Build a 30–36 inch fence with 1-inch mesh wire, bury 4–6 inches with an outward apron, and keep every opening under 1 inch.
Rabbits don’t need much of an opening. If their head slips through, the rest tends to follow. That’s why a rabbit fence isn’t about brute height. It’s about tight mesh, tidy edges, and no easy entry along the ground.
Below you’ll get a build you can finish in a day: pick the right wire, set posts that don’t wobble, handle corners and a gate cleanly, then lock down the spots rabbits use most.
What Makes A Rabbit Fence Work
A fence works when it blocks three rabbit moves: squeezing, digging, and short hops.
- Squeezing: Use wire openings that stay small. A 1-inch mesh is a common ceiling for garden fencing, and smaller mesh gives extra margin.
- Digging: Put wire below grade and flare it outward so digging hits metal, not open soil.
- Hops: Keep the top edge stiff and tall enough that a hop won’t clear it.
University Extension guidance lines up on the basics: 1-inch mesh works for gardens, and the bottom edge should go below ground with a flare that blocks digging.
Choose Materials That Match Your Yard And Budget
Start with the wire. Some “chicken wire” rolls are loose and can flex, which can turn a small opening into a larger one. Welded wire or hardware cloth holds its shape better and keeps openings consistent. For most gardens, aim for 1-inch openings or smaller.
Then pick posts and fasteners that keep the mesh tight. A tight fence stays rabbit-proof longer than a taller fence that sags.
Wire Options In Plain Terms
Hardware cloth (welded, stiff) fits beds where rabbits show up often. Welded wire in 1×1 inches can also work at 30–36 inches tall. Poultry netting can work too, but choose a heavier roll and tie it often so it doesn’t slump.
Post And Fastener Picks
Metal T-posts go in fast and last years. Wood posts make gate hanging easier. For wood, use rot-resistant lumber and exterior-grade staples. For metal, use wire ties or heavy zip ties. Add U-shaped ground pins for the bottom apron.
Plan The Layout Before You Dig
Mark the fence line with string, then mark corners and the gate. Keep the fence close to beds so rabbits can’t hop over and still land inside. Put the gate on level ground so it won’t swing over a bump and leave daylight under one corner.
Building A Garden Fence That Keeps Rabbits Out With Fewer Fixes
This build uses a low, tight fence plus a dig-stop apron. UC IPM describes bending and burying the bottom portion of mesh to stop rabbits from digging under. UC IPM: Rabbits (Fencing section) lays out that bent-bottom approach.
Step 1: Set Corner Posts First
Corner posts carry the pull of stretched wire. Set them first and get them plumb. For a small garden, set wood corners 18–24 inches deep. For metal, drive T-posts until they feel locked. If your soil is loose, go deeper.
Step 2: Place Line Posts At A Steady Spacing
Use 6–8 foot spacing for stiff wire, or 4–6 feet for softer poultry netting. Closer spacing keeps the mesh tight, which cuts sag and bulges.
Step 3: Dig A Shallow Trench
Dig a trench 4–6 inches deep along the fence line. Keep it narrow. Nebraska Extension: Managing Rabbit Damage notes burying the bottom edge and flaring the buried part outward to block digging.
Step 4: Attach The Mesh With Tension
Unroll the wire along the outside of the posts. Start at a corner post and fasten the mesh near the top, then work down. Keep tension as you go. On wood posts, staple every 6–8 inches along each post. On metal posts, tie at the top, middle, and bottom.
Fold back sharp cut ends or cap them so they don’t snag sleeves or hands while you garden.
Step 5: Make The Dig-Stop Apron
Bend the bottom of the mesh outward, away from the bed, at a right angle. Aim for a 6-inch apron if you have room. Backfill the trench over the buried portion and pin the apron to the soil with garden staples every 12–18 inches.
If you can’t do a full apron because of pavers or tight borders, bury deeper and pin the fence tight to the ground. Iowa State Extension notes that a 24–36 inch fence can be enough for rabbits and recommends pinning fencing to the soil to stop rabbits from crawling underneath. Iowa State Extension: Protect Trees And Shrubs From Animal Damage spells out the height range and pin-down method.
Step 6: Tie Corners And Seams Like You Mean It
At corners, overlap mesh by at least 6 inches and tie it every few inches. Overlap keeps a corner stiff and blocks a seam from opening over time.
