To plant seed potatoes in a garden, chit, space 30–37 cm apart, set 7–13 cm deep, then hill and water until vines die back.
Want a bed full of reliable spuds? This guide shows the exact prep, spacing, depth, and care that home growers use to get a steady crop. You’ll see timing by soil temperature, the right way to cut seed pieces, and the simple routine that keeps tubers covered and clean.
Planting Specs At A Glance
Use this quick table for spacing, depth, and row width by type. Values match common home-garden recommendations and keep plants easy to tend.
| Type | In-Row Spacing & Row Width | Planting Depth |
|---|---|---|
| First/Second Earlies | 30 cm apart; rows 60 cm | 7–13 cm |
| Maincrop | 37 cm apart; rows 75 cm | 7–13 cm |
| Container Growing | 1 tuber per 30 cm pot | Just below surface, then top up |
Soil, Bed Prep, And Timing
Soil Texture And pH
Loose, well-drained soil helps roots run and tubers size up. A slightly acidic range near pH 6.0–6.5 works well. Where scab has been a headache, aim lower, around pH 5.0–5.8, and skip fresh manure in that bed.
When The Ground Is Ready
Plant once the top layer holds 7–10 °C (45–50 °F) on a string of mild days. Cold, wet ground slows sprouting and can rot cut pieces. In cool regions, that often lands in spring; warmer spots run earlier.
Fertilizer Basics
Before planting, rake in a balanced garden blend such as 10-10-10 at 1–2 lb per 9 m² (100 ft²). Side-dress with light nitrogen during early growth when you do the second hill. Skip any “weed and feed” mixes.
Choosing Seed Tubers That Perform
Start with certified, disease-free seed tubers from a reputable supplier. Grocery spuds can carry issues and may be treated to stay dormant. Pick earlies for quick meals, or maincrop for storage. If late blight often shows up where you live, look for varieties with tolerance and keep an eye on regional alerts.
Planting Seed Potatoes In Garden Beds: Step-By-Step
1) Chit For A Head Start
Set tubers in a cool, bright spot two to four weeks ahead. Face the “eyes” up. Short, stubby sprouts make sturdy starts and shave days off maturity for early types.
2) Cut Large Tubers, Then Heal
Whole egg-sized tubers can go in as is. Larger ones can be cut into 3 cm pieces with two or three eyes each. Use a clean knife and board. Let the cut faces dry at room temp for a few days so a corky layer forms.
3) Lay The Row
Open a trench about 15 cm deep. Place pieces cut-side down along the base at the spacing in the table. Backfill to leave 2–3 cm of soil above the tops. Water the row to settle soil around the seed pieces.
4) Keep Tubers Covered
As shoots hit 20–25 cm tall, pull soil up around stems to form a low ridge. Do this again once or twice, ending with 20–30 cm of raised soil. This blocks light, shields against late frosts, and encourages more stolons.
Want a deeper read on the method? See the RHS advice on earthing up, which matches the steps above.
5) Water On A Rhythm
Soak the bed as growth ramps up, then give steady moisture through tuber bulking. Aim for about 2.5 cm of water per week, more in sandy soil. Use a trowel check: if moisture only reaches a few centimeters, keep watering.
6) Feed Lightly During Early Growth
Side-dress with a small dose of nitrogen when you do the second hill. Keep granules off stems and leaves, then water in. Overfeeding late in the season pushes leaves, not tubers.
7) Weed, Then Let The Canopy Take Over
Hoe shallowly in the first month to slice young weeds. Once foliage thickens, shade does the rest. The hilled ridge also slows new weeds.
Container And Small-Space Methods
Use a 30 cm wide pot or a sturdy grow bag with drainage holes. Start with 15 cm of peat-free mix, set one tuber just below the surface, then add mix around stems in stages until near the rim. Water often, since pots dry fast on sunny days. Early types suit this setup because plants stay compact and finish sooner.
Irrigation, Mulch, And Heat Management
Steady moisture keeps skins smooth and reduces hollow centers. Drip lines or a soaker hose make it easy to deliver water at the base. A 5–8 cm layer of straw or shredded leaves lowers evaporation and keeps soil friable. In a hot spell, water early morning; wilting at noon can still happen in bright sun, but plants bounce back by evening if roots are moist.
Pests, Diseases, And Clean Practices
Rotation
Shift the patch every three to four years away from beds that held tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, or tomatillos. Many issues overwinter in soil and cull piles.
Late Blight Watch
During cool, wet spells, watch for water-soaked leaf spots that spread fast. Remove infected foliage, keep leaves dry with morning watering, and follow regional alerts. For science-based maps and ID tips, check USABlight disease alerts.
