Wrapping arborvitae in burlap or installing physical barriers like wire fencing is the only method that reliably prevents deer damage, especially during winter when food is scarce.
Deer stripping the foliage off your arborvitae is one of the most frustrating sights in a winter landscape. Unlike some plants that recover from light browsing, arborvitae rarely regrow from bare branches — a badly damaged tree is often a dead one. The fix comes down to one honest trade: physical barriers stop deer every time, while sprays and scents offer temporary relief that can fail when temperatures drop or deer get hungry enough.
Wrapping Arborvitae in Burlap: The Most Reliable Method
Burlap wrapping is the gold standard for protecting arborvitae over winter. The barrier physically blocks deer from reaching the foliage and lasts the entire cold season.
The right way to wrap:
- Drive wooden stakes into the ground around the tree, keeping them 2–3 inches away from the foliage.
- Wrap burlap around the stakes, not directly against the branches. A tight wrap against the foliage traps moisture and ice, which leads to disease and branch breakage.
- Cover the tree from the ground up to at least 8 feet high — deer can reach tall on their hind legs.
- Secure the burlap with twine or zip ties. Remove it in spring so the tree can breathe.
Netting and Wire Fencing
Netting and fencing are the backup plan when wrapping isn’t practical for large groupings or tall trees. Both work on the same principle: a physical wall the deer cannot push through or jump over.
Key specifications for netting:
- Height: minimum 5 to 6 feet — shorter fences get cleared easily by a leaping deer.
- Mesh size: 3/4-inch openings keep deer noses out while remaining nearly invisible from a distance.
- Color: black netting blends into the landscape better than white or green.
- Installation: anchor the bottom to the ground with landscape staples; wrap around stakes placed every few feet around the tree or hedge row.
Fencing type comparison:
- Welded wire (black): Sturdy, long-lasting, and nearly invisible against dark soil or mulch. Best for high-traffic visible yards.
- Plastic deer fencing: Cheap but prone to breaking, collecting windblown debris, and sagging. Most experienced landscapers advise skipping it.
- Electric fencing: Highly effective — deer dislike the unnatural sensation of the shock. Requires a power source and seasonal maintenance.
Deer Repellent Options: When They Work and When They Fail
Repellents can reduce browsing pressure, but they are not a set-and-forget solution. Deer adapt to smells and tastes over time, and many repellents lose effectiveness below freezing.
| Repellent Type | How It Works | Best Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| Egg-based spray (DIY or commercial) | Sulfur compounds mimic predator scent; applied every 4–8 weeks | Mild winters, light deer pressure, trees near the house |
| Bobbex Deer Repellent | Concentrate mixes with water (32 oz formula + 2.5 gallons); ready-to-use available | Long-lasting claim; gentle on plants |
| Plantskydd (dried blood) | Mix with warm water to form a red slurry; lasts up to 3 months | Best when 24-hour rain-free drying window is possible |
| Predator Pee (coyote urine) | Mimics natural predator scent; deer instinctively avoid | Heavy deer populations where other methods have failed |
| Cayenne/soap DIY spray | Cayenne pepper + water + a drop of dish soap | Temporary deterrent; cheap to make |
Critical limitation: Egg-based sprays and water-based deterrents fail entirely in freezing temperatures — the liquid freezes or the active compounds degrade. The Davey Blog notes that reapplication must happen immediately after rain or snow, which means you can be out in freezing weather spraying the same tree every few weeks. Repellents are a tool, not a replacement for burlap or fencing.
For a breakdown of the top repellents and how they stack up in real-world testing, check our guide to the best deer repellent for arborvitae.
Can You Plant Deer-Resistant Arborvitae Instead?
Certain arborvitae species are less palatable to deer, but no variety is truly deer-proof. Western arborvitaes like Green Giant, Steeplechase, and Spring Grove show higher tolerance because their foliage has a stronger scent and coarser texture. Deer will still eat them when they are desperate — pickiness drops fast in a hard winter. Think of these varieties as buying you more time to install barriers rather than eliminating the need for them.
