A worn washer or O-ring is the usual cause of a dripping outdoor tap; replacing these seals stops the leak fast.
Nothing wastes water like a slow drip on the patio. The good news: most outdoor spigots use simple, serviceable parts. With basic tools and a twenty-minute window, you can sort out a steady drip, a leak from the handle, or a spray around the spout threads. This guide walks you through fast diagnosis, the right parts, and clear steps to get the faucet back to a clean shut-off.
Quick Checks Before You Start
Confirm the leak location first. Water at the nose of the spout points to a flattened jumper washer or a pitted seat. Damp around the stem usually means the packing or O-ring is tired. Spray from the hose joint hints at a perished gasket in the hose connector. Pin down the symptom and you’ll save time at the bench.
| Where It Leaks | Likely Fault | What To Do |
|---|---|---|
| Drip from spout | Worn washer or damaged seat | Fit a new washer; reseat if pitted |
| Water under handle | Packing or O-ring degraded | Replace stem O-ring/packing; grease light |
| Spray at hose joint | Cracked or missing hose gasket | Swap hose washer; snug by hand |
| Leak at wall thread | No thread tape or loose fitting | Rewrap PTFE tape; tighten correctly |
| Drip only when running | Loose bonnet or stem wear | Nip bonnet; service stem parts |
Tools And Parts You’ll Need
Set out everything so the tap spends less time apart. You’ll need an adjustable wrench, a Phillips and flat screwdriver, PTFE thread tape, plumber’s grease, needle-nose pliers, and a utility knife. For parts, grab a selection pack of bibb washers, a couple of stem O-rings, and, if the seating surface looks grooved, a reseating tool. Many outdoor spigots use a 1/2-inch body with a 13 mm (1/2″) washer; some larger hose cocks take 3/4-inch bodies with 19 mm (3/4″) washers. O-ring sizes vary by brand.
Shutting Off Water Safely
Close the indoor stop valve before you open the body of the tap. If you’re unsure where that valve lives or how it turns, see the WaterSafe guide on turning off your water. Once shut, open the outside spigot to bleed pressure and drain the line. If a double check valve sits on the supply, give the line an extra moment to empty through the tap.
Fixing A Dripping Garden Tap — Step-By-Step
1) Remove Handle And Bonnet
Pop the cap, undo the handle screw, and lift the handle straight up. Loosen the bonnet nut with a wrench and spin it off by hand. The stem now slides out as one piece.
2) Inspect Washer And Seat
At the base of the stem sits the jumper washer, held by a small screw. If it’s hard, ridged, or split, replace it. Look down into the body to see the seating surface. If you spot grooves or pits, reface with a reseating tool until the edge is smooth and bright. Wipe out any grit.
3) Replace The Stem O-Ring
Leaks from the handle usually trace back to a weary O-ring. Slide the old ring off, clean the groove, and fit a fresh ring of the same diameter. A pea-sized dab of plumber’s grease on the ring helps the stem turn freely and guards the seal.
4) Reassemble The Body
Drop the stem back in. Thread the bonnet by hand, then snug it with the wrench. Don’t crank it hard; a gentle nip is plenty. Refit the handle and cap.
5) Address Hose-End Leaks
If water sprays where the hose meets the spout, replace the flat hose gasket inside the female hose coupling. Hand-tight is the goal. Pliers can distort the fitting and start a fresh leak.
Thread Tape And Joints That Stay Dry
Any time you remove a threaded spout or install a new bib, wrap PTFE tape on the male thread. Keep the wraps neat and pull the tape firm as you go. Wrap in the same direction the fitting tightens so the tape doesn’t bunch. Two to three turns usually does the job on brass-to-brass joints.
When The Seat Is Beyond Saving
If the seat keeps cutting fresh washers, the body may be finished. Some bodies accept a removable seat that you can back out with a hex or seat wrench. If yours is fixed and deeply grooved, replacing the whole tap is the cleanest answer. Choose a model with integrated anti-frost design if winters bite where you live.
Water Waste Math (And Why A Small Drip Matters)
A single drip per second stacks up to thousands of gallons across a year. The EPA’s WaterSense program pins that rate at over 3,000 gallons. See the agency’s page on Fix a Leak Week for leak-hunting tips and water-saving ideas that pair well with this repair.
