How to Use a Door Hinge Template | Mortise Prep in 6 Steps

Guide / By

Using a door hinge template means clamping the jig to the door edge, setting the router bit depth to the hinge leaf’s thickness, and routing the recess before squaring corners with a chisel.

For the full breakdown, see our best Door and Jamb Hinge Template Kit guide.

Hanging a door that closes flush depends on hinge mortises cut to the right depth, and a door hinge template turns that job from freehand guesswork into a router-guided cut. These jigs clamp or tack onto the door edge at marked hinge locations, letting a router with a guide bushing follow the template opening for a recess that matches the hinge leaf. The steps below follow the method shared across manufacturer instructions from Porter-Cable, RYOBI, Milwaukee, and Lee Valley.

Set Up the Template for Your Door and Hinge

Before any cutting, the template must match the door you’re working on. Measure the door’s thickness and set the template’s thickness screws or stops to that dimension — Milwaukee’s 49-54-0101 uses door thickness screws for this, and Lee Valley’s Carey system adjusts on the router base plate. Then measure the hinge length and set the hinge-length stop to match; RYOBI’s A99HT3 fits hinges from 3 in to 5 in, covering the common 3-1/2 in and 4 in interior-door sizes.

Confirm the template accepts your router’s guide bushing size before you commit. Most kits expect a specific bushing diameter, and mismatched parts produce a mortise that’s too large or too small.

Mark Locations and Secure the Template

Hinge placement follows the door, not the floor. Lee Valley’s Carey template instructions put the upper template 7 in down from the top and the lower one 11 in up from the bottom, spacing the middle template to match. RYOBI’s manual adds a framing-specific note: measure from the top of the frame and subtract 1/8 in when transferring locations.

With locations marked, fix the template in place. Porter-Cable’s 59370 uses included brads you tack through the template into the wood; Milwaukee’s jamb template uses six spring-loaded nails; other kits clamp. Whatever the method, a template that shifts mid-cut ruins the mortise. Test that it’s solid before powering up the router.

Set Router Depth and Rout the Recess

Router depth controls whether the hinge sits flush, proud, or sunken. Set the bit so it matches the hinge leaf thickness — Lee Valley’s method positions the hinge on the template and adjusts bit height until it’s flush with the leaf’s underside. Confirm the setting on a scrap piece if the kit provides a depth gauge; RYOBI’s gauge sits on the outer wall of the routing area.

Keep the template opening in mind: Lee Valley notes the opening runs 1/16 in larger per side than the hinge for router clearance, so depth matters more than the visible outline. Start with shallow passes and step down rather than plunging full depth — RYOBI’s manual recommends cutting small sections slowly, which reduces tear-out on the door edge. Test-fit the hinge after routing and deepen the cut if the leaf sits proud.

Square the Corners and Fit the Jamb

Most router bits cut a rounded radius into the mortise corners. If you’re installing square-corner hinges, chisel out the radiused corners so the leaf seats fully. A sharp chisel tapped vertically at each corner, then cleaned flat, finishes the job.

Copy the same process onto the jamb. Lee Valley’s system includes a method for transferring hinge distances to the doorjamb using the same template, and Milwaukee’s version is designed specifically for door and jamb butt hinges. Routing the jamb mortise with the same template settings keeps the hinge aligned across both halves.

Before buying a kit, verify it handles the hinges you’re installing — these templates are built for butt hinges on wooden doors and jambs, not surface-mount or specialty hardware. If you’re choosing between kits, our tested roundup of the best door and jamb hinge template kits compares the top options for interior and exterior work. You’ll get the whole job done faster with a system that matches your router and hinge sizes from the first cut.

FAQs

Do I need a special router bit for a hinge template?

You need a straight bit of a diameter the template accepts, plus a guide bushing that fits the template’s opening. Most kits specify the bushing size in their instructions, and using the matching parts keeps the mortise accurate.

Can a door hinge template work on any door thickness?

Most adjustable templates handle standard interior and exterior door thicknesses, but each kit has limits. Set the template’s thickness screws or stops to your measured door before routing, and check the manufacturer’s spec range if you work on non-standard doors.

Why are my hinge mortise corners rounded?

Router bits cut a radius, so rounded corners are normal. Square-corner hinges need those corners squared with a chisel after routing — many kits expect this cleanup step rather than producing a square cut.

References & Sources

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