Brick garden edging creates a durable, tidy border that separates lawn from beds and cuts down on trimming time.
Brick edging gives a garden that sharp, finished line you see in well kept show gardens, but it is a project most home gardeners can tackle over a weekend. With a bit of planning, a straight trench, and a steady hand, you can turn a messy edge into a neat brick border that guides the eye and makes mowing simpler.
This guide walks through how to plan your edge, choose the right bricks, dig a stable base, and set the bricks so they stay put through rain, frost, and regular foot traffic. You will also find layout ideas, cost ranges, and simple fixes for common problems such as wobbly courses or bricks that keep sinking.
Brick Edging Versus Other Garden Borders
Before you move ahead with how to make brick garden edging, it helps to know where bricks shine compared with other edging materials. The table below gives a quick comparison you can scan before heading to the builders merchant.
| Edging Material | Durability And Care | Best Use |
|---|---|---|
| Clay Brick | Long lasting, can be re-set, needs solid base | Formal beds, lawns, paths |
| Concrete Paver | Tough, uniform size, wide colour range | Modern beds, drive edges, mowing strips |
| Metal Edging | Thin line, bends for curves, may rust | Curved beds, low visual impact |
| Plastic Edging | Quick to fit, can shift or heave with frost | Temporary beds, rental gardens |
| Timber Boards | Easy to cut, can rot in damp soil | Raised beds, vegetable plots |
| Natural Stone | Durable, heavy to move, higher cost | Feature borders, period homes |
| Gravel Strip | Needs weed fabric, scatters over time | Casual paths, drainage channels |
Many gardeners like brick edging because it keeps grass from creeping into borders and cuts down on hand trimming. RHS advice notes that a permanent edge such as a run of bricks makes lawns easier to cut and keeps lines neat over the long term RHS low maintenance lawn advice.
Planning Your Brick Garden Edging
Good planning sets you up for a straight, level edge that still looks tidy several years from now. Start by deciding where the edging will run and how high you want the bricks to sit. Some people like a mowing strip with bricks laid flat and level with the grass. Others prefer a low raised border with bricks on edge so the bed sits slightly higher.
Choose The Line And Shape
Mark the proposed edge on the ground with sand, string, or a garden hose. Straight lines suit formal beds and narrow paths, while gentle curves soften corners and help a small garden feel wider. Stand back from different angles and adjust the line until it feels right. This step takes a few extra minutes but saves you from living with a wobbly edge.
Select The Right Bricks
Use solid clay pavers or engineering bricks rated for ground contact and frost. Regular house bricks often absorb more moisture and can flake when exposed to repeated freeze and thaw. Standard bricks around 215 x 102.5 x 65 mm work well for both flat and on edge layouts. Aim for bricks with square edges so joints line up cleanly.
If you are edging next to a path or drive, check any local rules on surface water drainage. Some areas encourage permeable materials for hard surfaces so rain can soak into the ground instead of running off into drains RHS permeable paving guidance.
Estimate Cost And Quantity
Measure the total length of the edge in metres. For bricks laid flat in a single row, divide the length by the brick length plus a 10 mm joint. For bricks on edge, you may need two rows wide for stability. Add at least ten percent extra bricks for cuts and breakages. Sand and sharp grit for the base are usually sold by the bag; check the stated area on the label and round up so you do not run short halfway along the trench.
Tools And Materials For Brick Garden Edging
Gather everything before you cut into the turf. Having tools at hand keeps the job smooth and prevents half finished edges that sit open for days.
Basic Tool List
- Spade or flat shovel for cutting turf
- Hand trowel for detail work around roots
- Bricklayer’s string line and pegs
- Rubber mallet for tapping bricks into place
- Spirit level or long straight board with a small level on top
- Bucket or wheelbarrow for moving spoil and sand
- Cold chisel and club hammer for brick cuts, or a brick saw if available
Materials You Will Need
- Clay bricks or pavers suitable for outdoor edging
- Sharp sand or grit for the bedding layer
- All-in ballast or compactable gravel for deeper bases on soft ground
- Dry sand and cement mix for haunching on the soil side if you want an extra firm edge
- Weed control fabric if you are edging loose gravel or bark paths
Step By Step: How To Make Brick Garden Edging
This section walks through the build sequence, from the first cut in the turf to sweeping sand into the joints. Take your time on the early stages; a straight trench and level base make the visible work simple.
1. Cut And Remove The Turf
Set out your string line along the proposed edge, securing it with pegs so it sits just above ground level. Use a half moon edger or flat spade to slice down along the line to the depth of a brick. Remove a strip of turf on the bed side of the line that is wide enough to hold the bricks plus a small working space. Stack any good turf pieces for reuse or composting.
2. Dig The Trench To Depth
Dig out the trench to the combined depth of your base layer and the brick height. For a mowing strip, the bricks will sit level with the lawn, so allow room for a compacted layer of gravel or sharp sand plus the brick itself. On heavy clay or soft, wet soil, plan on at least 75 mm of compactable base to keep the edging from sinking.
