How to Plant Trees and Shrubs? | Set Them Up To Thrive

For the full breakdown, see our best Shrubs And Trees guide.

The current best practice for how to plant trees and shrubs comes down to a single idea: treat the hole as a landing pad, not a bathtub. Extension services agree on the same steps, so you are getting guidance field-tested by professionals, not one gardener’s opinion.

It comes down to placement, soil, and water.

Prepare The Root System Before Digging

Check the plant’s roots before the hole is even started. University of Maryland Extension advises inspecting roots and removing any that are dead, broken, circling, or twisted.

How you handle the roots depends on the stock type:

• Container-grown: Slide it out and rough up the outer root mass so the roots grow outward. Untangle or cut any that have started circling the pot’s wall.
• Bare-root: Soak the roots in water for about 30 minutes before planting, per RHS guidance, to rehydrate them and prevent drying during the procedure.
• Balled-and-burlapped: Leave the wrap on until the tree is positioned, then remove any twine and fold back or remove the fabric so it does not girdle the trunk.

Once the roots are ready, find the root flare — the spot where the trunk widens and the first main lateral roots begin. It must sit at or slightly above ground level after planting.

Dig The Hole Wide, Never Deep

Dig the hole no deeper than the root ball’s height. The root flare needs to sit at its natural grade, so skip the extra-depth step people used to take. In compacted soil, go wider — University of Maryland Extension recommends an area about 3 times the root ball’s diameter, and 3 to 5 times as wide in compacted sites.

RHS guidance has a target for the width: at least 3 times the root ball’s diameter. On dense, compacted soil, both sources push toward the wider end of that range. The sides of the hole should be somewhat rough, not slick, since glazed walls can deflect roots sideways.

When planting, you may need to create a small mound in the bottom center of the hole to support the root structure so the plant sits at the correct height. Spread the roots out over this mound rather than bending them to fit a hole that is too shallow. Use the native soil you removed from the hole for backfill.

Adding fertilizer, compost, or peat to the backfill is no longer recommended. Extension services advise leaving the soil as-is so the roots grow outward into the surrounding ground instead of circling inside a rich “pot.”

Water, Mulch, And Staking That Actually Helps

Backfill with native soil, firming it gently to remove air pockets — but do not pack it down hard. Stop when the hole is full, then water deeply. This settles the soil and eliminates air pockets.

After planting, water regularly to help the plant establish.

Apply a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base to hold moisture and suppress weeds. Keep it back a few inches from the trunk itself. A mulch volcano piled against the bark traps moisture against the wood and promotes rot and pests.

Stake only when the plant is top-heavy or in an exposed, windy site. If you stake, leave the supports on for one growing season at most. Most small trees need no staking at all.

Fall and early spring, when the tree is dormant, are the best times to plant.

FAQs

Should I put anything in the hole before planting?

No. Use only the native soil you removed from the hole for backfill. Skip fertilizer, compost, and soil amendments unless a soil test shows a specific deficiency. Fresh amendments can burn roots and discourage them from spreading into the surrounding soil.

How do I know if I planted the tree too deep?

Look for the root flare — the widened section where the trunk meets the roots. It should be visible at the soil surface after planting. If you cannot see it, gently scrape away soil from the trunk until the flare is exposed. A buried flare invites rot and prevents oxygen from reaching the roots.

How often should I water a newly planted tree?

Water deeply right after planting, then about 1½ inches per week until established. Check the soil moisture a few inches down and adjust for rain. Overwatering can reduce oxygen to the roots and cause root rot, so the soil should be moist but never saturated.

Getting planting depth right is the difference between a tree that thrives and one that slowly declines.