Fence Specs You Can Copy
Use this table as a build sheet. Pick values that match your garden size, soil, and the rabbits you see.
| Fence Detail | Target Range | Why It Helps |
|---|---|---|
| Wire opening size | 1 inch or smaller | Stops squeeze-through at weak spots |
| Fence height | 30–36 inches | Blocks hops, stays easy to work over |
| Buried depth | 4–6 inches | Stops under-edge slips |
| Bottom apron | 6 inches outward | Turns digging into a dead end |
| Post spacing | 4–8 feet | Keeps mesh tight, reduces sag |
| Gate bottom gap | Under 1 inch | Blocks the easiest entry point |
| Fastener spacing | Every 6–8 inches on wood | Prevents bulges that form openings |
| Top edge finish | Folded or capped | Stiffens the line and reduces snags |
Build A Gate That Doesn’t Leave A Rabbit-Sized Gap
Gates are where most rabbit fences fail. Keep the gate square and stiff so it doesn’t rack. If the latch side drifts, the gap widens and rabbits will find it.
Make a simple wood frame from 2×2s or 2×3s, staple mesh on the outside face, then add a diagonal brace from the lower hinge side to the upper latch side. Hang it with outdoor-rated hinges and add a latch that pulls the gate snug against a stop block.
Gate Details That Pay Off
- Threshold strip: Lay a board, paver, or brick row under the gate swing to keep the bottom gap steady after rain.
- Side stop: Screw a thin strip of wood to the fence post so the gate closes against it, not past it.
- Self-closing habit: A spring hinge or gravity latch helps when your hands are full.
Close The Tiny Openings Rabbits Love
Once the fence is up, do a slow walk around it at rabbit height. Look for daylight under the bottom edge, loose corners, and spots where grass clumps lift the mesh.
- Where the fence crosses a dip or mound
- Along the gate swing path
- Where mesh meets a raised bed, wall, or step
- At seams where two rolls meet
Fix small gaps right away. A patch now is easier than reworking a whole side later.
When Taller Fence Or Smaller Mesh Fits Better
If you see larger rabbits or your fence borders brush, go taller and tighter. Cornell Cooperative Extension notes that a 2-foot fence can be sufficient when the bottom is tight to the ground or buried, and it also notes using mesh 1 inch or smaller. Cornell Cooperative Extension PDF: Rabbits includes that mesh size guidance.
Smaller mesh can also help with young rabbits. Many gardeners patch only the lower 18 inches with 1/2-inch hardware cloth, then use 1-inch mesh above it to save cost and time.
Maintenance That Keeps The Fence Working
Check the fence after heavy rain, after mowing, and after the first snow if you garden late. Snow can act like a step, so clear drifts that pile near the fence line. Re-tie any loose spot and replace any staple or tie that has backed out.
Troubleshooting Rabbit Break-Ins
If rabbits still get in, track the entry point. Look for bent wire, scratch marks, and a single spot where grass is pressed down.
| What You See | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Plants clipped near the gate | Gate gap at bottom or latch side | Add a threshold strip and a stop block |
| Tunnel under one section | No buried edge or apron | Bury 4–6 inches and pin an outward apron |
| Chewed stems near a corner | Mesh seam pulled open | Overlap 6 inches and tie every few inches |
| Wire bowed outward | Posts too far apart | Add a line post and re-tie the section |
| Rabbits inside after snow | Snow drift creates a step-up | Clear drifts and raise height to 36 inches |
| Small rabbit inside, fence looks fine | Mesh openings too large | Patch lower 18 inches with 1/2-inch hardware cloth |
| Entry near a wall or bed edge | Gap at a hard join | Bridge with a wire patch and fasten to the solid edge |
Final Walk-Through Before You Put Tools Away
- Push along the bottom edge with your boot. If it lifts, add pins or backfill.
- Close the gate and check gaps on all sides.
- Scan corners and seams for overlap and tight ties.
- Run a gloved hand along the top edge and fold or cap sharp points.
Once the fence passes that check, your garden stops being a free salad bar. You’ll still see rabbits in the yard. They’ll just stay on the outside.
References & Sources
- Nebraska Extension.“Managing Rabbit Damage.”Notes 1-inch mesh fencing and burying the bottom edge about 4 inches, with an outward flare to block digging.
- UC Statewide IPM Program.“Rabbits (Grape) — Fencing.”Describes fence height guidance and a bent, buried bottom section to keep rabbits from digging under.
- Iowa State University Extension And Outreach.“How To Protect Trees And Shrubs From Animal Damage Over Winter.”Gives a 24–36 inch fence height range and pin-down methods to stop rabbits from slipping underneath.
- Cornell Cooperative Extension.“Rabbits.”Notes using 1-inch mesh or smaller and that a 2-foot fence can work when the bottom is tight to the ground or buried.