Other deer-resistant plants to consider for high-pressure areas:
- Boxwoods
- Spruce
- Holly bushes
- Viburnum
- Upright junipers
Same caveat applies: a starving deer will eat anything.
DIY Deterrents Worth Trying (But Don’t Count On Them Long-Term)
Gardeners have tried everything from hanging bar soap to tying dryer sheets to branches. The idea is to overwhelm the deer’s sense of smell with something offensive. Dial soap bars and dryer sheets hung from the top of the tree can offer a few weeks of reduced browsing.
These are desperation measures when burlap or fencing isn’t an option — treat them as last-minute patches, not solutions.
Common Mistakes That Ruin Your Deer Protection
Even experienced gardeners make these errors. All five turn effective protection into wasted time and money.
- Tight wrapping against foliage: Traps moisture and ice, causing branch rot and disease. Always keep burlap 2–3 inches off the branches.
- Using plastic deer fencing: Breaks after one season, collects leaves and snow, and deer push through it easily.
- Ignoring temperature limits on repellents: Egg-based sprays freeze or lose potency below 32°F. Switching to a non-freezing alternative (like dried blood products) is essential for winter.
- Assuming repellents are permanent: Deer adapt. A product that worked last winter may do nothing this year. Rotate active ingredients.
- Netting installed too low: A 4-foot fence is an invitation, not a deterrent. Minimum 5 feet for standing deer; go to 6 feet if you have large bucks that reach higher.
Quick Comparison: Barrier vs. Repellent for Your Situation
Use this guide to decide which approach fits your property and deer pressure level.
| Deer Pressure Level | Best Method | Time Commitment |
|---|---|---|
| Light (occasional browsing) | Repellent rotation (egg-based then dried blood) | Weekly reapplication in fall; monthly in summer |
| Moderate (visible damage each winter) | Burlap wrap + one repellent backup | Once in late fall; remove in early spring |
| Heavy (deer herd visits nightly) | Welded wire fencing (5–6 feet) or electric fencing | Install once; inspect yearly |
If you have heavy pressure, skip the spray aisle entirely and invest in fencing — one weekend of installation saves three months of spraying, and your arborvitae stay green.
FAQs
Will deer eat arborvitae if I plant it near the house?
Deer will eat arborvitae within feet of a window or door if they are hungry enough. Proximity to the house provides no protection — deer lose their fear of humans in residential areas, especially after dark.
How tall do arborvitae need to be before deer stop eating them?
No height makes arborvitae safe from deer. Deer strip lower branches first, then stand on their hind legs to reach higher foliage. A mature 15-foot tree will develop a “browse line” — bare branches up to 5–6 feet off the ground — if unprotected.
Do motion-activated sprinklers keep deer off arborvitae?
They work well in summer when hoses stay connected. In winter, the water freezes and the system becomes useless unless you use a heated hose (expensive). They are a seasonal tool, not a year-round solution.
Can arborvitae grow back after deer eat the needles?
Rarely. Arborvitae do not produce dormant buds on bare inner wood like many deciduous trees do. If all the needles are stripped from a branch, that branch is dead. Only the green tips — still attached — can grow new foliage, and only if the deer stop browsing immediately.
Does human hair or dog fur repel deer from arborvitae?
The effect is weak and short-lived. Rain washes away the scent within a few days, and deer quickly learn the smell does not signal a real threat. It works as a one-week patch at best.
References & Sources
- American Conifer Society. “How to Prevent Arborvitae Deer Damage” Details burlap wrapping technique with air gap requirement.
- Davey Blog. “Stop Deer from eating Arborvitae trees” Covers repellent limitations and deer-resistant variety recommendations.
- Ask Extension. “How to protect arborvitae from deer” Official cooperative extension guide on netting height and barrier installation.
- Bur Oak Land Trust. “A Winter Deer Repellent That Works” Field-tested instructions for Plantskydd application and drying requirements.
- FastGrowingTrees.com. “Bobbex Deer Repellent Formula” Product page with concentrate mixing ratio and usage guidelines.