How to Sharpen Drill Bits? | Three Methods That Work

The instant a drill bit starts to squeal and push instead of cut, it’s costing you time and wrecking your workpieces. Tossing worn bits and buying new ones adds up fast — a quality HSS bit can be sharpened dozens of times before it needs replacing. This article covers three reliable ways to sharpen drill bits, which tools you actually need, and the mistakes that ruin a bit in seconds.

Is It Worth Sharpening Drill Bits?

Yes, sharpening extends the life of a high-speed steel bit almost indefinitely. A bench grinder pays for itself after sharpening a dozen bits, while a dedicated tool like the Drill Doctor handles high volume with zero guesswork. Bits with chipped cutting edges can usually be saved. Bits with cracked shanks or completely snapped tips are the only ones that need to be trashed.

What You Need To Get Started

Bench Grinder

The tool rest should be set to a 60-degree angle, and the guard must be less than 1/8 inch from the wheel to prevent the bit from catching.

Drill Bit Sharpener

Specialized sharpeners like the Drill Doctor 750X automatically hold the correct angle. The 750X handles various bit sizes and types, making it the top-rated model for US homeowners. The Tormek DBS-22 offers even higher precision with adjustable point and clearance angles.

Auxiliary Tools

• Marker or chalk to mark the cutting edges for alignment.
• Protractor or angle gauge to set the 60-degree angle on the grinder rest.
• Lubricant (water or cutting oil) to prevent overheating.
• Drill bit gauge to check symmetry after grinding.
• Safety goggles and gloves to protect against sparks and sharp edges.

If a bit is too damaged to save or you require specialized sizes for tough applications, our guide to the best drill bits for hardened steel covers the top replacements for demanding jobs.

Bench Grinder Method (The Hands-On Approach)

This is the traditional method that works for all standard HSS bits and gives you full control over every edge.

1. Clean the bit with a cloth to remove dirt and debris. Inspect for cracks or chips.
2. Set the bench grinder rest to 60 degrees.
3. Hold the bit at the correct angle and apply gentle pressure against the wheel. Sweep the bit left and right to grind the primary bevel, ensuring the entire wing contacts the wheel.
4. Rotate the bit slightly over time to maintain a horizontal working edge as the wing tapers back.
5. Repeat on the opposite side, counting your passes to keep both edges symmetrical.
6. Form the secondary bevel (relief angle) by tilting the shank down 10–15 degrees and grinding until the new edge meets the opposite side squarely.
7. Polish the cutting edge with a fine abrasive to reduce friction.
8. Test the bit on scrap wood or metal. A properly sharpened bit should dig in cleanly without wandering.

What Is The Best Drill Bit Sharpener For Homeowners?

For anyone who sharpens bits regularly, a dedicated sharpener eliminates the guesswork of angles and pressure. It handles standard HSS bits, masonry bits, and split-point bits with consistent results in about 30 seconds per bit.

Both options are faster and more consistent than a bench grinder, though they cost more upfront.

How To Sharpen Carbide-Tipped And Specialty Bits

Carbide is extremely hard and brittle. A standard silicon carbide wheel will chip it instead of sharpening it. You must use a diamond grinding wheel to cut the tungsten carbide cleanly without generating heat that cracks the tip. Apply a finer diamond wheel for the final pass to polish the edge.

For bits larger than 1/2 inch, a bench grinder is often the only option, as many compact sharpeners don’t accept them. Soft or crazy bits (like Forstner bits) can be sharpened with a fine file. Always check the manufacturer’s recommendation for specialty bit materials before grinding.

What Mistakes Ruin A Drill Bit During Sharpening?

Even experienced DIYers make these errors, but they are easy to avoid once you know what to watch for.

• Sweeping too far back: Accidentally nicking the opposite cutting edge destroys the bit’s geometry. Stop the sweep before the wheel reaches the other side.
• Overheating: Grinding without lubricant creates heat that softens the steel, causing blue discoloration and rapid wear. Dip the bit in water every 2–3 seconds.
• Uneven edges: Asymmetrical cutting edges cause the bit to wobble and drill oversized holes. Count your passes on each side to maintain balance.
• Removing the chisel point: The chisel point provides stability when starting a hole. Leave about 0.5–1 mm of the point intact.
• Wrong angle: Standard bits require 60 degrees. Specialty bits may need different angles. Verify with the bit’s original specifications or a drill bit gauge.

Final Checklist For Getting A Sharp Bit Every Time

1. Put on safety goggles and gloves before starting.
2. Clean the bit flutes and inspect for cracks.
3. Set the grinder rest to 60 degrees.
4. Grind the primary bevel on both sides, counting your passes.
5. Tilt the shank down 10–15 degrees for the secondary bevel.
6. Polish the cutting edge with a fine abrasive.
7. Test the sharpened bit on scrap material before use.