How to Trim Evergreen Shrubs | Keep Them Natural

Trimming an evergreen shrub comes down to one rule you can’t break: never cut into bare, old wood. Most evergreens won’t regrow from that point, and you’ll stare at a dead zone for years. The right way to trim evergreen shrubs is selective pruning back to a live branch or bud, not shearing the whole plant into a ball. Start with the dead and damaged growth, then work branch by branch.

When Is the Best Time to Trim Evergreens?

Prune most evergreen shrubs in mid-spring, just before new growth begins and after the frost risk passes. MSU Extension points to this window as the sweet spot because cuts heal quickly once growth kicks in.

Two groups break the pattern:

• Pines get pruned at the candle stage—typically late May or early June in many regions—after the new candles elongate but before they stiffen.
• Broadleaved evergreens like rhododendrons and azaleas are often trimmed right after they finish flowering.

Skip late summer and fall pruning entirely. The Morton Arboretum warns that cuts made then can push tender new growth that won’t harden off before winter, leaving the shrub vulnerable to frost damage.

The Right Way to Make Each Cut

Follow the branch you want to remove all the way back into the center of the plant, then cut at its point of attachment or just above a lateral branch. This opens the interior to light and air instead of creating a dense shell with a hollow middle.

1. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased shoots first using clean hand pruners. Switch to loppers or a saw for thicker branches.
2. Cut back to a bud or branch that points where you want new growth to go—usually outward. This preserves the shrub’s natural form.
3. Thin crowded or crossing growth to improve airflow through the center. Open the interior rather than shearing the outside.
4. Stop above the green. Never prune deeper into an evergreen than where you can still see green growth showing on the stem.
5. Limit total removal to about one-third of the plant in a single season. Removing more stresses the shrub.

After you finish, mulch around the base and feed with a general-purpose or high-potassium fertilizer. The RHS notes that shrubs respond well to this aftercare following a pruning session.

Mistakes That Leave Permanent Damage

The most common error is cutting into bare old wood beyond the green foliage. On many needled evergreens, that cut will never regrow, leaving a visible dead patch for years. This is why the RHS and MSU both recommend selective branch pruning over shearing for most evergreens.

Use hand pruners, not hedge shears, when you’re shaping a shrub selectively. Keep tools clean and sharp—clean blades make cleaner cuts that heal faster, and wiping down hedge shears prevents gummy buildup. Wear gloves while you work.

For old, overgrown shrubs that have been neglected, standard shaping won’t fix the problem. These need renovation cuts in late winter or early spring before growth begins, and they take longer to recover. If you’re planning a new planting instead and want a compact evergreen that stays narrow, see our roundup of skinny evergreen shrubs for tight spaces.

Timing by Evergreen Type

Not every evergreen follows the same clock. Here’s the breakdown by plant group:

• Needled evergreens that need selective pruning: late winter or early spring is the standard recommendation.
• Broadleaved evergreens (rhododendrons, hollies): prune right after the spring bloom finishes.
• Pines: prune only at the candle stage in late May or early June, and never remove the terminal buds in spring.
• Scale or awl-leaved evergreens (junipers, arborvitae): avoid shearing or cutting back into older, non-leafy areas—it may take years for new growth to cover the cuts.

When in doubt, prune less. You can always take more off next year; you can’t put growth back on a branch you cut too deep.