Installing a deadbolt takes about 30 minutes with a screwdriver, a tape measure, and a hammer once the door is prepped.
Whether you are replacing an old lock or adding a fresh layer of security to a new door, the process for installing a deadbolt lock on a door comes down to a clear sequence: check the door’s prep, fit the bolt, mount the two housings, align the strike plate, and test everything before you close the door for good. Schlage’s own installation manuals spell out the steps, and we have condensed them here into a guide you can follow in one sitting. The single most important rule: test the lock with the door open so you never get locked out mid-project.
Check Your Door Prep and Backset First
Before any hardware goes in, confirm the door is ready for a deadbolt. Standard US residential doors use a 2 1/8-inch crossbore (the big hole for the lock body) and an edge bore for the bolt. The backset — the distance from the door edge to the center of the crossbore — is usually 2 3/8 inches or 2 3/4 inches.
Schlage’s instructions say to verify this prep before starting. For the B60/B62 series, that means checking the door and, on certain models like the B60F with a UL listing, installing the included UL cup. The crossbore and edge bore sizes are standard on prepped doors, but measure to be sure — a mismatch means the lock will not sit flush.
The backset determines whether you need to adjust the bolt. Schlage says a 2 3/8-inch backset requires no adjustment. For a 2 3/4-inch backset, you twist the faceplate to extend the bolt to the longer setting. This takes ten seconds now and saves you from a lock that binds later.
Install the Bolt and Mount the Exterior Housing
The bolt assembly goes in first. Schlage’s triple-option deadbolt guide says to orient the bolt with the word “top” facing up. Most models let you choose between a rectangular faceplate secured with two short screws, or a round drive-in faceplate that you tap flush using a block of wood and a hammer — the block protects the door edge from dents. Not every model supports both, so check the box for the hardware you have.
With the bolt in place, mount the exterior housing. Schlage says to install the outside assembly with the logo facing up, then align the tailpiece with the bolt’s slot. From the inside, secure the thumbturn with the two long screws. If you are installing a smart deadbolt like the BE375, this step includes more than screws — you will route the wiring through the bolt’s slot, connect the harness, and load batteries before securing the interior assembly. Schlage’s warning applies to every deadbolt but matters most on these: the bolt must remain retracted throughout installation, and you should install and test the lock with the door open to avoid being locked out.
Align and Secure the Strike Plate
With the lock body mounted, close the door and mark where the bolt lands on the frame. The strike plate must sit so the bolt slides fully into the hole without dragging on the edges.
Schlage notes that a reinforcement plate on the door frame is optional. If you use one, secure the strike plate over it; otherwise, attach the strike plate directly to the frame using the remaining short screws. Schlage’s installation manual specifies that the strike hole itself must be at least 1 1/4 inches (32 mm) deep so the bolt has full clearance. On the BE375, the strike hole depth is a listed requirement, not a suggestion — a shallow hole stops the bolt from seating fully.
If the bolt drags or hits the strike plate instead of sliding through, adjust the strike plate’s position or file the doorjamb slightly. Improper strike alignment is the most common cause of a deadbolt that binds, and Schlage’s guides say the fix is adjusting the strike or jamb until the bolt extends and retracts smoothly.
Test the Lock Before You Close the Door
Testing is not the last step — it is the step that keeps you from calling a locksmith. With the door open, use the thumbturn and the key to cycle the bolt several times. It should extend and retract with smooth, even resistance.
Only after that passes, close the door and test again. The bolt should slide into the strike plate without scraping. If it does not, revisit the strike plate alignment. When the bolt moves cleanly both ways, the installation is done. You now have a functioning deadbolt on a properly prepped door.
| Step | Key Detail | Schlage Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Check prep | 2 1/8-in. crossbore, 2 3/8-in. or 2 3/4-in. backset | Verify before installing hardware |
| Adjust bolt | Twist faceplate for 2 3/4-in. backset | No adjustment needed at 2 3/8 in. |
| Install bolt | Word “top” faces up | Rectangular or drive-in faceplate per model |
| Mount housings | Logo up, tailpiece aligned | Smart models add wiring and batteries |
| Set strike | Hole at least 1 1/4 in. deep | Optional reinforcement plate goes under strike |
| Test | Door open first, then closed | Adjust strike/jamb if bolt drags |
If you are shopping for a new deadbolt rather than installing one you already own, our roundup of the best door locks and deadbolts on the market compares the top picks by security rating, ease of install, and smart features, so you can choose the right one before you pick up a screwdriver.
FAQs
What tools do I need to install a deadbolt?
You need a Phillips-head screwdriver, a tape measure, and a hammer. If you are using a drive-in faceplate, a block of wood protects the door edge when you tap it flush. A chisel and sandpaper help if the strike plate needs a deeper mortise, and a drill with a 2 1/8-inch hole saw is required only if the door is not prepped.
How do I know if my door has a 2 3/8 or 2 3/4-inch backset?
Measure from the edge of the door to the center of the crossbore hole. A measurement of 2 3/8 inches is the standard residential size, while 2 3/4 inches is common on exterior doors with thicker framing. If your measurement falls between the two, check the door’s edge bore — some adjustable bolts fit both.
Why is my deadbolt hard to turn or sticking?
The most common cause is a misaligned strike plate. If the bolt hits the plate’s edge instead of sliding into the hole, it drags and makes the thumbturn stiff. Loosen the strike plate screws, shift the plate slightly, and retest. A bolt that binds inside the door edge may also need the faceplate screws checked for tightness.
References & Sources
- Schlage. “BE375 Series Touch Deadbolt Installation Guide.” Details strike hole depth, bolt retraction warnings, and testing procedure.
- Schlage. “B60/B62 Deadbolt Installation Instructions.” Covers door prep, backset adjustment, and mounting order.
- Schlage. “Triple Option Adjustable Deadbolt Installation Instructions.” Explains bolt orientation, faceplate options, and strike alignment.
