Plant arborvitae in early spring in full sun with well-drained soil, setting the root ball top slightly above ground level for best results.
Getting your arborvitae off to a strong start comes down to a handful of details: the season, the spot, and the hole you dig. Nail those three, and these evergreens settle in with little fuss. The most common failures—brown patches, leggy growth, or plants that simply decline—trace back to mistakes made on planting day. This guide covers the complete process, from choosing the right site to watering schedules and spacing guidance for popular varieties.
When and Where to Plant Arborvitae
Early spring is the preferred planting window, since cool temperatures and spring rain give roots time to establish before summer heat arrives. Early fall works in some regions, but late-planted shrubs face a harder first winter. Full sun produces the densest, healthiest growth; while arborvitae tolerate partial shade, you’ll likely see sparse, leggy branching. Aim for at least 6 hours of direct sun daily. Well-drained soil is non-negotiable—arborvitae hate soggy roots. If your soil drains slowly, loosen the area thoroughly or use a raised bed. For compact types, check our roundup of the best small arborvitae shrubs for tight spaces before digging.
How Deep and Wide to Dig the Hole
Arborvitae roots stay shallow, so the hole matters more than you might think. Dig it 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball itself—or slightly shallower. That width loosens soil so roots can spread without fighting compaction. Depth is where people go wrong: planting too deep buries the root flare and invites rot. Set the root ball top at or slightly above soil grade. A narrow hole is a common mistake—if it barely fits the root ball, the sides become a wall roots struggle to penetrate.
Spacing, Watering, and Mulch Basics
Spacing depends on cultivar, ranging from 2 to 10 feet at maturity. For a dense hedge, plant 3 to 4 feet apart; larger growers like ‘Green Giant’ need 5 to 6 feet between plants. Check the mature width of your variety before digging.
| Factor | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Planting season | Early spring preferred; early fall acceptable in some regions |
| Sunlight | Full sun (6+ hours daily); partial shade causes sparse growth |
| Soil | Well-drained; avoid soggy or waterlogged sites |
| Hole width | 2 to 3 times wider than root ball |
| Hole depth | Equal to root ball height or slightly shallower |
| Planting depth | Root ball top at or slightly above soil grade |
| Spacing | 2-10 feet by cultivar; 3-4 feet for hedges, 5-6 feet for ‘Green Giant’ |
| Mulch | 2-3 inches, kept away from the trunk |
Water thoroughly after planting, then keep the root zone consistently moist—at least twice weekly during the first season. Deep watering beats frequent light sprinkling. Apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch, keeping it a few inches from the trunk; piled mulch traps moisture and invites rot or pests.
Step-By-Step Planting Instructions
- Loosen the soil in the planting area to improve drainage and root penetration.
- Dig the hole 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball, and only as deep as needed for the root flare to sit slightly above grade.
- Slide the plant from its container. If roots are circling, gently loosen them with your fingers.
- Set the shrub upright, checking that the root ball top is level with or just above the surrounding soil.
- Backfill with native soil, tamping lightly or watering to settle—avoid heavy compaction.
- Water thoroughly to remove air pockets and settle the soil.
- Add mulch 2 to 3 inches deep, keeping it clear of the trunk.
- Water regularly—at least twice weekly—until established.
If you can’t plant immediately, keep the root ball watered and store the plant out of direct sun and away from heat-absorbing surfaces like concrete driveways.
Common Planting Mistakes
Most arborvitae problems trace back to avoidable errors. Shade-heavy locations produce thin growth; poorly drained soil drowns roots; planting too deep buries the root flare. Container-grown plants sometimes arrive root-bound—if you see circling roots, loosen them gently before planting; skipping this can stunt the shrub for years.
Oregon State University’s extension service covers the essentials of planting and caring for arborvitae hedges, and the Arbor Day Foundation offers guidance on keeping arborvitae healthy through every season.
FAQs
How long does it take for arborvitae to establish?
Most arborvitae take one to two full growing seasons to establish a root system that can survive on its own. During that period, consistent deep watering matters most. After establishment, they become notably more drought-tolerant.
Can you plant arborvitae in the summer?
Summer planting is risky but possible if you stay on top of watering. Heat stresses new shrubs, and even a few missed waterings can cause permanent damage. If you must plant in summer, choose a cooler stretch, water deeply at planting, and water every few days until fall.
How close to a fence can I plant arborvitae?
Give arborvitae room to reach full mature width without rubbing the fence. For most varieties, plant at least 3 to 4 feet from the fence line. Dwarf cultivars can go closer, but always check the expected mature spread of your variety.
References & Sources
- Oregon State University Extension. “How to Plant and Care for Arborvitae Hedges.” Covers planting depth, hole size, and hedge spacing recommendations.
- Arbor Day Foundation. “How to Care for an Arborvitae.” Details watering, mulching, and long-term maintenance practices.
- Proven Winners. “How to Plant Arborvitae.” Provides general planting guidance for container-grown shrubs.
