To get earwigs out of the garden, remove damp shelter, set nightly oil traps, and block climbs with sticky bands; sprays are seldom needed.
Earwigs chew tender leaves, blossoms, and fruit, then hide under cool, damp cover by day. They also hunt aphids, so the goal is balance: protect seedlings and blooms while keeping numbers in check. This guide shows how to get earwigs out of the garden with traps and fixes you can do tonight.
Fast Steps: How To Get Earwigs Out Of The Garden
Work in this order to see quick wins and fewer chewed leaves.
- Find where they hide. Lift pots, boards, mulch mats, and ground covers near damaged plants. Note the damp, shaded pockets.
- Trap every night for a week. Sink tuna or cat-food cans level with soil and add 1 cm of vegetable oil plus a dab of fish oil or bacon grease. Empty at dawn into soapy water and reset.
- Thin surface moisture. Water early and deeply, switch to drip where possible, and pull back thick mulch from stems.
- Block climbs. On trees or stakes, add a narrow band of sticky product on a wrap so it doesn’t touch bark.
- Shield tender plants. Use collars, row cover at night, or a light dusting of diatomaceous earth on dry soil around seedlings.
- Use bait only if needed. If numbers stay high, spot-apply a labeled spinosad bait outside the beds or around foundations—never on blooms.
Earwig Damage And What To Do
This table links common symptoms to a fix so you can set priorities.
| Plant Or Area | Typical Sign | Best First Action |
|---|---|---|
| Seedlings (veg/annuals) | Leaves or stems clipped overnight | Night traps; ring with dry DE; cover at dusk |
| Dahlias, zinnias, marigolds | Petals ragged; holes in new growth | Oil traps near stems; straw-pot trap on cane |
| Strawberries, apricots, berries | Shallow gouges; rough holes | Sticky bands on trunks; pick fruit promptly |
| Sweet corn | Silks chewed; spotty kernels | Heavy nightly trapping at tassel time |
| Container clusters | Earwigs under rims and trays | Lift, space, and keep saucers dry |
| Mulched beds | Activity under thick, damp mulch | Pull mulch back; water in mornings only |
| House entry strip | Earwigs along foundations | Clean debris; consider a perimeter bait |
| Vines/groundcovers | Dense ivy or mats near beds | Prune back; open air gaps |
Identification And Timing
European earwigs are reddish brown with short wing covers and a pair of forceps—curved in males, straighter in females. Adults reach about 1.5–2 cm in length. They are most active at night and hide by day in tight, damp spaces near soil and mulch. Nymphs hatch in late spring and pass through several molts before summer; activity often peaks from early summer into fall.
Set Traps That Work
Trapping knocks down numbers without broad sprays. Place traps at plant bases, fence lines, and groundcover edges nearby.
Oil Can Traps
Sink low-sided tuna or cat-food cans to the rim. Add a thin layer of vegetable oil plus a drop of fish oil. Check at dawn, dump into soapy water, and refill nightly.
Roll-Up Hiding Traps
Roll newspaper, band it, and lay rolls near stems at dusk. In the morning, shake earwigs into a bucket of soapy water. Corrugated cardboard or short hose pieces work too.
Straw-Pot Cane Traps
Pack an upturned flowerpot with straw, perch it on a cane above target plants, and empty it each morning. Keep this away from fruit trees where earwigs help with aphids.
Reduce Moisture And Hiding Spots
Earwigs thrive where the surface stays damp and shaded. Trim groundcovers, lift stacked pots, and clear boards and leaf piles. Water early so the top dries by evening. In deep mulch, pull it a hand’s width back from stems.
Protect Tender Plants Right Now
Seedlings and soft-petaled flowers need extra care during peak feeding.
- Plant collars: Rings cut from plastic bottles stop crawlers from reaching new stems.
- Row cover at night: Drape fabric over hoops from dusk to dawn during outbreaks.
- Diatomaceous earth: On dry, calm days, dust a thin ring on the soil around targets; refresh after rain or irrigation.
- Sticky bands: For trees and stakes, apply a narrow sticky barrier over a protective wrap. Replace when dusty.
When Baits Or Sprays Make Sense
Most gardens won’t need them if trapping and cleanup are steady. If pressure stays high, a spinosad bait can help when used outside beds and before earwigs climb. Apply at night, keep away from blooms, and follow the label. Contact sprays are rarely needed and can disrupt helpful insects.
Getting Earwigs Out Of The Garden Without Harsh Chemicals
Here’s how to build a low-spray program that holds each season.
- Switch irrigation style. Drip or soaker lines cut surface moisture. If you use overhead watering, do it early, then let the top few centimeters dry.
- Keep harvests tight. Pick soft fruit as it ripens so it doesn’t become a refuge.
- Use selective barriers. Sticky bands stop climbs on trunks and stakes during ripening windows.
- Rotate trap density. Run a heavy trapping week, then taper to a few “monitor” cans near hot spots.
- Favor allies. Birds, toads, and even earwigs help with aphids. Aim for control, not total wipeout.
Trusted Guidance And Product Notes
University programs back the tactics above. See the UC IPM earwig guide for trap recipes, sticky band tips, and when a spinosad bait fits. The UMN Extension earwig page lists moisture reduction steps, nightly trapping details, and labeled options if non-chemical steps fall short.
Trap And Barrier Options Compared
Pick methods that match your beds and weather. Keep everything dry at the surface for best results.
| Method | How It Works | Best Use |
|---|---|---|
| Oil can trap | Scented oil lures and drowns earwigs overnight | Bed edges, fence lines, near containers |
| Rolled newspaper/cardboard | Creates a tight day shelter you can shake out | Right at plant base; daily emptying |
| Straw-pot on cane | Elevated shelter draws earwigs off petals | Over dahlias, zinnias, chrysanthemums |
| Sticky band | Stops crawlers from reaching fruit or blooms | Tree trunks, stakes, poles |
| Plant collar | Physical ring blocks crawlers at stems | Seedlings and transplants |
| Diatomaceous earth | Dry abrasive ring deters crossing | Short, dry weather windows |
| Spinosad bait | Ingested bait for spot control | Perimeter use away from blooms |
Seasonal Plan You Can Follow
Early Spring
Clear debris, open air gaps, and set a few cardboard rolls to scout. If last year was heavy, start oil traps as nights warm.
Late Spring Through Fall
Trap nightly for a week, then maintain. Space containers, empty saucers, thin mulch, and reset traps after rain. Use sticky bands during ripening or when corn tassels form.
Troubleshooting Common Snags
- Traps stay empty but damage continues: Check at night with a flashlight; slugs leave slime, earwigs do not.
- Oil traps flood: Raise cans slightly or switch to roll-up traps during storms.
- Too many in fruit trees: Band only during ripening windows; otherwise, let them help with aphids.
Why Total Eradication Backfires
Earwigs scavenge and prey on soft pests, so a few in fruit trees can help hold aphids down. Aim for protection, not a sterile bed. Guard seedlings, soft fruit, and show blooms; relax where plants can handle minor nibbling.
Recap You Can Act On Tonight
Set oil traps, pull back damp mulch, and band trunks or stakes where needed. Keep at it nightly for a week, then monitor. If pressure stays high, place a labeled spinosad bait on the perimeter. Steady trapping and drier surfaces keep beds healthy.
You asked “how to get earwigs out of the garden,” and now you have a plan that starts today and holds through harvest.