How To Make Garden Fence With Chicken Wire | Fast Build

Building a chicken wire fence around a bed or whole plot keeps dogs, rabbits, chickens, and other hungry visitors away from your plants without blocking the view. You only need basic tools, a little planning, and a free afternoon. This walkthrough shows you how to make garden fence with chicken wire that is neat, durable, and easy to open for weeding and harvest.

Chicken wire is light and easy to shape, which makes it ideal for first fences and small spaces. At the same time, you still need to think through height, mesh size, and how deep the wire sits in the soil if you want a fence that actually stops animals. The steps below help you choose the right materials, lay out the line, set strong posts, and attach the mesh so it stays tight through wind and rain.

Planning A Garden Fence With Chicken Wire

Good planning saves you from sagging mesh and crooked corners. Before you buy anything, walk the area and decide what you want to keep out. Low, light fences work for rabbits and small pets, while taller designs are better when you have deer nearby or free-ranging chickens hopping around.

Measure each side of the bed or plot with a tape, marking corners with sticks or stones. Add those lengths to work out how many metres or feet of chicken wire you need, then add at least ten percent extra for overlaps and a gate opening. Sketch a quick plan that shows post spacing, gate location, and any changes in level where you might need shorter or taller posts.

Materials And Tools For A Chicken Wire Garden Fence

Most home fences use wooden posts with galvanised chicken wire stapled to rails or directly to the posts. You can swap in metal T-posts if you want less maintenance. For general garden protection, many growers use mesh with openings around 25 mm (1 inch). Finer mesh helps against small animals but costs more.

Item	Main Use	Practical Tip
Chicken wire roll	Forms the fence barrier	Choose galvanised mesh for longer life outdoors
Wood or metal posts	Hold the fence upright	Place corner posts thicker and deeper than line posts
Gravel and concrete mix	Anchors posts in soil	Use concrete on corners and gate posts for extra strength
Staples or fencing clips	Fasten mesh to posts or rails	Galvanised staples last longer in damp weather
Top and bottom rails	Keep mesh straight and tight	Optional but helpful on taller fences
Gate kit or homemade frame	Gives easy access to the bed	Plan the gate wide enough for a barrow
Basic tools	Digging and fixing	Shovel, post hole digger, hammer, wire cutters, drill

When you choose height and mesh size, think about the animals around you. Many installers note that a garden fence to keep deer away often needs to reach around six to eight feet high to stop jumping, while a shorter run around 90–120 cm (three to four feet) can handle rabbits and small dogs. Advice from professional fence builders on garden fences that keep animals out also reminds gardeners that finer mesh is better when rodents are a problem.

Marking The Line And Setting Post Spacing

Once your materials are ready, mark the exact fence line. Push a stake in at each corner, tie string between them, and pull the string tight. Check that paths still work and that gates will open fully without hitting beds or steps. Adjust the line now, before you start digging holes.

Post spacing of 1.8–2.4 m (6–8 feet) works for most garden fences with chicken wire. Closer spacing keeps the mesh tighter in windy spots or on slopes. Mark each post position along the string with spray paint or small pegs so you can see the whole pattern before you dig.

How To Make Garden Fence With Chicken Wire Step By Step

This section walks through how to make garden fence with chicken wire from bare soil to finished gate. Take your time with posts and corners. A little extra care here gives you a fence that stays straight for years.

Step 1: Dig Post Holes

Start with the corner and gate posts, since they carry the most strain. Use a post hole digger or shovel to dig holes at least one third of the post length deep. In many gardens that means around 60 cm (two feet) for a medium fence, deeper for taller posts or sandy ground.

Pour a little gravel into the bottom of each hole for drainage, then place the post in the centre. Use a level on two sides to set the post upright. Brace it with scrap wood so it stays still while you add concrete or soil backfill.

Step 2: Set Posts In Concrete Or Packed Soil

For long, straight runs and any gate opening, concrete around the base helps the posts stay firm through frost and heavy winds. Mix concrete in a bucket or barrow, pour it into the hole around the post, and slope the top away from the wood so rain runs off. Let it cure according to the packet directions before you pull the braces away.

Line posts between corners can sit in well-packed soil if you prefer. Add soil back in layers, tamping each layer tight with a scrap of wood or the end of the post hole digger. Check each post with a level while you work so they line up along the string.

Step 3: Fit Rails If You Are Using Them

If you choose top and bottom rails, fix them between the posts once the concrete sets. Cut boards or treated battens to length, then screw them into the posts so the bottom rail sits just above the soil line and the top rail matches the top of the planned mesh height.

Rails give the chicken wire a straight edge and make the fence feel more solid. They also help keep the mesh tight on taller fences where you want to avoid sagging over time.

Step 4: Attach And Tension The Chicken Wire

Roll out the chicken wire along the fence line on the ground. Wear gloves, since the cut ends can be sharp. Start at a corner post, and use heavy staples or fencing staples to fasten the mesh along the full height of the post or rail. Fix from the top down so the mesh stays aligned.

Move along the line, pulling the mesh tight by hand or with a simple fence stretcher. Fasten it to each post or rail every 30–45 cm (12–18 inches). Many installers recommend stapling along the top rail first, then along the bottom, and finally at midpoints so the mesh stays even. A detailed walkthrough from a fence company on attaching chicken wire to posts and rails shows this pattern in practice.

