Do Deer Eat Arborvitae? | Which Varieties Are Safe

That browning on the lower half isn’t a disease — it’s deer damage, and it’s the most common call landscapers get in the Northeast. The answer to whether deer eat arborvitae isn’t one yes or no for all varieties; some are a favorite winter food source while others are left alone entirely. This guide covers which arborvitae deer target, which varieties resist them, and the methods that actually stop the damage.

Which Arborvitae Varieties Do Deer Eat Most?

Deer strongly prefer Thuja occidentalis, the Eastern White Cedar family, which includes Emerald Green, Dark Green, and Pyramidalis. These are the arborvitae varieties you most often see with the tell-tale browse line — branches eaten as high as a deer can reach on its hind legs. Emerald Green is described as a favorite food source in fall and winter when other vegetation becomes scarce.

Arborvitae That Deer Avoid

Hybrids with Western redcedar parentage — Green Giant, Steeplechase, and Spring Grove — show high natural resistance. American Pillar, a columnar Thuja occidentalis with strongly aromatic foliage, is also rarely bothered. These varieties contain aromatic oils and somewhat pricklier foliage that deer find unappealing. No tree is 100% deer-proof; starving deer will eventually sample anything. But in normal conditions these varieties give you years of trouble-free growth.

Arborvitae Deer Resistance Comparison

How To Protect Arborvitae From Deer — Methods That Work

If you already have Emerald Green or another preferred variety planted, or if deer are desperate enough to try your Green Giant, you need active protection. The three approaches below are arranged from least to most labor, and each works best under different conditions.

Using Deer Repellent Spray

Repellents with egg-based compounds are the most effective spray option. The smell of rotten eggs signals danger to deer and keeps them moving past your arborvitae. Apply spray every four to eight weeks during fall and winter, and reapply immediately after rain or snow. A DIY mix of eggs, garlic powder, and water works in a pinch. The major limitation: sprays often lose all effectiveness in freezing temperatures, and winter is precisely when deer browse arborvitae most heavily.

For a full comparison of the repellents that hold up best through winter conditions, check our guide to the best deer repellent for arborvitae based on real testing.

Physical Barriers — Netting, Burlap, And Fencing

Netting or fencing is the only method that works 100% of the time. Install mesh or welded wire fencing at least five to six feet high and secure it to the ground — deer will push under a gap. A mesh size of 3/4 inch stops them from reaching through. For individual trees, wrap from the bottom up to about eight feet high. Burlap barriers work on windward sides, but never tightly wrap burlap around the plant itself; that traps moisture against the foliage and causes disease. Remove netting in spring so the tree can grow freely and so you can inspect for bagworm infestations, another common arborvitae pest treated with Sevin.

Davey’s blog on protecting arborvitae from deer details the specific timing and materials for successful netting installation.

Planting Alternatives That Deer Leave Alone

If deer pressure is heavy year after year, the most practical long-term decision is to stop planting arborvitae entirely — especially Thuja occidentalis varieties. Columnar spruce (Norway and Blue), boxwoods, holly bushes, and viburnum are rarely browsed and grow in similar site conditions. Norway spruce and Blue spruce stay narrow enough for privacy screens and don’t attract deer during rutting season, when bucks rub against arborvitae and shred bark even if they aren’t eating it.

Common Mistakes That Worsen Deer Damage

Three errors cause most of the failed protection stories you see online. Believing “deer resistant” on a tag means “deer proof” — Green Giant is resistant, but as Mike’s Backyard Nursery notes, it isn’t deer-proof, and desperate deer will eat it. Spraying repellent once and expecting it to last the full winter without reapplication. And tightly wrapping burlap around individual shrubs, which creates a moist environment that breeds fungal infections and ice damage. Remove barriers in spring, reapply repellent after every thaw, and never assume any arborvitae is safe without a back-up plan.

Problem And Fix Quick Reference

The Real Bottom Line On Deer And Arborvitae

The only variety you can plant without active protection in a deer-heavy area is Green Giant — and even then, you accept a small risk during hard winters. For Emerald Green and other Thuja occidentalis types, you either fence them before November or you accept browse damage. Deer eat arborvitae because it stays green and accessible when other food is gone; removing their access with a five-foot fence is the single step that always works. If fencing isn’t possible, an egg-based repellent reapplied monthly through winter is your next best option. No method is perfect, but the right variety choice plus one active protection layer turns a losing battle into a manageable one.