How to make a rabbit proof garden fence? Build a 24–30 inch barrier with 1-inch mesh, a tight bottom, and an outward apron to stop dig-ins.
Rabbits can turn a tidy bed into a buffet. They clip seedlings, nibble leafy tops, and keep coming back once they’ve learned the route. A fence works when it’s built for rabbit habits: squeeze-through gaps, dig-under attempts, and pressure on loose corners.
This guide shows a practical fence you can build in an afternoon, plus the small details that stop repeat repairs.
Rabbit Fence Specs That Stop Chewing And Digging
Most rabbits won’t jump a clean 2-foot barrier. The trouble starts at ground level. Plan for tight mesh, a no-gap bottom, and a dig-resistant edge.
| Fence Part | Build Target | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Height above ground | 24–30 in (use 36 in if snow piles up) | Covers normal hops and drifting snow near beds. |
| Mesh opening | 1 in or smaller | Keeps young rabbits from slipping through. |
| Wire type | Hardware cloth or welded wire, 19–16 gauge | Stiffer mesh stays tight and resists chewing better than light netting. |
| Bottom treatment | 6–10 in buried OR 10–12 in outward apron | Blocks the under-fence shortcut rabbits try first. |
| Ground contact | No gaps; pin mesh every 12–18 in | Small openings turn into a regular entry point. |
| Post spacing | 6–8 ft (4–6 ft in wind) | Stops sagging that creates bottom gaps. |
| Gate threshold | Baseboard or apron under the swing | Gates are the first place rabbits test. |
| Corner strength | Braced corners or heavier posts | Keeps tension so seams don’t loosen. |
Those targets line up with established rabbit-exclusion guidance that recommends burying wire and turning it outward to reduce dig-under attempts. You can see that method described in the UC IPM rabbits pest notes.
Materials List For A Rabbit Proof Perimeter
For most gardens, welded wire with 1-inch openings is the sweet spot. If you’re protecting tiny seedlings or you see young rabbits, add a lower strip of 1/2-inch hardware cloth where it counts.
Core Materials
- Wire mesh roll, 24–36 inches tall (welded wire or hardware cloth)
- Posts: metal T-posts for speed, or wood posts for a sturdier frame
- Fasteners: fence clips, heavy zip ties, or galvanized staples
- Landscape staples or U-pins for the bottom edge
- Gate parts: a simple frame, hinges, and a latch that pulls tight
Tools That Make The Job Easier
- Gloves, wire cutters, a tape measure, and a level
- Post driver for T-posts or a shovel for set-in posts
- Staple gun or drill/driver if you use fencing screws with washers
How To Make A Rabbit Proof Garden Fence? Step By Step Build
Read through once, then build in this order: layout, corners, posts, mesh, bottom, gate. That sequence keeps the wire tight and the line straight.
Step 1: Mark The Fence Line
Use stakes and string to mark the perimeter. Leave room outside the fence to mow or weed. Clear “step stones” near the line like stacked pots, short logs, or a leaning trellis, since rabbits use anything nearby to gain height.
Step 2: Set Corners, Then Line Posts
Put corner posts in first. For a small fence, drive T-posts 12–18 inches deep. For a larger garden or a gate, set sturdier corner posts and brace them so the mesh can be pulled tight.
Place line posts every 6–8 feet. If the run is windy or the mesh feels springy, tighten spacing to 4–6 feet.
Step 3: Pick A Bottom Strategy
Choose one method and commit to it along the whole fence:
- Buried skirt: Dig a trench 6–10 inches deep, drop the wire into it, then backfill and tamp.
- Outward apron: Bend 10–12 inches of wire outward at a right angle on the outside of the fence, then pin it down with staples every foot.
Aprons shine in rocky soil. Buried skirts look cleaner and hide under mulch.
Step 4: Attach And Tension The Mesh
Unroll the mesh along the posts. Start at a corner, then fasten to each post while keeping tension. The bottom edge should meet soil with no daylight showing. Use extra clips or staples in the lowest 12 inches, since that’s where rabbits push.
Step 5: Overlap Seams And Close Gaps
When you join rolls, overlap at least 6 inches. Tie the overlap every 4–6 inches so it behaves like one panel. If your fence meets a wall, shed, or deck, run the mesh tight to that surface and pin it. Tiny gaps at those junctions get used fast.
