How To Remove Metal Garden Edging | Clean Pull Method

Removing steel or aluminum bed borders isn’t complicated, but a smart sequence saves time, protects roots, and keeps the edging straight for reuse. This guide walks you through prep, safe extraction, and neat site repair so your beds, paths, or lawn edges end up tidy and ready for the next upgrade.

Quick Gear And Setup

Gather tools before you touch the border. You’ll move faster and avoid bending panels. You’ll need a flat spade, trenching shovel, sturdy pry bar, locking pliers, a mallet, and a wood block. Add a reciprocating saw or hacksaw for seized pins or stakes. Wear cut-resistant gloves and eye protection—raw steel edges and buried debris can be sharp.

Edging Type	How It’s Anchored	Removal Clues
Steel with Attached Stakes	Built-in tabs or legs driven into soil; sections often overlap with a pin or sleeve	Locate each stake line; wiggle panels to feel stake points; detach overlap at joints first
Steel or Aluminum with Loop Stakes	Separate spikes pass through factory loops along the base	Find each spike by tapping along the base; pull spikes, then lift panel
L-Flange Under Pavers or Sod	Horizontal foot under hardscape or turf holding the vertical face tight	Lift the paver course or peel back sod strip to free the foot before extraction

Locate Joints, Stakes, And Utilities

Start with a slow inspection pass. Follow the top lip with your hand to find where sections meet. Most metal borders join with a pin, a slide-in sleeve, or interlocking tabs. Mark each joint with a flag. Next, probe along the base with a flat screwdriver or a thin weeder to feel for spikes or built-in legs. Space can be every 18–36 inches on many systems, and closer at curves.

If you’ll be digging deeper than a shallow slice—say the border sits near lines to irrigation, gas, or cable—use your local utility locate service first. In the U.S., dial the free 811 locate center a few days ahead so marked lines guide where you hand dig and pry. The markings help prevent strikes near the edge run.

Open A Release Trench

Metal edges bind because soil packs against both faces. A narrow trench breaks that grip:

1. Score the turf line with a flat spade on the lawn side. Keep the spade vertical to avoid scalping grass.
2. On the bed side, slice 2–3 inches away from the metal. Work the spade straight down, then rock back to create a slim gap.
3. If roots pin the border, slide a pruning saw into the gap and cut only those roots pressing the steel—leave the rest intact.

This release gap lets stakes wiggle free without bending the strip into waves.

Free The Joints First

Panels come out cleaner when you break the chain at joins. Many aluminum and steel systems connect by sliding one end into another with a small overlap and then pinning. Manufacturer guides describe this setup for installation, which you can reverse during removal. See the stake-through-loop details in the Permaloc installation instructions—those loops and overlaps you see in the trench are the same points you’ll undo now.

1. Brush soil away at each joint until you can view the overlap or sleeve.
2. Tap the joint lightly with a mallet and wood block to break mud bonds.
3. If a locking pin is present and corroded, grip with locking pliers and twist. If it won’t budge, cut it with a reciprocating saw or hacksaw and plan to replace it later.

Pull Spikes Or Attached Stakes

Once joints are free, work one section at a time:

1. Loop-type spikes: Slide a thin pry bar under the spike head with a wood block under the fulcrum. Pry steadily to lift the spike straight up. For stubborn spikes, clamp with locking pliers and twist a few turns to free rust, then pull.
2. Built-in legs: Rock the panel front-to-back to loosen the legs, then lift while a helper pries under the base. If a leg won’t release, dig a small pocket around it and pull straight up.
3. Seized hardware: If a spike head snaps or a leg stays stuck, cut the metal fastener off flush, then dig it out after the panel is clear.

Stakes at curves often hold harder. Work from the straight run toward the bend so the curve relaxes gradually.

Lift Panels Without Warping

With stakes out, the strip should slide upward with a smooth pull. Keep it flat to avoid kinks:

• Slide the pry bar tip under the base, set a wood block as a fulcrum, and lift in small bites along the length.
• For long runs, add a second person to support the free end so it doesn’t bend.
• If the strip has an L-foot tucked under pavers or sod, peel back that surface for a clean exit rather than forcing the foot through packed soil.

Taking Out Steel Bed Borders — Safe Steps That Save Time

This is the practical sequence many pros follow when removing metal lawn edging:

1. Walk the run and mark joints and spike lines.
2. Call your locate center if digging deeper than a surface slice; in the U.S. that’s the 811 service.
3. Open a narrow trench on the bed side and a slit on the turf side.
4. Expose and undo joints so each panel becomes independent.
5. Pull spikes or free built-in legs section by section.
6. Lift panels with a pry-and-support rhythm to prevent waves.
7. Stack straight panels on cardboard to avoid scratches if you’ll reuse them.
8. Rake, backfill, and tamp the edge line for a safe, even finish.

