How to Use Clippers to Groom Shih Tzu? | Step-by-Step Home Cut

A Shih Tzu’s double coat grows continuously, and professional grooming every six weeks adds up fast. Learning how to use clippers to groom Shih Tzu at home saves hundreds of dollars per year once you have the right tools and technique. The secret is preparation: a brushed, clean, dry coat, professional-grade A5 clippers with detachable blades, and the correct blade for each area of the body.

Work in the direction of hair growth, stretch the skin slightly to prevent uneven patches, and stop to oil the clipper blade every few minutes to keep it cool and sharp. The table below shows exactly which blade does what.

What Tools Do You Need to Groom a Shih Tzu?

Grooming a Shih Tzu at home requires more than just a clipper. You need the right blade system, brushes for prep, and scissors for finishing work. Professional-grade A5 clippers with a detachable blade system are essential — human clippers lack the motor power for a dense double coat and will overheat or tug.

Clippers and blades. A set of detachable blades in different sizes lets you switch between body clipping, paw work, and mat removal. Masterclip’s grooming guide recommends keeping a #10 or #30 blade on hand specifically for mats, since scissors near the skin can cause injury. For the body, a #5F blade gives a longer teddy bear look, while a #7F produces a shorter, neater finish.

Before buying, check our tested roundup of the best clippers for Shih Tzu to see which models from Andis, Wahl, and Oster match your budget and comfort level.

Brushes and combs. A slicker brush removes tangles with a gentle patting motion. A pin brush reaches both coat layers for daily brushing, and a long-toothed grooming comb catches hidden mats before they tighten against the skin.

Scissors. Bull-nose scissors handle the sensitive area around the eyes and muzzle. Curved scissors shape the tail into a U and round the paw outlines. Thinning shears blend harsh lines and remove the track marks a clipper can leave.

Shampoo and dryer. Use a gentle, residue-free shampoo and rinse thoroughly. A high-velocity dryer plus a heated stand dryer ensures the coat is bone-dry before clipping begins — damp hair clogs blades and tugs painfully.

How to Prepare Your Shih Tzu for Clipping

Preparation determines whether the clipping session goes smoothly or ends in frustration. Start with a thorough brushing session at least a day before the bath.

Brush first, then bathe. Bathing a matted coat only makes the tangles tighter. Use line brushing — work in small sections from the feet upward, parting the hair with one hand and brushing from the skin outward in the direction of growth. Remove every tangle before the bath.

Bathe and dry completely. Bathe every three to four weeks with lukewarm water and a gentle shampoo. Rinse thoroughly to avoid residue that leaves the coat dull and the skin itchy. Towel dry immediately with a fresh towel, then use a high-velocity blaster followed by a heated stand dryer while brushing. The coat must be 100% dry before any clipper touches it.

Using Clippers on a Shih Tzu: The Step Order That Works

Once the coat is clean, dry, and tangle-free, actual clipping follows a simple order that professionals have used for decades. Start just behind the skull and work toward the tail, clipping down the sides as you go. Always clip in the direction of hair growth — going against the grain creates uneven patches and can irritate the skin. Stretch the skin slightly with your free hand to create a flat surface, which prevents the clipper from skipping or nicking. Apply clipper oil every few minutes to keep friction low and the blade cool. Masterclip’s grooming guide emphasizes that mats should never be cut with scissors — instead, use a #10 or #30 blade to gently nibble underneath the mat, where the short blade rides safely against the skin.

Blade Selection Guide

Trimming Sensitive Areas Without Stress

The face, paws, tail, and sanitary areas require a slower pace and different tools than the body. Each area has its own technique, and rushing here is what causes most accidents.

Face. Use bull-nose scissors — the rounded tips reduce the risk of poking an eye or nose. Keep the fur above the eyes short enough that the dog can see clearly. Leave the ears long unless you are doing a full shave-down; on trimmed coats you can clear the ear opening with thinning shears.

Paws. Shave the pads clean with a #15–#40 blade. For the paw outline, a #7FC blade rounds the foot when you block it square first, then curve the corners with curved scissors.

Tail. Hold the tail level, comb the hair straight up, and trim a U shape with curved scissors. The result is a neat, rounded plume that matches the body length.

Sanitary area. Thin the hair under the tail and around the genitals with thinning shears — never use a blade here freehand unless you have experience, since the skin is loose and sensitive.

Common Grooming Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced home groomers hit the same trouble spots. Knowing them beforehand prevents a bad outcome.

How Often Should You Groom a Shih Tzu at Home?

A full home grooming session every six to eight weeks keeps the coat manageable and prevents mats from forming. Daily brushing with a pin brush reduces the prep time before each clip and keeps the coat healthy between sessions. If the coat becomes severely matted or you are unsure about any step — especially around the eyes, ears, or sanitary area — a professional groomer is the safer choice for that round. Once the coat is reset, you can resume home maintenance on the regular schedule.

Final Grooming Sequence Checklist

Here is the complete order in one place so you can reference it on grooming day:

1. Brush the entire coat with line brushing, removing all tangles.
2. Bathe with a gentle shampoo and rinse completely.
3. Dry thoroughly with a towel, then a high-velocity dryer, then a stand dryer while brushing.
4. Start clipping behind the skull, working to the tail and down the sides in the direction of growth.
5. Oil the blade every few minutes.
6. Remove any remaining mats with a #10 or #30 blade, nibbling underneath.
7. Trim the face with bull-nose scissors, keeping the fur short above the eyes.
8. Shave paw pads with a #15–#40 blade and round the foot outline.
9. Shape the tail into a U with curved scissors.
10. Blend track marks with thinning shears.
11. Finish with a brush — boar bristle for long coats, slicker for short.