Long-haired dogs need a slicker brush, pin brush, and comb to prevent painful mats and keep the coat healthy.
For the full breakdown, see our best Dog Brush For Shedding Labs guide.
Long coats tangle fast — sometimes within days of a full brush-out. The right dog grooming tools for dogs with long hair make the difference between a ten-minute routine and a stressful fight over mats that have already set in. Skip the cheap single brush and build a small kit that matches your dog’s coat type.
The Core Kit Every Long-Haired Dog Needs
Professional groomers rely on a short list of tools for long coats, and each one has a specific job. These four tools cover nearly every long-haired breed from Golden Retrievers to Shih Tzus.
Slicker Brush
A slicker brush has fine, angled wire pins on a flat or slightly curved pad. It removes tangles, knots, and loose hair from the topcoat and is the workhorse for longer, fuller, or double coats. Use it first in your routine to break up surface tangles before they tighten into mats.
Pin Brush
Pin brushes have widely spaced, rounded pins with a cushioned base. They suit longer fine coats and double-coated breeds like Collies and Shelties, helping untangle, separate, and fluff the coat without scratching the skin. If your dog has a silky or fine long coat, reach for the pin brush before the slicker.
Wide-Tooth and Fine-Tooth Combs
Grooming combs — often called greyhound combs — have two tooth widths on one tool. The wide side works through loose tangles; the fine side checks for small knots the brushes missed. A comb is the finishing tool that catches what brushing leaves behind, and for long-haired dogs that mat quickly, this final pass prevents problems from hiding under the topcoat.
Undercoat Rake
An undercoat rake has long, widely spaced teeth that reach through the topcoat to pull dead hair from the undercoat of double-coated breeds. It disturbs the topcoat less than a de-shedding tool while removing the loose undercoat that causes seasonal shedding and matting at the skin line.
The Right Order for Brushing Long Hair
The order matters as much as the tools. Brushing in the wrong sequence pushes tangles deeper and pulls painfully at the skin.
Start with the slicker or pin brush to loosen tangles and lift loose hair from the topcoat. Work in small sections, holding the coat at the base to reduce pulling. Follow with the comb to find remaining small knots and mats near the skin, where the worst damage happens. Finish with the undercoat rake only if your dog has a double coat with dead undercoat hair to remove. De-shedding tools come last and only where appropriate for the breed.
| Tool | Best For | Use Order |
|---|---|---|
| Slicker brush | Long, thick, or double coats — removing tangles and loose hair | First pass |
| Pin brush | Long fine coats and double coats — untangling, separating, fluffing | First pass on fine coats |
| Grooming comb | Final check for small knots and mats near the skin | Second pass |
| Undercoat rake | Double coats — removing dead undercoat with minimal topcoat disturbance | Third, for double coats only |
| De-shedding tool | Loose undercoat on breeds where undercoat removal is appropriate | Seasonal, not for detangling |
| Bristle brush | Smooth, short coats — finishing shine | Skip for most long coats |
Which Tools to Skip at Home
Not every tool in a groomer’s kit belongs in an owner’s hands. Stripping knives and Coat King-style tools are professional-use instruments that groomers train for years to handle correctly. The British School of Grooming identifies these as specialist tools for hand-stripping and coat-thinning work — using them wrong cuts the coat or damages the skin. Leave them to the pros.
De-shedding tools also get misused. They remove loose undercoat from breeds like Labrador Retrievers and German Shepherds, but they are not general-purpose detanglers. For long coats that are not heavily undercoated, a de-shedding tool can thin the coat or irritate the skin. Match the tool to the actual coat — not to what a product label promises.
Slicker brushes suit long and thick coats; pin brushes handle longer fine coats; bristle brushes are for smooth, short coats. Choosing by coat type keeps both the dog comfortable and the coat healthy.
How Often to Brush Long-Haired Dogs
Long hair mats fastest where friction happens — behind the ears, under the collar, and between the legs. Daily brushing is ideal for most long-haired breeds; every other day is the practical minimum for coats that tangle aggressively.
Brushing sessions should end with a comb pass over the whole body, not just the easy spots. The British School of Grooming’s tool guidance emphasizes checking the trouble zones where mats form silently. If your comb snags on a mat that has already set, do not pull — work it apart gently with your fingers or cut it out carefully with rounded scissors. Dogs that are brushed consistently need fewer dematting sessions and tolerate grooming far better. If your dog is a heavy shedder, a targeted brush for shedding-heavy breeds can also help you manage loose hair between full grooming sessions.
Long-coated dogs that go too long between brushings end up needing clippers — or a vet visit for severe matting. A consistent routine with the right tools keeps their coat soft, their skin healthy, and grooming a calm part of the day instead of a fight.
FAQs
Can I use a human hairbrush on my long-haired dog?
Human brushes lack the pin spacing and angle needed to penetrate a dog’s dense coat. They skim the surface and leave tangles at the skin line, where mats form. Invest in properly spaced pet brushes instead — they reach deeper and pull less.
My dog hates being brushed — what am I doing wrong?
Most likely you are pulling on existing tangles. Brush in small sections, hold the coat at the base while brushing, and use a detangling spray for dry or knot-prone coats. Short, frequent sessions with treats build tolerance faster than long, painful ones.
Do de-shedding tools work on all long-haired dogs?
No. De-shedding tools remove loose undercoat and suit double-coated breeds specifically. Long-haired dogs with minimal undercoat, like Maltese or Yorkshire Terriers, do not need them — and using one can damage their coat and irritate their skin.
References & Sources
- The Groomers Online. “The Groomers Brush and Tool Guide.” Breaks down brush types and matching tools to coat types.
- QC Pet Studies. “Dog Grooming Tools: A Quick Reference Guide.” Details the functions of slicker brushes, pin brushes, combs, and rakes.
- British School of Grooming. “Dog Grooming Tools Every Groomer Should Have in Their Kit.” Identifies professional-use tools and standard kit items.