How To Get Rid Of Ground Cover In Garden? | Weed Control

Ground cover can look neat in the first year, then suddenly swallow paths, shrubs, and every bare corner of a bed. Runners creep under edging, pop up in lawns, and twist around stems you care about. The good news: with a clear plan and steady work you can reclaim that space and keep it tidy.

Many gardeners search for “how to get rid of ground cover in garden?” after one tough season with ivy, vinca, or creeping Jenny. The methods below work for most spreading plants, whether they were sold as ornamentals or turned up uninvited. You will see when simple hand work is enough and when you need heavier tools or smothering.

What Makes Ground Cover Hard To Remove

Most ground cover plants do not rely on a single taproot. They spread through runners that root at every node, fine fibrous roots close to the surface, or tough underground stems. That web means any piece left behind can restart a patch within weeks.

Some species also store plenty of energy in thick roots or crowns. When you tear away only the leaves, the buried parts push new stems up again. Knowing how a plant spreads helps you choose the right removal method and how deep to dig.

Ground Cover Plant	How It Spreads	Best Manual Removal Tactic
Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)	Surface runners that root at nodes	Lift mats in strips, shake soil off, then hand pull remaining roots
English Ivy (Hedera helix)	Woody stems, clinging roots along the vine	Cut stems into sections, lever out with a fork, then sift out leftover roots
Vinca Minor (Periwinkle)	Arching stems that root where they touch soil	Pull stems in handfuls after rain, then dig stubborn crowns
Pachysandra	Underground rhizomes and dense crowns	Slice under clumps with a spade and remove whole sheets
Ajuga (Bugleweed)	Short runners with shallow roots	Lift plants with a hand fork and rake remaining pieces
Creeping Thyme	Low mats, fibrous roots	Peel mats back in sections, then rake and rework the topsoil
Mint Species	Strong underground runners	Dig a trench around the patch and remove roots with a fork

This table shows why a single pass with a hoe rarely works. You are dealing with a layered root network, not just the growth you can see. The next steps walk through a simple method that fits most gardens and can be adapted to each plant in your beds.

How To Get Rid Of Ground Cover In Garden? Step By Step

The aim is to weaken the plants, remove as much root material as possible, then block light for any small pieces that remain. Work in strips so the task feels manageable and you always know which areas are finished.

Assess The Size And Density Of The Patch

Start by marking the area you want clear with string or a hose laid on the surface. Note where the ground cover climbs into shrubs, wraps around tree trunks, or meets lawn edges. Check whether stems have crept under fences or into neighbouring plots.

If you can, take a photo before you start. It sounds simple, yet it helps to track progress and spot spots you missed later. This first walk-through also tells you whether one weekend will handle the job or if you should spread work across a few sessions.

Water And Loosen The Soil First

Damp soil releases roots much more easily than dry, compacted ground. Water the area deeply the day before you pull plants, or time work for the day after steady rain. Avoid working in sticky mud, as clumps cling to roots and make it harder to see what you have removed.

Use a digging fork to loosen the top 10 to 15 centimetres of soil without chopping the roots into tiny pieces. Slide the tines in, rock them back, and feel for thick crowns or woody stems. This gentle lift lets you pull longer lengths of root in one go.

Pull Ground Cover By Hand In Sections

Work from one edge of the patch toward the centre. Grasp a fistful of stems close to the soil and pull steadily rather than yanking. When the soil is loose, long strands often peel back in sheets with roots attached.

Drop pulled plants straight into a trug or tarp. Ground cover fragments re-root very quickly, so avoid leaving piles on bare soil. Once you clear a square metre or two, pause and comb through the exposed soil with your hands or a hand fork for leftover pieces.

Use A Spade Or Fork For Tough Mats

Older plantings often knit together into a dense layer that hand pulling alone cannot shift. Slide a sharp spade or border fork under the mat at a shallow angle. Lift a section, flip it over, then slice it free from surrounding soil.

Break big pieces apart, shake soil back into the bed, and bag stems and roots. Take care around shallow roots of shrubs or trees. Where roots of valued plants mix with the ground cover, switch to hand tools and slow, careful work.

Dispose Of Ground Cover So It Cannot Re-Root

Do not place invasive ground cover straight on an open compost heap. Many species survive a mild composting cycle and then spread again when you use the finished compost. Bag green waste for municipal collection, burn where local rules allow, or rot it down in a sealed black sack.