Other Common Problems
- Scab: Corky patches on skins. Lower pH in future beds and avoid fresh manure.
- Colorado Potato Beetle: Hand-pick eggs and larvae; rotate and cover young plants with mesh until flowering.
- Cutworms: If stems get clipped at soil line, add collars or keep mulch pulled back until plants toughen.
Watering And Feeding Schedule
Stick to deep, infrequent watering that wets soil 15–25 cm down. In sand, split the weekly quota into two sessions. Feed only when plants ask for it: a modest side-dress during early hilling is plenty for most beds. Leafy surge with little tuber growth means nutrients are overshooting the mark.
Harvest, Curing, And Storage
New Potatoes
Seven to eight weeks after planting, dig beside a plant and feel for egg-sized tubers. Take a few and close the soil so the plant keeps producing.
Main Harvest
For a full pull, wait until vines yellow and dry down. Loosen the ridge with a fork set at least 30 cm from the stem, lift, and gather tubers by hand. Sort any cut tubers to eat first.
Curing And Storage
Dry tubers for a few hours out of direct sun, brush off loose soil, then cure in a ventilated spot at 16–18 °C for 10 days. Store in the dark at 0–4 °C with high humidity. Keep fryer-bound spuds closer to 4–10 °C to avoid sweetening that browns in the pan.
Variety Choice For Meals And Timing
Starchy russets bake and mash well. Waxy sorts hold shape in salads and stews. All-purpose types like ‘Yukon Gold’ sit between those groups. Early lines finish fast for “new” meals; long-season types fill the pantry.
Troubleshooting In One Page
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix That Works |
|---|---|---|
| Green Patches On Tubers | Light exposure on shallow spuds | Hill higher; discard deeply green ones |
| Scabby Skins | pH too high; fresh manure | Use a lower-pH bed next season |
| Hollow Centers | Uneven moisture during bulking | Keep a steady weekly soak |
| Plants Collapse Fast | Late blight | Remove infected growth; watch alerts |
| Stems Chewed Off | Cutworms | Use collars; pull mulch back |
| Tiny Yield | Shade or tight spacing | Give full sun; follow the table |
Raised Beds, No-Dig Rows, And Bags
Raised beds warm fast and drain well, which speeds emergence. In a no-dig setup, plant shallow and mulch thick with compost; harvesting is easy by hand. Grow bags shine on patios: use a stout fabric bag, feed lightly, and water often.
Quick Safety And Quality Notes
- Only plant certified seed tubers; many diseases ride in on saved or store tubers.
- Keep tubers in darkness; green skin signals solanine and tastes bitter.
- Avoid “weed and feed” products anywhere near food beds.
- Keep cull piles emptied so pests and diseases don’t linger.
Your First Season Plan
Week 0–2
Order certified seed, pick a sunny bed, and check pH. Start chitting if you want an early lift.
Week 2–4
Loosen soil, rake in fertilizer, lay trenches, and plant at the spacing in the table.
Week 4–8
Weed shallowly, water deeply, and make the first hill when stems reach mid-calf.
Week 8–12
Second hill, light side-dress, steady watering. Start tasting “new” spuds once tubers hit egg size.
Week 12+
Watch for blight periods, keep the ridge tall, then harvest as vines fade. Cure and store by the notes above.
Why Spacing And Depth Matter
Close spacing gives many small tubers; wider spacing gives fewer but larger ones. Depth near 7–13 cm shields seed pieces and speeds emergence. In dry spring soil, plant a bit deeper; in cold, wet soil, stay shallow.
Row width leaves room for the ridge you’ll pull during hilling. The ridge shades young stolons, holds irrigation over roots, and makes harvest cleaner.
Regional Timing Cheat Sheet
Plant by soil warmth, not dates. A probe thermometer tells you when the top 5 cm holds near 7–10 °C for several days. Cool regions hit that in mid-spring; mild coasts run earlier; high valleys often wait until late spring.
Small Gear Checklist
- Soil thermometer.
- Sharp knife and board for clean seed cuts.
- Sturdy hoe for shallow weeding and hilling.
- Soaker hose or drip line for steady moisture.
Cutting And Handling Seed Pieces
Seed pieces bruise most at cut edges. Gentle handling keeps the healing layer intact and lowers rot risk. Air-dry in a single layer. If sprouts form, avoid bumping them off.
Containers: Dialing In Water And Feed
Pots need frequent water. During bulking, check daily. Feel 5 cm down; if the mix feels dry, water until it runs from the base. Mix a slow-release fert into the blend or use a dilute liquid feed every couple of weeks. Stop near bloom so energy goes to tubers.