Step 6: Build A Gate That Closes Flush
A gate can be plain. It just needs three traits: mesh coverage, a tight latch, and a no-gap threshold. Cover the frame with the same mesh as the fence. Then handle the bottom gap with one of these:
- A low baseboard across the opening, set close to soil
- An apron that runs across the opening and gets pinned down
Pick a latch that pulls the gate snug. If wind can pop it open, rabbits will check it nightly.
Taking A Rabbit Proof Garden Fence From “Good” To “No Gaps”
This is where most builds win or lose. You’re not adding height or fancy parts. You’re removing wiggle room.
Keep The Bottom Edge Locked Down
Walk the line after rain. Soil settles and the mesh can lift. Press it back down, add staples, and tamp mulch along the edge. If you used an apron, cover it with a thin mulch layer so it won’t catch toes.
Reinforce Corners And The Gate Zone
Corners take pull from both directions. If a corner post wobbles, add a diagonal brace or a second stake just inside the corner and tie the wire to both. Around the gate, add more fasteners than you think you need, since the open-close motion loosens ties over time.
Use Smaller Mesh Low If Young Rabbits Get Through
If you spot small rabbits inside the fence, patch the bottom section with 1/2-inch hardware cloth. Fasten it over the lower 18–24 inches on the outside face so seams overlap away from the garden side.
Material Choices That Affect Cost And Lifespan
Wire and posts set the feel of the fence. Pick the lightest setup that stays tight in your yard.
| Option | Where It Fits | Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Chicken wire (poultry netting) | Short-term beds, low pressure | Sags and tears; seams loosen after a few seasons. |
| Welded wire, 1-inch | Most garden perimeters | Needs steady post spacing to stay tight. |
| Hardware cloth, 1/2-inch | Seedlings and young rabbits | Heavier and pricier; use it low to save cost. |
| Metal T-posts | Quick installs and straight runs | Corners and gates need extra strength. |
| Wood posts | Sturdy corners and gate frames | Set deep and keep soil from holding water at the base. |
| Buried skirt | Neat look along lawns | More digging; tough in rocky ground. |
| Outward apron | Rocky soil or fast builds | Pin it well so it stays flat. |
Another trusted extension reference points out that a 2-foot fence with 1-inch mesh and a tight or buried bottom can block most cottontail rabbits. Penn State Extension shares those practical fence basics on their page about cottontail rabbits and garden protection.
Fit The Fence To Slopes And Uneven Ground
Uneven ground is where rabbits slip in. On a slope, a straight top line can leave scalloped gaps under the mesh. The fix is simple: follow the ground with the bottom edge, not the top. Set posts so the mesh can dip with the soil, then add staples where it wants to float.
If the grade changes a lot, step the fence in short sections. Run one panel level for a few feet, then drop the next panel down and overlap the wire at the step. Tie the overlap tight so the seam stays closed. For small dips, lay a flat stone or a short board along the bottom on the outside face, then staple the mesh against it. This also helps near patios, edging blocks, and raised-bed corners where soil pulls away.
Quick Checks That Keep Rabbits From Finding A New Entry
Once the fence is up, maintenance is light. The trick is catching small problems before they turn into a hole. In spring and after storms too.
Look For Fresh Scrapes
Fresh dirt at the base means digging started. Add staples or rocks right there, then press the wire down again. A rabbit that fails at one spot often stops trying.
Trim Weeds Along The Wire
Thick growth can lift the mesh and hide gaps. Keep a narrow strip clear so you can see the bottom edge and keep it in contact with soil.
Recheck Fasteners After Mowing
String trimmers can nick zip ties and clips. If a section feels loose, swap fasteners and pull it snug again.
One-Page Build Checklist
- Pick height: 24–30 inches, taller if snow drifts pile up by the fence.
- Pick mesh: 1-inch welded wire; add 1/2-inch strip low if needed.
- Set corners, then line posts every 6–8 feet.
- Stop digging: bury 6–10 inches or bend a 10–12 inch outward apron.
- Tension and fasten the wire, with extra ties near the bottom.
- Overlap seams 6 inches and tie every 4–6 inches.
- Build a tight gate with a solid threshold and a pull-tight latch.
- Walk the line after rain and mowing to catch gaps early.
If you came here asking “how to make a rabbit proof garden fence?”, this checklist turns the job into a clear weekend project with fewer do-overs.