How To Get Rid Of Spiders Outside My House | Sweep Not Spray

Pulling out a can of pesticide spray feels like the right move when spiders set up shop around your foundation. You see the web, you aim, you spray. Done.

But that satisfaction fades fast. University and pest control sources agree: outdoor spraying rarely works for long. The real fix comes from removing their homes, starving their food source, and sealing the cracks they use to get inside.

Why Spraying Is Usually Wasted Effort

Spiders aren’t insects, and they don’t behave like cockroaches or ants. They don’t crawl across treated surfaces looking for food. Instead, they sit in their webs or hide in cracks, waiting for prey to wander into range.

A pesticide spray has to directly hit the spider or be applied to a surface the spider will later walk across. Outdoors, rain, sun, and wind break down chemicals quickly. The spray dries, the spider stays dry in its web, and the problem continues.

The University of Kentucky entomology extension notes that web removal and eliminating the insect food source is a much better way to resolve spider problems than spraying. Orkin’s pest professionals echo that: spraying alone rarely works.

Why Homeowners Reach for the Spray First

Spraying feels like action. It’s easy, fast, and the marketing promises results. But the psychology of the quick fix often backfires when it comes to spiders. Here’s what trips people up:

• Visible webs trigger a response. A web in the corner looks messy, so you want to destroy it immediately. Spraying wets the web temporarily, but the spider rebuilds nearby unless you physically remove the structure.
• Label claims sound convincing. Many sprays say “kills spiders,” but that usually means direct contact. After the spray dries, it’s much less effective on spiders than on crawling insects.
• Egg sacs hide in plain sight. A single egg sac can hold hundreds of spiderlings. Killing the adult doesn’t stop the next generation, and sprays often miss the protected sacs.
• Food source removal feels indirect. Spiders eat insects. Reducing outdoor lighting, cleaning up debris, and trimming vegetation cuts the insect population, but that work takes time and isn’t satisfying in the moment.
• Spraying doesn’t seal entry points. Even if you kill every spider you see, new ones wander in from the yard. The only lasting barrier is physical sealing of gaps.

The short version: spraying treats the symptom, not the cause. To actually reduce spider numbers, you have to break the cycle at the web, the food, and the entry point.

Start With Web Removal and Egg Sacs

Walk your home’s perimeter at night with a flashlight. You’ll see the webs lit up. A broom, a long-handled duster, or a vacuum with a hose attachment can knock them down. Pay special attention to eaves, window frames, porch lights, and corners near doors.

Each egg sac can contain hundreds of eggs, which is why the University of Kentucky entomology guide emphasizes removing spider egg sacs as a critical step. Pop them into a sealed bag or crush them against a hard surface — just make sure you destroy them completely. Left intact, they’ll hatch and repopulate the area in weeks.

Consistency matters. Knock down webs weekly during peak spider season (late summer to fall). Spiders are territorial; if you keep their web anchors clean, they’ll move elsewhere.

Web removal alone won’t stop spiders from returning if they still have food and entry points. Use it as the first step, then move on to sealing and habitat management.

Seal Cracks and Gaps Around Your Home

Spiders enter through surprisingly small openings. A gap of 1/16 inch is enough for many species. The goal is to close every route from the foundation to the roofline. Here’s a sequence that covers the most common entry points:

1. Inspect the foundation. Walk the entire perimeter and look for cracks, gaps where siding meets concrete, and spaces around pipes or wires. Use caulk for hairline cracks and expanding foam for larger voids.
2. Replace or repair window screens. One torn screen is an open door. Patch holes with screen repair tape or replace the screen. Also check the weather stripping around windows and doors.
3. Install door sweeps. The gap under an exterior door is an easy highway for spiders. A new rubber sweep with a tight seal blocks that route.
4. Seal around utility lines. Where gas, electric, cable, or water lines enter the house, there’s often a gap. Stuff it with copper mesh or steel wool, then seal with caulk or foam.

Sealing can be done in a weekend and pays off for years. The best materials for different gaps are summarized below.

Once the house is sealed, you’ve removed the biggest reason spiders come inside. But you still have to manage the yard itself to reduce the spider population.

Natural Deterrents and Long-Term Maintenance

After physical removal and sealing, you can add a layer of natural repellents to discourage spiders from rebuilding. Plants like mint, lavender, rosemary, and lemon balm may help repel spiders when placed near doors and windows. Essential oil sprays (10-15 drops of peppermint oil per cup of water) are a common DIY option — spray along baseboards and window sills.

These natural options are safer than chemical sprays, but they need reapplication after rain and won’t solve a heavy infestation. According to Orkin, outdoor spider spray for lasting control, so don’t rely on repellents alone.

Long-term maintenance includes keeping vegetation trimmed at least 12 inches away from the foundation, removing stacks of firewood or debris near walls, and switching outdoor lights to yellow “bug lights” that attract fewer insects. Fewer insects mean less food for spiders, which naturally reduces their numbers over time.

The WD-40 trick — a light coating on window frames — is an anecdotal tip that some homeowners report as helpful for preventing webs on glass. It’s not a tested pest control method, but it’s harmless to try if you already have a can.

The Bottom Line

Getting rid of spiders outside your house comes down to three actions: remove webs and egg sacs weekly, seal every crack and gap in your home’s exterior, and cut off their insect food supply by managing lights and vegetation. Spraying is a temporary fix that rarely solves the root problem.

For a heavy infestation or if you’re unsure whether a spider is venomous, a licensed pest control professional can inspect your specific property and recommend a treatment plan tailored to your home’s layout and the spider species common in your area.