How to Plant Evergreen Shrubs | The Right Depth Is Everything

For the full breakdown, see our best Short Evergreen Shrubs guide.

Getting evergreen shrubs into the ground correctly is mostly about avoiding a few common mistakes rather than performing complicated tricks. The two errors that kill more new plantings than anything else are digging a hole too deep and burying the stem. Get those two things right, and you are most of the way there.

This guide covers the essentials: timing, hole preparation, planting depth, watering, and the mistakes to avoid so your shrubs establish strong roots and stay green for years.

Spring and early fall are the standout seasons for planting evergreens. The cooler weather and natural rainfall give roots time to establish before summer heat or winter freeze arrives.

Exact windows vary by region and plant type. Iowa State University Extension notes that evergreen plants like pine and spruce can go in the ground from mid-August through September. The NYBG Mertz Library suggests early spring between March 1 and April 15, or mid-August through October 1 once growth has settled and the ground is workable.

Broadleaf evergreens such as boxwood, holly, and mountain laurel can be more sensitive to transplant timing. Many extension sources lean toward spring planting for these, though early fall works if you keep up with consistent watering. Avoid planting during extreme heat or when the soil is frozen or soggy.

How to Prepare the Site and Dig the Hole

Clear the planting area of weeds, turf, mulch, and debris before you dig. This gives the shrub a clean start without competition for water and nutrients from the start.

Dig the hole two to three times wider than the root ball or container, but no deeper than the root ball itself. This wide, shallow shape is what university extension guidance consistently recommends.

A common mistake is digging a deep hole to “loosen” the soil below, but that excess depth causes the shrub to sink over time. That leaves the crown buried, which promotes rot and poor establishment. Keep the hole depth matching the root ball, not exceeding it.

The Step-by-Step Planting Process

Once the hole is ready, the planting process itself follows a clear sequence that sets the shrub up for success:

1. Remove the shrub from its container. If it came balled-and-burlapped, cut or peel away the wrapping material so roots can grow outward into the surrounding soil.
2. Tease apart circling or tightly packed roots with your fingers. This step matters more than people realize—roots that stay wrapped in a circle keep growing in a circle instead of anchoring the plant.
3. Set the shrub in the hole so the top of the root ball sits level with or slightly above the surrounding grade. The stem and crown should never be buried.
4. Backfill with native soil. Some nursery guides suggest mixing in compost or organic material, particularly for poor soils. The key is treating amendments as soil-dependent rather than universal; Colorado State University Extension notes clay soils improve with coarse organic material, and sandy soils benefit from amendments that hold moisture. Skip fertilizer at planting time unless you are certain it is needed.
5. Firm the soil gently around the root ball to remove air pockets. Do not stomp it down hard, which can compact the soil and restrict root growth.
6. Water thoroughly right after planting. Create a shallow basin or berm around the shrub to hold water near the root zone during establishment.

Finish with a layer of organic mulch around the planting area, but keep it pulled back from the trunk or stems. Mulch piled against the bark holds moisture against the wood and invites rot. Keep it a few inches away from the stem and you get the weed-suppressing, moisture-retaining benefits without the risk.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Knowing what to avoid is as useful as knowing the right steps. These are the missteps that cause most failed plantings:

• Planting too deep. Burying the stem or crown is the fastest way to rot a healthy shrub. The root ball top should sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil.
• Digging a hole deeper than the root ball. Excess depth makes the shrub settle below grade, which brings the same rot problems.
• Skipping the root-loosening step. Circling roots never break out of their pattern, which keeps the plant from establishing a stable root system.
• Allowing the plant to dry out before planting or during the establishment period. Keep the root zone evenly moist, not waterlogged.

For most evergreen shrubs in good soil, spring or early fall planting with a wide, shallow hole and level crown is the winning formula. If you are planning a new bed and want options that stay compact as they mature, our roundup of the best short evergreen shrubs covers varieties that fit smaller spaces without constant pruning.