Building an easel for kids takes about two hours, basic lumber, and a handful of hinges, screws, and a safety chain to prevent tipping.
Whether the goal is a chalkboard, a whiteboard, or a paper roll, a children’s easel starts with the same core structure — two A-frame sides joined at the top and stabilized so it cannot open too wide. The good news: this is a beginner-friendly weekend project that uses common lumber from any home center, and the whole thing can be built with a saw, a drill, and a screwdriver.
Before buying anything, decide what surface the easel will hold. The build steps differ slightly depending on whether you’re mounting a dry-erase board, a chalkboard, or a dowel for paper rolls. The plans below cover the common variations so the final result matches how your kids actually draw.
What Materials and Dimensions Do You Need?
The material list stays consistent across the most detailed build guides, with just a couple of lumber size differences. Most plans call for standard pine or hardwood 1×3 and 1×4 boards, and This Old House specifically recommends oak or maple for a sturdier frame.
- Frame lumber: 1×3 boards for the legs and cross braces; 1×4 boards for the feet, tray sides, and dowel supports.
- Hardware: two strap hinges, wood screws (1¼-inch and 3/4-inch), washers, wood glue, and a 300–400 mm chain or cord.
- Surface: a dry-erase board, chalkboard, or 1/4-inch hardboard panel, plus a dowel for paper rolls.
- Tools: circular saw or miter saw, drill with pilot-hole bits, screwdriver, and sandpaper.
Mitre 10’s plan uses metric dimensions — four legs cut to 1100 mm and four crossmembers at 674 mm — while This Old House works in feet and inches, cutting four legs from 8-foot 1x3s and adding 24-inch cross braces plus 14-inch side brackets. Either measurement system works; just stay consistent throughout the project.
How to Build the Two Side Frames
The easel’s strength comes from two identical A-frame sides. Building them accurately means the finished piece stands square and does not wobble.
Start by cutting the legs to length. For one side, lay two legs flat and position the cross braces between them. This Old House’s method attaches the braces with 1¼-inch screws driven through pilot holes — using a 3/32-inch bit for the braces and a 1/8-inch bit for the hinge hardware. Kreg Tool’s plan prefers pocket-hole joinery: drill pocket holes set for 3/4-inch material, then fasten with 1 1/4-inch coarse-thread pocket hole screws for a clean, gap-free joint.
Repeat the process for the second frame. When both sides are assembled, check that the legs sit flat on the floor and the frames are mirror images of each other before moving on.
Attaching the Surface and Adding the Safety Restraint
With both frames complete, the writing surface mounts to the front, and the safety chain goes between the legs to prevent the whole thing from collapsing or tipping forward.
Drill pilot holes before driving screws into the board or acrylic/plexiglass, and avoid over-tightening — one guide specifically warns that overtightened screws crack plexiglass. Mount the board with 1¼-inch screws, then attach the hinges near the top of both frames, roughly 100 mm from the sides or about 3 1/2 inches in from each edge. The hinge placement matters: too close to the center makes the easel unstable; too far out makes the legs bind.
Now add the chain or rope — a 300–400 mm cord works for a standard child-size easel. Attach one end to each leg near the bottom cross brace so the legs cannot spread past a safe angle. Without this limiter, a child leaning on the tray can push the legs past vertical and tip the whole easel. Sand every edge and corner smooth before handing it over; several plans call out this step to prevent splinters from the cut ends.
Finishing Touches and Paper Roll Options
The final details turn a bare frame into something kids actually enjoy using. This Old House’s plan adds plastic trays along the bottom, held on with 3/4-inch screws and washers, to keep markers, chalk, and brushes within easy reach. A dowel inserted through holes in the side supports holds a paper roll, and magnets or clips keep the paper tight against the board.
If the easel will live outdoors, use exterior-grade paint or sealant on the frame and trim so moisture does not warp the joints. For indoor use, two coats of a low-VOC paint or clear sealer protects the wood from marker stains and chalk dust.
| Project Source | Key Dimensions | Joinery Method |
|---|---|---|
| This Old House | 8-ft 1x3s; 24″ braces; 14″ brackets | Pilot holes, 1¼” screws |
| Mitre 10 | 1100 mm legs; 674 mm crossmembers | 30 mm x 6 gauge screws |
| Kreg Tool | 1×3 legs; 1×4 feet and tray parts | Pocket holes, 1¼” screws |
Every plan ends with the same practical advice: secure the paper-roll dowel so it cannot slide out mid-drawing, and check the chain attachment regularly for wear. A kids’ easel takes real abuse, and the safety restraint is the one part that should never be skipped. When comparing finished options or looking for a ready-made model with the same safety features, our roundup of the best easels for kids breaks down the top-rated choices side by side.
FAQs
What lumber is best for a homemade kids’ easel?
Standard 1×3 pine boards work for most plans, but This Old House recommends oak or maple for a sturdier frame that resists warping. Hardwood costs a little more but holds screws better and survives years of active use without splitting at the joints.
How tall should a children’s easel be?
Mitre 10’s plan builds legs at 1100 mm (about 43 inches), which suits most kids from age three to eight. Adjust the leg length up or down by a few inches to match your child’s standing height — the tray should sit around waist level so they can reach the surface comfortably.
How do I stop a DIY easel from tipping over?
A chain, rope, or cord fixed between the legs limits how far the frame can open. Attach it near the bottom cross braces with a maximum spread of about 300–400 mm, and check the hardware regularly. This single restraint prevents the most common tip-over accidents.
References & Sources
- This Old House. “How to Build an Easel.” Step-by-step build using oak 1x3s, cross braces, and a dry-erase board.
- Mitre 10. “How to Make a Child’s Easel.” Metric dimensions, hinge placement, and the 300–400 mm cord safety restraint.
- Kreg Tool. “Creative Kids’ Easel Plan.” Pocket-hole joinery for a clean frame with a 1/4-inch hardboard work surface.