Types of Cord for Jewelry Making | Pick the Right String Every Time

A necklace that snaps on first wear or a bracelet where beads slide past the knot usually comes down to one mistake: wrong cord. The material, thickness, and construction of the string you pick determines whether a piece lasts for years or falls apart in a week. This guide walks through every cord type available for jewelry making — what each one does best, what thickness to buy, and which projects they belong in — so you can match the right string to your design without guessing.

What Cord Types Are Available for Jewelry Making?

Ten primary cord categories cover almost every jewelry project, from delicate bead crochet to heavy pendant necklaces. Each type has a distinct construction — braided, twisted, single-ply woven, or extruded — that changes how it knots, holds beads, and handles wear.

Chinese Knotting Cord

Braided nylon with a firm inner core. It holds complex Shamballa knots cleanly and keeps its shape under tension. Thickness ranges from 1.0 mm to 2.0 mm. The cut ends must be sealed with a lighter to stop fraying, since the braided outer layer unravels fast otherwise. Best for ornamental knotwork and designs where the cord itself is a visible design element.

KO Beading Thread

A single-ply woven nylon thread made in Japan. Extremely fine at 0.4 mm to 0.6 mm — thin enough to pass through seed beads multiple times. Used in micro-macramé and bead crochet where precision and repeat passes through tiny holes matter more than raw strength. Stiff enough to thread a needle easily but supple once worked.

Superlon Cord

Twisted multifilament nylon that combines strength with flexibility. Common thicknesses are 0.5 mm to 1.2 mm. It moves smoothly through beads without kinking, which makes it a favorite for kumihimo braiding and bead crochet. Softer than Chinese knotting cord, so it drapes better in designs that hang loose.

Waxed Cotton Cord

Multiple cotton threads twisted together and glazed with wax. The wax coating creates a smooth surface that slides through beads easily and prevents fraying. Predominant thickness is 1.0 mm to 2.0 mm. Ideal for beads with larger threading holes — the wax helps the cord hold knots without slipping. A matte natural look suits rustic or bohemian styles.

Waxed Polyester Cord

Similar to waxed cotton but made from synthetic fibers. It does not shrink or distort when exposed to moisture, unlike natural cotton. The wax coating stays intact longer and resists fraying through repeated knotting. Excellent for Shamballa bracelets and macramé projects that will be worn in humid conditions or washed occasionally.

Hemp Cord

Natural, biodegradable, and eco-friendly. Thin hemp (1.0 mm to 2.0 mm) works for lightweight macramé bracelets, while thick hemp up to 5.0 mm carries heavier beads and pendants. The 5 mm variety is common at big-box craft stores. Hemp absorbs moisture and stretches slightly over time. Knots hold firmly because the natural fibers grip each other.

Satin Cord (Rattail)

A soft, shiny cord with a smooth satin surface — usually polyester or nylon. Similar in construction to Chinese knotting cord but glossier and more flexible. Available in many colors with a polished finish that catches light. Used for kumihimo braiding, Shamballa knots, and any design where the cord needs a dressy, reflective look.

Leather and Suede Cord

Round leather cords or suede wrapped around a cotton core (sometimes called Regaliz cord). Thickness ranges from 1.0 mm to 4.0 mm. The natural grip of leather holds knots securely and gives pendants a substantial feel. Suede versions are softer and drapier. Both develop character with wear but can stiffen if exposed to water repeatedly.

Elastic Cord

Stretchy nylon cord used for slip-on bracelets and anklets. Thickness runs from 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm. Thinner elastic (0.5 mm to 0.8 mm) is fine for small beads but prone to snapping under tension; 1.0 mm or thicker is safer for stone or glass beads. Knot the ends with a surgeon’s knot and add a dab of glue for security. Elastic degrades with UV exposure and body oils over time.

Paracord

Nylon parachute cord built for strength. Typically 4 mm to 5 mm in diameter with a braided outer sheath and inner strands. Too thick for most small beads but excellent for bold macramé bracelets, survival-style designs, and projects where the cord is the main visual element. Cut ends fuse cleanly with a lighter.

How Does Cord Thickness Affect Bead Selection?

Bead hole diameter determines the maximum cord thickness you can use — and the minimum cord thickness that will keep beads from sliding loose. A bead with a 1.5 mm hole needs cord roughly 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm thick for a snug fit. Using 0.5 mm cord in a 2.5 mm hole leaves the bead flopping sideways, and the design will never sit evenly.

For beads with holes larger than 2.0 mm, use cord in the 1.5 mm to 2.5 mm range — waxed cotton, waxed polyester, or leather work well. If you only have thinner cord, place a small bead on each side of the large bead to hold it in position. This trick stabilizes the big bead without changing the stringing material.

If you’re shopping for a ready-made option that works across a wide range of bead sizes, our roundup of the best necklace cord options lists tested picks by thickness, durability, and knot-holding ability so you can grab the right spool for your next project.

What Are the Most Common Mistakes With Jewelry Cord?

Even experienced makers make these errors, and they all lead to failed projects or broken pieces.

Not sealing cut ends on braided nylon cords. Chinese knotting cord, paracord, and rattail all unravel within minutes if the cut end isn’t fused. A quick pass with a lighter seals the braid — just avoid burning the cord or your fingers.

Matching cord thickness to bead hole size wrong. Thin thread in a large hole lets beads slide and creates an uneven look. Measure both the bead hole and the cord before stringing. The cord should fill about 60–80% of the hole diameter for a secure fit.

Using weak cord for heavy stone or metal beads. Fine cotton or hemp under 1.0 mm snaps under the weight of large beads. Switch to leather, thick waxed polyester, or paracord for anything over 10 grams per bead.

Ignoring moisture resistance. Natural cotton and hemp absorb water, shrink, and rot over time. Waxed polyester or nylon cords hold up in designs that get wet — bracelets worn while washing hands, necklaces worn in humid climates.

Choosing non-stretch cord for elastic bracelets. Cotton or leather has no give, so a tight-fitting bracelet becomes impossible to get on and off. Elastic cord is the only correct choice for stretchy slip-on designs.

How to Choose the Right Cord for Your Next Project

Start with three questions: What bead sizes am I using? Does the design need to stretch? Will the piece get wet or stay dry?

For small seed beads — anything under 3 mm in diameter — reach for KO beading thread or Superlon. Both are thin enough to pass through multiple times and hold knots tight. For medium beads with holes around 1.5 mm to 2.0 mm, waxed cotton or waxed polyester at 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm handles most designs. Large-hole beads and heavy pendants call for leather or thick waxed cord at 1.5 mm to 4.0 mm.

Stretchy bracelets need elastic cord — not cotton or leather. Macramé and knot-heavy designs work best with Chinese knotting cord or waxed polyester because both hold their shape under tension. Eco-friendly or rustic looks point toward hemp or silk.

One last rule: buy one spool of a new cord type before committing to a bulk order. Test it on a small project. Knots, drape, and feel vary between brands even when the material label is the same. A 10-meter spool of waxed cotton runs about $3.50 to $5.00 — cheap enough to test before scaling up.