If your local site allows it, you can also dry plants on a hard surface until they are crispy before composting. Check for fresh shoots first, then add only dead, crumbly material to the heap.

Removing Ground Cover In Your Garden Safely

Manual removal suits most home plots, yet some situations call for extra help. Large banks, steep slopes, or areas woven through tough roots can resist hand tools. In these spots you might combine digging with smothering or careful use of herbicides.

Suffocating plants under a light-proof layer avoids repeated digging. Lay overlapping sheets of cardboard directly on the soil, then add 10 to 15 centimetres of wood chips or other bulky mulch. Leave this in place for several months so shoots use up stored energy and die back.

The Royal Horticultural Society explains this smothering approach for ivy and other weeds in its advice on ivy as a ground cover weed. Thick coverings block light, soften the soil, and make any surviving roots easier to lift later.

When Herbicides Enter The Picture

Some gardeners turn to a non-selective herbicide for large or long-established patches. Products that contain glyphosate move through leaves into roots and can clear dense areas before replanting. This approach needs care so spray does not touch nearby plants you want to keep.

Always read the entire product label and follow safety directions, clothing guidance, and waiting periods before planting again. The National Pesticide Information Center notes in its glyphosate fact sheet that labels describe the correct concentration, protective gear, and first aid steps for each formulation.

Spot Treating Instead Of Spraying Everything

If you would rather avoid broad spraying, try spot treatment. Paint herbicide onto individual leaves with a foam brush or sponge, or use a shield on the sprayer nozzle to confine the mist. Work on calm days so drift does not land on shrubs or perennials.

After any chemical treatment, wait for the plants to brown, then still remove stems and roots. This keeps the soil surface clean and gives you a chance to catch pieces that recovered or missed the spray.

Tools And Timing For Ground Cover Removal

A few sturdy tools and good timing turn a daunting patch into a steady weekend task. You do not need fancy gadgets, just well-chosen basics that match the size of your beds and the plants you are tackling.

Method	Best Use	Time And Effort
Hand Pulling	Small, young patches in loose soil	Slow but gentle, suits tight spaces and around prized plants
Digging With A Spade	Dense clumps with thick crowns	Faster clearing, more strain on back and shoulders
Fork Lifting	Woody stems and deep roots	Good balance of strength and control, protects soil structure
Smothering With Cardboard And Mulch	Large beds, slopes, or hard-to-reach corners	Low labour once laid, needs patience over months
Solarization With Clear Plastic	Sunny spots with persistent weeds	Season-long project, effective in warm climates
Targeted Herbicide	Very tough or re-sprouting patches	Quick kill when used correctly, follow label instructions
Replanting With Taller Shrubs	Beds where you want long-term shade over soil	More planting work now, less weeding later

Pick one main method for your plot and add others only where needed. Many gardeners clear the top growth by hand, smother the area for a season, then replant with shrubs and clump-forming perennials that cast shade on bare soil.

Keeping Ground Cover From Coming Back

Once you have done the hard work of clearing plants, a few habits keep beds clear. Think in layers: remove new shoots early, shield soil from light, and fill cleared gaps with plants that stay put.

Monitor And Spot Pull New Shoots

For the first year after clearance, walk the area every week or two. Any small sprig that returns still has root stored underground. Grasp it close to the soil, tease out as much root as you can, and discard it with the other waste.

A narrow hand hoe or hori-hori knife helps flick out young seedlings or short runners before they tangle with fresh plantings. Short, regular sessions stop you from facing another large removal job later.

Use Mulch To Block Light And Protect Soil

Once the worst of the roots are gone, add a thick layer of organic mulch across bare areas. Aim for five to eight centimetres deep, spread evenly but kept clear of plant stems. Mulch cools the soil surface, keeps moisture steady, and blocks light from reaching many weed seeds.

Top up this layer at least once a year as it breaks down. Over time you will notice fewer ground cover seedlings and far less effort spent on weeding.

Replant With Better Behaved Ground Covers

If you still like the look of a low green carpet, choose plants that spread politely. Clump-forming perennials, small grasses, and dwarf shrubs give you coverage without the same runaway habit. Check tags and local advice for mature spread before planting.

Good sources such as the Royal Horticultural Society or your local extension service list options for sun, shade, and different soil types. Match the plant to the site so it stays healthy without taking over paths and neighbouring beds.

With a steady plan, realistic timing, and regular checks, you can answer your own question of how to get rid of ground cover in garden? and enjoy beds that show off the plants you actually chose.