Step 5: Bury Or Bend Out The Bottom Edge

To stop digging animals, handle the base carefully. One option is to dig a shallow trench 15–30 cm (6–12 inches) deep along the fence line before you attach the mesh. Drop the bottom of the chicken wire into this trench, then backfill with soil once the mesh is tight.

Another option is to bend the bottom 20–30 cm (8–12 inches) of mesh outward at a right angle on the soil surface and pin it down with landscape staples before covering with soil or mulch. This creates an “apron” that discourages animals that like to dig under fences.

Step 6: Build And Hang A Gate

Even a small garden fence needs a gate wide enough for a wheelbarrow. Build a simple rectangular frame from treated lumber, with cross braces if the gate is tall. Stretch chicken wire across the frame and staple it neatly on the inside face so there are no sharp edges pointing out.

Mount sturdy hinges on one side of the gate and screw them to the gate post at a comfortable height. Fit a latch or hook on the other side so the gate closes firmly against the opposite post. Check that the gate swings freely and does not scrape the ground, adjusting hinge positions if needed.

Building A Garden Fence With Chicken Wire For Small Plots

Small raised beds and compact plots have their own quirks. Space is tight, paths can be narrow, and you may want a fence you can remove at the end of the season. Chicken wire works well here because it rolls up easily once the growing year ends.

For a light fence around a raised bed, short stakes and chicken wire alone may be enough. Hammer 2×2 stakes at the corners and midpoints of each side, then wrap chicken wire around them, stapling as you go. Leave one section free at the end, and use clips or twist ties so you can open it by hand when you want to work in the bed.

Adapting Fence Height To Different Animals

Rabbits and many household pets can be stopped with fences around 90 cm (three feet) tall, as long as there are no low objects nearby that act as springboards. Chickens can hop surprisingly high, so taller sections around 120–150 cm (four to five feet) reduce escapes.

If deer visit your plot, chicken wire alone may not solve the problem, since tall, separate posts and stronger mesh are usually better. In that case, you can keep the chicken wire fence around the beds for smaller animals and add a separate, taller barrier around the whole area when needed.

Safety And Design Tips For Chicken Wire Garden Fences

Chicken wire fences may look light, but they can still cause injuries if sharp ends stick out or mesh sags into paths. Take a little extra time during the build to smooth rough spots and keep the fence tidy.

Protecting People, Pets, And Wildlife

Trim or fold back any sharp wire at the top and sides of the fence. Where children or pets play, you might cap the top with a narrow board or hose to cover cut ends. Keep mesh tight so it does not sag into paths where someone could get caught.

Choose mesh size that keeps target animals out without trapping birds or hedgehogs. Fine mesh wired firmly to posts tends to be safer than loose netting that can tangle animals. Regular walk-through checks let you spot holes, loose staples, or trapped debris before they cause problems.

Blending The Fence Into Your Garden

Chicken wire is plain by nature, which can actually help it blend in. Over time, plants become the main feature and the fence turns into a quiet backdrop. You can stain wooden posts to match nearby beds or paint them a dark green or brown so the mesh almost disappears from a distance.

Climbing plants, such as sweet peas or beans, can use the chicken wire as a support for stems and tendrils. Just be sure to leave gate areas clear, and avoid loading every panel with heavy vines that might pull the posts out of line.

Chicken Wire Fence Maintenance And Troubleshooting

Once your fence stands straight and tight, a little maintenance each year keeps it that way. Wind, wet soil, and curious animals all test the mesh and posts. Small fixes done early stop small flaws turning into big gaps.

Issue	Likely Cause	Simple Fix
Mesh sagging between posts	Posts spaced too far or staples too sparse	Add extra staples, fit a top rail, or add a mid post
Rust patches on chicken wire	Non-galvanised mesh or standing water	Replace affected panel with galvanised mesh
Animals digging under fence	No buried mesh or surface apron	Bury mesh deeper or add an outward wire apron
Loose or leaning posts	Poor backfill or shallow holes	Re-set posts deeper with gravel and concrete
Gate sagging or sticking	Hinges slipping or frame warping	Tighten hinges, add brace, trim lower edge if needed
Gaps where beds meet fence	Soil settling or poor layout	Backfill soil, add boards or extra mesh at base

Routine Checks Through The Season

Walk the fence line at least a few times during the growing season. Look for fresh scratch marks, loose staples, and damp spots near posts. After heavy rain, confirm that soil has not washed away from the base and left a gap.

Cut back plants that lean heavily on the mesh, since wet foliage can add a lot of weight. Where you see early rust on mesh or fixings, swap them now instead of waiting until winter storms rip them loose.

When To Upgrade Beyond Chicken Wire

Chicken wire fences shine for light duty protection and quick projects. If you start losing crops to strong chewers like raccoons or need a long-term deer barrier, you may need heavier welded mesh or hardware cloth in key spots. Many gardeners keep chicken wire around raised beds for rabbits and smaller animals, then add stronger sections only where larger animals push through.

Still, learning how to make garden fence with chicken wire gives you a flexible base. You can raise the height later, add inner rings around special beds, or move the mesh to new plots as your garden changes. With solid posts, tight mesh, and a simple gate, your fence will protect your plants and still let you enjoy the view of the beds on the other side.