Curve, Corner, And Grade Workarounds

Tight curves. Spikes sit closer here. Expect more anchor points and slower progress. Loosen every other spike first to relax the curve, then finish the rest.

Inside corners. Many systems notch the base to form corners. Joints near corners pack with fines; flood with water to soften the soil, then pry.

Raised vs. flush. If the top lip sits proud of turf, extraction is simple. If it’s flush, the lip may sit under thatch—cut a clean slit so the lip doesn’t tear grass as it lifts.

Protect Plants, Roots, And Hardscape

Mulch and roots creep into every gap. Save what you can:

• Lay a tarp on the bed side. Soil you shave off drops on the tarp and goes right back in later.
• Slice only roots that bind the strip. Angle the blade down and away from trunks.
• Where pavers meet the metal, remove the first course along the edge so the base foot clears without chips.

Cleaning, Storage, And Reuse

Once panels are out, scrape soil with a putty knife, then brush with a stiff nylon brush. Surface rust on plain steel can be wire-brushed and treated with a rust-inhibiting primer if you plan to reinstall elsewhere. Aluminum pieces usually need only a wash. Nest sections by height and strap them together for transport so edges don’t dent.

Disposal And Recycling

Metal borders rarely belong in the trash. Most scrap yards accept steel and aluminum strips, and many offer a small payout by weight. Check your local rules; some centers want mixed items to be more than half metal. See an overview of drop-off practices from a typical recycler’s guidance on scrap metal preparation. If curbside bulk pickup is your only route, bundle strips with taped ends so workers aren’t exposed to sharp edges.

Site Repair And Next-Step Options

Backfilling the trench is the final polish. Use the soil on your tarp to refill in lifts. Tamp each lift with the wood block so the lawn edge won’t settle. If you’re switching to a different border, keep this trench narrow; most new products will reuse it with minor shaping. For a border-free look, feather the lawn edge with a half-moon edger and topdress the seam with compost, then water to knit roots.

Common Snags And Simple Fixes

Snag	What You’ll See	Fix
Frozen Or Water-logged Soil	Spikes won’t pull; panel flexes	Wait for drier ground; warm the line in sun; pry in small bites
Seized Pins Or Sleeves	Joints won’t slide apart	Expose full overlap; twist with locking pliers; cut and replace hardware
Hidden Utility Nearby	Paint marks or flags across the run	Hand dig only near marks; use shallow prying until the line is visible
Bent Lip During Lift	Waves or kinks form mid-panel	Support the free end; pry in 12–18 inch steps; straighten gently on a flat surface
Roots Locked To Base	Panel moves but springs back	Saw roots in the release trench; lift again while a helper holds tension
L-Foot Trapped Under Pavers	Panel won’t rise even with spikes out	Lift the first paver course; free the foot; reset pavers after backfill

Why The Sequence Matters

Good removal is about control. Opening a slim trench breaks suction. Undoing joints first stops the tug-of-war between panels. Freeing spikes before you lift keeps the strip straight so you can reuse it. Working in order also means less turf damage and fewer surprises along the bed line.

When A Pro Helps

Call in help if the border runs beside a gas meter, near a main electrical feed, or under thick roots of mature trees. A landscaper with a stake puller, narrow trenching tools, and experience around utilities will finish the job quickly and safely. They’ll also cart the scrap, which can make sense for long runs.

FAQ-Style Clarity Without The FAQ Block

Can You Reuse Old Steel Or Aluminum Strips?

Yes—if you lift them without kinks and the coating is sound. Clean, prime any bare steel, and store panels flat. Replace damaged pins or sleeves when reinstalling.

What About Borders Set During Paver Work?

Expect an L-foot under the first course. Removing a single row of pavers creates the space needed to tilt and lift the strip. Re-set the course on fresh bedding sand after backfilling.

How Do You Find Every Spike?

Run a magnet along the base if heads are buried. You can also tap the lip; the dull thud often lines up with a hidden stake. On some systems, stakes are evenly spaced—installation sheets from brands like Permaloc show typical counts per section—so you can predict where the next one sits.

Safety Notes That Pay Off

Gloves and eyewear are non-negotiable around thin steel edges. Work with stable footing, and keep hands off the lift line while a helper pries. Where utilities may be present, an 811 ticket gives you marked lines and a window for safe hand digging. National safety pages outline hand-dig technique near marks; see this plain-language brief on safe hand digging for a clear refresher.

Simple Reinstall Prep

If new borders go in right away, leave the trench open and square. Rake the base flat, remove stones, and compact lightly so spikes don’t drift later. When you reinstall any aluminum or steel system, slide joints fully, keep a clean 2–3 inch overlap where designed, and drive stakes straight through the loops. That mirror image of removal produces straight lines that stay put.

Closing Advice

Work in sections, respect the joints, and give yourself that narrow release trench. With those habits, metal borders come out straight, the lawn edge heals fast, and you end up with clean panels ready for a second life—or a smooth trip to the recycler.