3. Add And Level The Base Layer
Tip a layer of compactable gravel or sharp sand into the trench and spread it evenly with a trowel or short length of timber. Lightly tamp it down with the end of a post or a hired hand tamper. Check the level along the string line, adding or scraping away material until the base is straight and consistent from one end to the other.
4. Dry Lay A Trial Row
Before you mix any mortar, lay a row of bricks on the prepared base without cement. Press each brick down by hand so it just bites into the sand. Check the level along the line and across the width if you use two rows. Adjust the base as needed. This dry run also shows you where cuts will fall at ends or corners.
5. Set The Bricks In Place
Once you are happy with the trial row, lift a few bricks at a time and bed them properly. Many home gardeners choose a sand bed only, which still gives a solid edge if the base is deep enough. Spread a slightly thicker layer of sand where each brick will sit, press it down, then bed the brick with a few taps of the rubber mallet. Aim for joints around 10 mm wide and keep checking against the string.
If you want a rigid, fixed edge, you can form a small haunch of dry sand and cement mix on the soil side of the bricks. Shape it into a low wedge that holds the bricks without showing above the finished soil level. Rain will gradually cure the mix. This method is often used by garden contractors who install mowing strips beside lawns brick garden edging project.
6. Fill Joints And Backfill The Bed
Brush dry sand over the bricks and sweep it back and forth so it falls into the joints. Top up until the gaps stay filled. On the bed side, pull soil or mulch back up against the bricks so there is no air gap. On the lawn side, trim any loose grass and pat the edge so blades sit level with the top of the bricks.
7. Water In And Check The Line
Give the new edge a gentle spray of water. This settles the sand and bedding layer. Step back along the length and sight down the top course. Any brick that sits high can be eased up and have a small amount of sand removed beneath. Low bricks can be lifted and packed with more sand.
Brick Patterns And Layout Ideas
Once you have the basic method for brick garden edging, you can play with different patterns. Small changes in layout alter the mood of a path or bed without changing the materials.
| Pattern | Look And Character | Notes For DIYers |
|---|---|---|
| Stretcher Bond | Simple, clean rows with staggered joints | Easiest to set, few cuts, suits most gardens |
| Soldier Course | Bricks on edge with tall narrow look | Works well along drives and paths |
| Sailor Course | Bricks on edge with wide face showing | Good for raised beds or bold borders |
| Herringbone | Angles catch the eye and add texture | Needs careful planning and more cuts |
| Basket Weave | Pairs of bricks at right angles | Best on wider paths, less common on thin edges |
Common Mistakes With Brick Garden Edging
Some problems crop up again and again when people try this brick garden edging job for the first time. Knowing them in advance helps you avoid repeat jobs.
Shallow Base Layer
A thin layer of soft sand on bare soil often leads to bricks that sink or tilt after the first wet winter. If your soil turns to mud when wet, take the time to dig a deeper trench and add a compacted layer of gravel or hardcore first. The more stable the base, the less likely you will need to lift and re-lay sections later.
No String Line
Freehand edges almost always wander. A tight string line gives you a clear reference, even on curved beds where the line moves in short sections. Check the line every few metres while you work so it stays tight and at the right height above the bricks.
Skipping Drainage Checks
Solid edging along a drive, path, or patio can hold back water if levels are wrong. During planning, picture where rain will flow once the bricks are in place. Make sure water can still reach soil, gravel soakaways, or drains instead of pooling against walls or paving.
Care And Maintenance For Brick Edges
A well built border with a proper base needs little care each year. Short, regular checks stop small issues from turning into full rebuilds.
Seasonal Checks
At the end of winter, walk the length of your edging and look for bricks that have lifted or dropped. Frost heave might raise a few units; a gentle tap with the mallet can often bring them back into line. If a longer run has moved, lift those bricks, re-level the base, and set them back down.
Keeping Weeds At Bay
Wind blown seeds can root in joints. Once or twice a year, brush the bricks firmly to dislodge seedlings, then top up the joints with dry sand. In gravel areas near the edging, a good weed control fabric underneath the stone keeps most perennial weeds from pushing through.
Cleaning Bricks Without Damage
Over time, bricks pick up algae, soil stains, or mower scuffs. Start with a stiff brush and a bucket of water. Mild detergent deals with most marks. Avoid strong acid cleaners, which can eat into the surface and leave pale patches. If you use a pressure washer, keep the nozzle moving and do not blast directly into joints.
When Brick Edging Is The Right Choice
Brick edges suit many small gardens, cottage plots, and modern spaces where a crisp line between lawn and bed matters. They work especially well where you want a permanent mowing strip that saves time on every cut. If you already plan to relay a path or patio, adding a matching brick edge around nearby beds ties the whole area together.
By taking a measured approach to planning, base preparation, and brick setting, you can handle how to make brick garden edging as a home project that rewards you every time you step outside. The result is a tidy, durable border that frames your plants, keeps grass under control, and helps the garden feel finished without demanding constant attention.
