Building a dog kennel starts with sizing it so your dog can stand, turn, and lie flat, then using weatherproof, easy-to-clean materials.
Whether you’re housing a working dog or giving your pet a secure outdoor space, the difference between a good kennel and a bad one comes down to planning. Measure first, choose materials that survive both weather and cleaning, and secure every door and latch. This guide walks through sizing, construction, and the rules that apply when you’re building for boarding or commercial use.
How Big Should a Dog Kennel Be?
Size the kennel so your dog can lie down stretched out, turn around, and stand without hitting the roof. A kennel that’s too small is uncomfortable; one that’s too large is harder to keep warm and clean.
That gives most dogs room to stretch without wasting space.
Licensed boarding kennels follow stricter floor-area rules.
For a home kennel, use these numbers as your ceiling, not your starting point — measure your own dog and build to fit.
What Materials Should You Use?
Choose surfaces that resist moisture, clean easily, and contain no toxic substances — smooth and impervious beats rough and porous.
Official boarding guidance warns against using wood in new kennel builds because it absorbs urine, harbors bacteria, and is hard to sanitize. If you’re building for a licensed operation, go with sealed concrete, smooth plastic, or metal panels instead.
For a home kennel, wood can still work if you treat it properly, but it needs extra effort:
- Use smooth, treated timber that can be wiped down
- Seal all surfaces with a non-toxic, waterproof coating
- Fit a raised floor so the kennel stays dry and air can circulate underneath
- Choose non-slip flooring that resists urine damage
Whatever you build, round off any rough edges and remove projections — dogs injure themselves on exposed nails, splinters, and sharp corners. The UK’s official kennel licensing guidance lists hazardous projections and poorly finished surfaces as common compliance failures.
How to Build the Kennel Frame and Structure
Build a solid timber base, raise the floor off the ground, then assemble walls and roof panels with proper weather protection. The structure needs to survive wind, rain, and an enthusiastic dog pushing against the walls.
- Measure your dog and mark out the base dimensions
- Build a timber frame for the base and fit a raised floor — this keeps the sleeping area dry and prevents rot
- Cut wall panels, a partition if you’re splitting sleeping and exercise areas, and roof panels to size
- Assemble the walls and secure them to the base frame
- Add a roof overhang so rain runs off rather than dripping down the walls
- Seal the roof with weatherproof material — bituminous felt or corrugated iron both work well
- Fit a close-fitting door with a secure latch that a dog can’t figure out
If your kennel has a separate exercise run, make sure the partition door between the sleeping area and run is equally secure. A dog that learns to push or paw a weak latch will test it every time you leave.
Before you start building for boarding or commercial use, check whether you need planning permission and building regulations approval — official guidance says plans may need local authority sign-off before construction begins.
Common Mistakes That Ruin a Kennel
Most kennel failures trace back to four avoidable errors: poor drainage, weak doors, untreated materials, and forgotten weather protection.
The biggest mistake is building without drainage in mind. A kennel on bare ground turns into a mud pit within a week. A raised floor or a concrete base with a slight slope solves this before it starts.
Second is skimping on the door and latch. Official licensing standards require doors to be close-fitting and secure — and for good reason. An escape-proof kennel is the whole point.
Third is using untreated wood in a structure that needs to be cleaned regularly. If you’re building for your own dog, treated timber with a sealed finish works fine. For a boarding kennel, use materials that can be hosed down and disinfected.
Finally, don’t forget weather protection on all sides. The kennel must shield your dog from drafts, rain, cold, and heat — not just from above.
If you’d rather buy than build, our roundup of top-rated dog kennels for home and yard use covers ready-made options that meet these same standards.
FAQs
Should a dog kennel have a raised floor?
Yes, for most setups. A raised floor keeps the sleeping area dry, allows air circulation underneath, and prevents the wood from rotting from ground moisture. It also makes cleaning easier since urine drains away instead of pooling.
What is the best material for a dog kennel floor?
Sealed concrete is the most durable and easiest to clean option for a permanent kennel. Non-slip rubber matting works well on top for comfort and grip. Avoid bare wood, which absorbs urine and bacteria, and smooth surfaces that get slippery when wet.
Does building a dog kennel require planning permission?
For a small home kennel, usually not, but the rules vary by location and by how large the structure is. Boarding and commercial kennels almost always require planning permission, building regulations approval, and often a license — check with your local authority before you start.
References & Sources
- UK Government. “Dog & Kennel Boarding: Licensing Statutory Guidance for Local Authorities.” Sets minimum kennel sizes, construction standards, and planning requirements for licensed boarding kennels.
