standard trade guide outlines gravel base, hole width, and water per bag for fast-set mixes.
Common Mistakes And Quick Fixes
Setting Posts Too Shallow
Fix by adding a brace panel near the gate or re-setting posts deeper with a wider base. Short-term shims won’t hold once frost and wind work the joint.
Hinges Too Small
If the leaf creeps down over weeks, you likely used short leaves or short screws. Replace with longer strap or tee hardware and through-bolt across the stile.
No Stop For The Latch
Without a stop, the keeper takes every slam. Add a stop strip so the leaf rests on wood, not on the latch tongue.
Skipping End-Grain Sealer
Cut edges wick moisture and swell. Seal right after drilling and trimming. Touch up again after a wet season.
Maintenance That Keeps The Swing Smooth
- Oil Hinges Each Spring: A few drops at the knuckle quiets squeaks.
- Tighten Hardware: Check hinge bolts and latch screws twice a year.
- Recoat Finish: Sun-facing sides may need fresh stain sooner.
- Trim Soil And Mulch: Keep soil away from the bottom board to prevent wicking.
- Watch The Arc: If the path settles, plane a hair from the latch stile rather than forcing the latch.
Quick Sizing Reference
Post Size
Use 100×100 mm posts for narrow leaves up to 1.2 m wide. Step up to 125×125 mm where winds are strong or the leaf carries dense boards. Wider leaves or tall privacy styles may need 150×150 mm posts and heavier hinges.
Fastener Length
For hinge leaves, drive screws that reach at least 2.5× the screw diameter into sound wood. Where possible, use carriage bolts with washers; torque gently to avoid crushing soft fibers.
Step-By-Step Recap
- Lay Out The Opening: Measure leaf, set side gaps, and pick swing.
- Dig And Prepare Holes: Three times post width; add compacted gravel.
- Set Posts Plumb: Brace, pour, crown the top, and let cure.
- Attach Hinges To Leaf: Pre-drill, use long screws or through-bolts.
- Hang The Leaf: Prop to final height, fasten to the hinge post.
- Fit Latch And Stop: Align keeper; add a stop strip.
- Tune And Seal: Adjust gaps and coat end grain and faces.
Why This Method Lasts
The combination of deep, well-drained footings, corrosion-resistant hardware, and treated posts resists movement and decay. A straight hinge line and a proper brace keep the free end from drooping. Regular touch-ups on finish and hardware stretch service life by years.
Helpful References You Can Trust
For treatment ratings on posts and outdoor lumber, see the AWPA Use Category guidance. For step-by-step post setting with gravel base, hole width, and water-per-bag tips, see Setting posts in concrete.