To erect a garden fence, plan the line, set posts one-third deep in concrete, then fix panels level with secure fixings.
Ready to draw a clean boundary, add privacy, and calm the wind? This walkthrough shows each stage—from permissions and safe digging, to straight posts, tidy gravel boards, and rigid panels. You’ll see what to buy, how to set out, and the little setup tricks that keep everything level and square.
Project At A Glance
Scan this checklist, then jump into the step-by-step.
| Item | Purpose | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| UC4 Timber Or Concrete Posts | Main load | 100×100 mm timber or slotted concrete posts |
| Panels Or Rails + Boards | Screening | Closeboard, lap, slatted, or picket style |
| Gravel Boards | Rot barrier | Concrete lasts longest; timber matches timber posts |
| Post Mix Or Concrete | Anchoring | Fast-set mix is quick; standard concrete offers control |
| Fixings | Joinery | Galvanised or stainless screws, clips, brackets |
| String Line & Batter Boards | Alignment | Keeps posts in a straight plane |
| Tools | Setup | Level, spade, post-hole digger, saw, drill/driver |
Check Rules, Boundaries, And Safety
First, confirm local height limits. Side and back boundaries often allow up to 2 m, while fences facing a public highway are usually capped lower. For UK readers, see the Planning Portal guidance on fences and gates for the specific thresholds and exceptions.
Next, mark buried services before digging. A free utility search takes minutes and can save a nasty strike. UK readers can request plans via LSBUD’s safe-dig platform; similar “before you dig” services exist in other regions.
How To Erect Garden Fence: Step-By-Step
1) Measure, Map, And Choose A Style
Walk the boundary with a tape and notepad. Mark start and end points, gates, trees, downpipes, and hard edges. Decide on a look that suits the plot and wind: solid panels for privacy, or slatted/trellis sections up top to let air bleed through. For slopes, stepping panels is quick; closeboard with rails “racks” smoothly and hugs the ground.
Pick a final height that fits the rules and the view. A common rear-garden choice is 1.8–2.0 m. If wind is fierce, break up the top with trellis or slats to cut pressure on posts.
2) Select Posts, Boards, And Hardware
Posts. UC4 pressure-treated timber is rated for in-ground use and easy to cut; concrete posts don’t rot and pair well with concrete gravel boards. Go heavier where storms bite. For a 1.8 m fence, 100×100 mm timber posts or slotted concrete equivalents work well.
Boards. Closeboard (featheredge) builds to any width and handles slopes neatly. Pre-made lap or slatted panels install fast. Match clips and brackets to your post type and stick to galvanised or stainless steel.
3) Set Out With A String Line
Tap in a temporary stake at each end of the run. Fit simple batter boards (two short stakes with a crosspiece) and pull a tight string line at the face of the posts. This line sets the plane of the fence, not just the ground path.
Mark post centres to suit your panels. With standard 6-ft (1.83 m) panels, mark 1.83 m between post centres. Add a post at every turn, end, or gate opening.
4) Dig To The Right Depth And Width
Use the one-third rule for depth: bury roughly a third of each post. For a 2.4 m post, target about 800 mm in the ground. Aim for a hole about three times the post width. In sandy or boggy sections, go deeper and flare the bottom for extra hold.
Keep the base firm. Scrape loose spoil from the bottom so the post bears on solid ground, not soft backfill.
5) Concrete The First Two Posts
Set the first end post on your mark. Add a splash of water, pour in post mix, and tamp in lifts. Check plumb on two faces and brace it off. Repeat at the far end of the run. These two posts act like anchor points for the string line and keep everything true.
6) Run The Intermediates
With the string line re-tensioned across the two anchors, drop in each intermediate post. Check plumb, align the face to the string, and brace. Keep top heights consistent; the caps should read as one flat line when you sight along the run.
7) Fit Gravel Boards
Gravel boards protect timber and tidy the base. Slide concrete boards into slotted posts, or screw timber boards to rails. Keep the top edges level; this becomes a visual datum for panels above.
8) Hang Panels Or Build Closeboard
Panels: With slotted concrete posts, slide panels down the channels. With timber posts, use U-brackets or heavy clips on the post faces and screw through the panel frame. Leave a slim expansion gap at each side of a panel so swelling doesn’t bind.
Closeboard: Fix arris rails between posts, nail featheredge boards with a steady overlap, and top with a capping rail. This route shines on slopes and odd spans where panels won’t quite fit.
9) Cure, Cap, And Coat
Concrete at the post base gains strength over days. Keep footings damp and undisturbed for the first 24–48 hours. Crown the concrete so rain sheds away. Treat any fresh cuts with end-grain preservative and, once dry, brush on stain or paint.