Care Tips So The Drip Stays Gone
Turn Off Gently
Grip the handle with two fingers and stop at firm contact. Over-tightening flattens the washer and shortens its life.
Bleed Pressure Before Frost
Before the first hard freeze, close the indoor isolation valve feeding the garden line. Open the outside spigot to drain any trapped water. A simple step that keeps the body from splitting.
Keep Spare Seals Handy
Store a small box with washers, O-rings, and hose gaskets near your tools. Label the sizes that fit your setup so the next swap is even smoother.
Use Food-Grade Grease
A thin smear on moving parts each spring helps the stem turn freely and keeps the packing from tearing.
Flush Grit After Work
With the spout open, crack the indoor valve for a second to flush any filings or grit left in the body. Close the spout, then reopen the indoor valve fully. This tiny rinse keeps the fresh washer and seat from scuffing on first close.
Troubleshooting Odd Cases
Handle Turns But Water Won’t Stop
The stem thread could be stripped or the jumper screw may have fallen out. Pull the stem, check the threads, and refit the washer with a new screw and a dab of thread-locking compound. If the stem is worn, replace it as a set with the bonnet if spares are available.
Tap Leaks With Handle Fully Open
Look for a cracked body or a split spout, often from past freezing. No seal can fix a crack in the casting. Swap the entire unit and refresh the thread tape at the wall elbow.
Water Backs Into The House Line
Garden hoses can create backflow risk, especially when the hose end sits in a bucket or pond. Fit a double check valve on the feed if the setup lacks one, and keep hose ends out of standing water.
Parts And Sizes Cheat Sheet
| Part | Typical Size | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Jumper washer | 13 mm (1/2″); some 19 mm (3/4″) | Match stem style; keep a small mixed pack |
| Stem O-ring | Varies by brand | Match the groove; take old ring to the shop |
| Hose gasket | 3/4″ garden hose standard | Flat rubber or fibre; replace yearly |
| PTFE thread tape | 12–19 mm wide | Wrap in tightening direction |
| Bonnet packing | PTFE string or ring | Only if your stem uses packing |
| Seat insert | Brand specific | Only on bodies with removable seats |
Method, Safety, And Clean-Up Notes
Protect The Wall
Slip a towel behind the spout so tools don’t scuff brick or render. A shallow tray catches the last drops as you pull the stem.
Mind The Tape Direction
Right-hand threads tighten clockwise, so wrap tape the same way. Keep the first thread bare so the tape doesn’t shred during assembly.
Test Before You Pack Up
Open the indoor stop valve, then close the outside spigot. If the nose stays dry and the handle seals, you’re done. If you see a weep at the bonnet, nip it a fraction. Still dripping at the spout? Swap the washer again and recheck the seat.
When To Call A Pro
Ring a licensed plumber if the stop valve won’t close, the supply line has no isolation, the body is cracked in the wall, or you see signs of backflow device failure. For installs, many regions expect a double check valve on outside supplies; product listings from bodies like WRAS help you pick compliant gear.
Printable Step Card
1) Shut water inside. 2) Open the spout to drain. 3) Remove handle and bonnet. 4) Replace washer and stem O-ring. 5) Reseat if needed. 6) Reassemble. 7) Wrap threads neatly if you disturbed them. 8) Turn water on and test.
Washer Styles, Seats, And Stems
Two parts make the seal: the rubber washer on the stem and the metal seat inside the body. Plain washers sit flat; some stems carry a small jumper that lets the washer swivel for a tidy close. If the seat has grooves, each turn can shave the rubber edge and bring the drip back. A quick reseat brings back a clean edge so the new washer lasts.
Time And Cost Benchmarks
A washer swap runs about ten minutes once the water is off. Add five minutes for a stem O-ring and another five for a light reseat. Parts are pocket money: a mixed washer pack, two O-rings, and PTFE tape. A reseating tool is a one-time buy that pays for itself the first time a pitted seat appears.
Common Mistakes To Avoid
- Over-tightening the handle, which flattens the washer.
- Wrapping tape on hose unions; those seal with a flat gasket.
- Grinding the seat too deep; remove just enough to clear pits.
- Skipping the pressure bleed after closing the stop valve.
- Fitting a dry O-ring; a tiny smear of grease helps it slide.