Close Variant: Erecting A Garden Fence The Safe Way
This section zooms in on safe digging and handling so you can revisit how to erect garden fence with fewer risks and cleaner results.
Safe-Dig Checklist
- Request utility maps and mark routes on the ground with paint or flags.
- Hand-dig the last 300 mm near any marked service.
- Use an RCD with corded tools outdoors and keep leads clear of the trench.
- Wear eye protection when cutting posts, slats, or gravel boards.
Layout Details That Keep Lines Straight
String Height And Sight Lines
Run the string at the face of the posts near cap height, not along the ground. Sight from one end to the other; any post that breaks the plane gets nudged before the mix sets.
Spacing, Corners, And Gates
Panels with true 1.83 m widths want matching centres; measure twice before digging. At corners, use a longer footing or add diagonal bracing rails between the corner and the next post. Gate posts carry slamming load—upsize here and deepen the footing.
Slopes: Step Or Rack
Stepped panels are fast: each panel rises like stairs, and you trim post tops to a clean line. Racked boards follow the ground and keep gaps tight under the fence. Blend in a short board or shallow soil grade where small gaps remain.
Foundations: Mix, Bracing, And Drainage
Post Mix Vs Traditional Concrete
Bagged post mix sets fast and suits small jobs or changeable weather. Traditional ballast and cement buys more working time and can cut costs on long runs. Whichever you choose, bell out the bottom of each hole and crown the top so water can’t pool against timber.
Bracing For Straightness
Drive two temporary stakes a metre out from the post and screw scrap boards from stake to post on two faces. This quick rig keeps the post plumb while you set the next holes and prevents a wavy run.
Rot Control
Keep timber out of damp soil with gravel boards. Seal cuts with end-grain treatment. Where posts pass through concrete, a rot-barrier sleeve helps, or switch to concrete posts for long life.
Fixings And Finishes That Last
Hardware That Shrugs Off Weather
Use galvanised or stainless screws, nails, hinges, and latches. Bright steel corrodes, stains timber, and loses grip. In coastal air, stainless pays off for moving parts.
Colour And Care
Brush on stain once the timber has dried to a steady colour. Mid-tones hide scuffs and are easy to refresh. Wash down yearly, re-coat high-sun faces as needed, and keep beds and mulch below the gravel board to avoid splashback.
Gates, Curves, And Neighbour Lines
Hanging A Gate
Fit a dedicated gate post each side of the opening. Use long screws through heavy hinges into dense timber or concrete plugs. Hang the gate with a small lift at the latch side so it settles level.
Curved Runs
With panels, create a curve by turning each post a few degrees, forming short chords. With closeboard, sweep the top rail along the curve and follow it with boards.
Shared Boundaries
Have a quick chat with neighbours before you dig. Agree the line, height, and style. Keep posts and footings on your side unless you’ve both agreed to share the build and costs in writing.
Troubleshooting And Quick Fixes
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Posts Leaning | Shallow holes or weak bracing | Re-plumb, brace well, deepen footing |
| Panels Rattling | Loose clips or wind lift | Tighten fixings, add packers, add trellis to vent gusts |
| Rot At Ground Line | Water trapped at post | Crown concrete, fit gravel board, treat cut ends |
| Uneven Top Line | Mixed post heights | Trim to a laser line; add cap rail |
| Cracked Footings | Loaded before cure | Leave longer; protect from sun and frost |
| Gate Sagging | Undersized posts or hinges | Up-spec posts; add diagonal brace; reset hinges |
| Screw Stains | Uncoated steel | Swap to galvanised or stainless |
Cost, Time, And Smart Shortcuts
Two people can set 8–12 m of fencing in a day once holes are open. Panels speed the build; closeboard takes longer but fits slopes and odd spans neatly. Buying fixings in bulk, batching concrete, and pre-cutting caps keep costs in check.
Checklist: From First Mark To Final Coat
Before You Start
- Confirm height rules on your council or planning site.
- Order utility plans and mark routes on the ground.
- Buy posts one size taller than the fence to cover the buried third.
- Stage tools, fixings, and panels along the line for smooth flow.
Build Day
- Set out with string and batter boards.
- Dig to depth; flare the base of each hole.
- Concrete the first two posts and brace.
- Run intermediates to the string; add gravel boards.
- Hang panels or board out closeboard; cap and coat.
Why This Fence Will Stand Up
You’ve set the line, buried posts to the right depth, braced while curing, vented wind at the top, and kept timber off wet soil. Those simple moves stop lean, rattle, and rot—the usual early-failure trio.